dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

OK so basic over view. Car is a D1 procharged 347 making 676 rwhp and 590 twtq. I have a MWC 9" rear, t-56, original stock master with 62k on it. And a Tex oz700. Here is my problem. When I launch the car hard clutch dump and 1.50 60's I get blocked out of 2nd gear like the clutch is not disengaging. If I launch the car easy and on the street the car shifts into 2nd with no problems. So I think that it is either the hydraulics or the clutch itself.

Now for some back ground I did not have this problem before I broke that trans about 2 months ago. I never touched the clutch when I took that trans out and I only had to re bleed the clutch. Also not that I did up the power level after fixing the trans from 630-676rwhp with a pulley change and went from a 26-28" tire.

Clutch has about 8k miles on it.

I think my issue is hydraulic more than anything and I was planning on getting a tick Master over the winter. I guess my issue is that I don't want to put a master in it. Then have clutch issues in the spring they have to buy another $1500 clutch when I could have spent the same about of money and switched to the dark side. Just not sure what I want to do

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

I don't think anyone can say for sure. It certainly sounds like a hydraulic issue. Have you done the drill mod? Was the slave replaced at the same time as the clutch (8K) ?

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

yes the slave was replaced when the clutch went it and drill mod has been done. Like I said had no shifting problems before I rebuilt the trans and had to re bleed the clutch . Also I have bleed the clutch multiple times since trans was reinstalled and have not corrected the issue.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

The OEM slave is just a PITA.. It can easily be damaged during a trans R&R, even new ones.. Again, all we can do is guess, but it sounds like something in the hydraulics.

What was done to the trans when it needed rebuilt? Were new synchros put in, or just damage repaired? It's possible the 2nd gear blocker ring is worn or was swapped with the 1st gear and has poor engagement. Check with the trans builder..

INTENESS

iTrader: (4)

I think your stock master is not able flow enough fluid for you to shift at high rps's from 1st to 2nd shift.Doubt it has anything to do with your clutch you can try and do the drill mod on your stock master till you pick up tick master.At your power level its not easy shifting the car been there,I threw in the towel and went auto.

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

When I rebuild the trans I had broken the 3-4 shift keys so it got all new blocker rings, 1-2 and 3-4 billet keys, and the bronze shifter guides. And gone over.

Also as I stated before if I don't launch hard it will shift fine into 2nd at 6800rpm no grinding no fighting me nothing.

It only blocks my 1-2 shift when I dump the clutch at 4k+ rpms.

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

^^^^^^^this is exactly what I was gonna say. What clutch are you running?

haighter

iTrader: (55)

Its not your clutch thats broke. It can be the hydrolics based on that you dont have enough release from the presure plate to the disk so the disk is dragging on them and making your trans work harder at slowing it down to go into gear. But that is also where it can be the syncho assy. If you broke the keys in 3/4 i would of checked the inner and outer sliders, and the 3 and 4 gears themselves. Is the trans grinding or just doesnt do jack. If its not doing jack then I would say it is your presure plate not releasing the disk. If the disk is being released then you need to have the trans gone over again. He needs to check the inner and outer sliders/synchros the synchros are made up of 5 parts. Inner outer sliders, keys, key retainers, and blocker rings. There blocker rings need to have a speciffic gap.

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

The Clutch is a Textraila 0z700 as mentioned in the first post.

Also Like I said before I don't think it is the trans. On the street and soft launch the car will take a hard 1-2 shift at 6800rpm.

It only blocks my shift when I launch the car hard.

And yes I broke my 3-4 keys and put new 3-4 syncro in and also put all new blocking rings in all gears and did billet shift keys for 1-2 also.

haighter

iTrader: (55)

Did you replace the gears themselves? The end of the teeth on the gear can get messed up so that the outer slider/synchro wont want to engage. Also did you get new keys or billet keys? With the new keys did you upgrade or replace the key snap rings/retainers?


Or your pressure plate is not being disengaged far enough to let the disk spin freely or the pilot bearing is going bad and making the input shaft spin with the crank making it hard to go in and out of gear at high rpms. Thats if your trans is set up and not the fault also.

speedsk899

Time for an auto!

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

haha yeah I have heard this from many people. I really want to get a 9 second slip shifting gears though.

I am not sure if I would want to do a th400 or a 4l80E I need to figure that out.

speedsk899

Well I would hate to spend a ton of money to get the manual problem fixed when you could spend the same to put in an auto..

Well decide if you want an over drive or not. From what I hear they are pretty much the same other wise. I am running a 400.....

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

Yeah I guess I need to figure out the cost difference and decide from there

speedsk899

For drag you definitely want the auto. I understand about trying to hit the times with the manual. I was the same way with my 99' FRC! I kept hitting 11.00 and could never get her to hit the 10.9. Then I sold it haha.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Have you talked with Tex ? You may be having secondary issues with the new power causing the pressure plate to stay slightly engaged during power/RPM shifts.. I've seen it before on some SC cars running the texas mile..

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

Not sure I just know it only does it on the 1-2 shift and only on a hard launch

haighter

iTrader: (55)

The tex cant have an issue like that as a clutch itself. The hydrolic can make the clutch do that though. Or the pilot or slave bearing. The clutch can be unbalanced and make it vibrate causing the pedal to go limp. But as long as it is not one of those the tex as a single disk cant do that.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

The pressure plate design can impact how the clutch reacts under power and during high-rpm shifts.

haighter

iTrader: (55)

True but not the Tex single as long as it's under 7k rpm.