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mcleod master cyl rebuild question

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Old 12-06-2009, 08:21 PM
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Default mcleod master cyl rebuild question

basically had some disengagement issues and took apart my lt1 cars mcleod master cyl and found one of the seals ripped, i honed the bore and managed to find a similar cup seal only thing different about it is its twice as thick.. i put it all back together in the car and cant get it to bleed at ALL. im wondering if i have the OTHER seal on backwards or if its just a problem with the new seal being twice as thick.





Old 12-06-2009, 08:22 PM
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edit, seal in question about orientation is in the last photo on the bottom, should the cup be facing the other direction?
Old 12-07-2009, 03:25 PM
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Default Willwood kit

That looks like a willwood kit #260-5921. Not the original mcleod.
I ended up using a 13/16" cup washer from napa because the
willwood kit leaked down real bad on mine.

Did you read this thread?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-cylinder.html

Pics in this post:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9073923-post47.html
Old 12-07-2009, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mondi2002
That looks like a willwood kit #260-5921. Not the original mcleod.
I ended up using a 13/16" cup washer from napa because the
willwood kit leaked down real bad on mine.

Did you read this thread?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-cylinder.html

Pics in this post:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9073923-post47.html

uh that stuff that came out of mine is brand new from summit racing...

anyways, i put that thing back together today with the non-spring end seal the oposite way, aparently i had it in the correct direction. CRAP.

wtf does it mean then? is my spring end seal being twice as thick the problem?

Last edited by I_Need_Land; 12-07-2009 at 06:18 PM.
Old 12-07-2009, 07:57 PM
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well i took the master apart AGAIN and installed it exactly as shown in my photo and the photo you provided and i cannot get this thing to do ANYTHING at all. i start by letting the slave be installed against the fork, the master cyl is loose against firewall so the rod is full extended, i fill reservoir, stick the mity vac nipple in the reservoir hole and pull vacuum, pinch the mity vac line at the nipple and slowly pull it out so the reservoir feeds the clutch lines instead of pulling in the just sucked out air. after this, all it does is pull fluid from the line going to the master. i cant get it to do ANYTHING else. i know the slave has fluid in it cuz i can get under the car and pump it and feel / hear the fluid/air mix, but its not going anywhere, i can even pump the pedal with the slave off the fork and it wont pop it out.
what the hell am i doing wrong. could that twice as thick seal be causing all this?
Old 12-08-2009, 06:57 PM
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Get a Mcleoud rebuild kit...only sure way to be sure all the parts are right. In the mean time...stop driving it as all the grinding/engaugement issues can lead to tranny damage. The bigger seal coud def. be blocking fluid travel. Is there any fluid leaking under the car anywhere....lines covered....ground under the car, etc. After it sits, just when driving?
The only things that have changed since the last time it was running is the clutch and master correct? What master was in it before stock or this one?
Old 12-08-2009, 10:49 PM
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i drove it to work one day and it started moving at stop lights when i got the car into 1st gear and i was like wtf... got home that night and it was a hell of a ride because the pedal was literally a 1 inch on off switch at the bottom of the floor.

anyways, im gonna try and have mcleod send me an new master under warranty or something, i put this one in what 4 weeks ago? with the street twin clutch because its necessary. there is no fluid leaking anywhere, i have had the master and slave and hydraulic line completely off the car at least 4 times in the past week. previously installed unit was the stock slave and stock master and spec 4 clutch, along with the old engine setup etc last year. this is all a new setup - engine , flywheel, clutch, master, slave, line, etc. it was driving fine for the past few weeks of putting around waiting on the dyno and then as me and david were leaving the dyno i noticed the pedal acted funny and had to be pumped as if it was bypassing fluid internally. next day is when i tried to drive it to work and it went batshit on me.
Old 12-09-2009, 04:41 AM
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Those masters are know to me shitty, and do things like this....
Old 12-09-2009, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris05ssTruck
Those masters are know to me shitty, and do things like this....
well aware. is the tick master the same bore size as this, supposedly i need this master with this clutch setup.
Old 12-09-2009, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by I_Need_Land
uh that stuff that came out of mine is brand new from summit racing...

anyways, i put that thing back together today with the non-spring end seal the oposite way, aparently i had it in the correct direction. CRAP.

wtf does it mean then? is my spring end seal being twice as thick the problem?
Sorry didnt relize it was the new design. Thet are supposed to be better.
(unless summit sent you an older one) You could return it to them also.
Mine is an older LS1 Unit.
Old 12-09-2009, 08:12 PM
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Man....the Tick is the ****, tons better than ANY master out there. Best mod for a 6sp. car period!



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