XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Im going to get my car dynoed on the 19th and Im fairly confident my stock clutch will go out. Luckily for me, I have had a Textralia OZ700 sitting in my garage for a couple months! This is my first clutch install/tranny pull ever but Ill have some people over to help out, I just want this to be as smooth as possible. Heres my list of **** to get:

Pilot bearing
Pilot bushing
Slave cylinder w/TO bearing
rear main seal set(gasket and seal)
flywheel bolts

Anything else??

Also whats the break in procedure on a Textralia clutch? Do I do stop and go driving for about 500 miles, and when will I know its broken in?

Thanks!

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

You only need the pilot bearing, no need for the pilot bushing. Some people do replace the bearing with a bushing, but I don't see any need to - there are many that use the bearing.

Also, unless your main seal is leaking, I would not mess with it...more trouble than it would be worth. I agree on changing the slave/throw out assembly. You will also need a bottle of DOT3 brake fluid to bleed the hydraulic system.

I would also make sure you have long extensions for your ratchets, and also swivel sockets to fit the bellhousing bolts. That alone will save you a ton of time. Also, use a puller to remove the old pilot bearing. Don't use the old "stuff with wet tissue" trick. You'll f-up an oil plug that is inside the crankshaft that way. A good trick is to hit the old bearing with some electrical "freeze spray", then use the puller to yank it out.

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-F.../dp/B000Z99ZCA

TDP

iTrader: (23)

Get the pilot bearing, most local parts stores sell in under part number L381. It is very common as it fits the Gen 1 small blocks and LT1s as well. Runs about $18.
The slaves are all made by AP, whether you get it from a GM dealer, Oreilleys, Autozone, Napa, Advance, etc etc.
I usually get them from Autozone as they come with a lifetime warranty, part number 13207. Runs about $75-80

I also get the rear main seal kits from Autozone as they carry the Fel Pro kit. Includes a rear cover gasket and seal for about $25. Remove the 12 bolts holding the rear engine cover on, pull it off, then replace the seal. It helps a LOT to heat it up with a heat gun near by the seal. Otherwise it can be a real pain to get the seal out.

Honestly, I wouldn't worry about replacing the flywheel bolts. They are not torque-to-yield like the head bolts. So you can re-use them with no problem.

I recommend the Dot3/4 Valvoline synthetic brake fluid & its only $7 per quart. You will need this to flush out your old hydraulic clutch fluid and bleed the system.

02SLPCAMARO23

yea your missing the beer! lol

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Lots of good stuff already mentioned...I'll add a couple of things:

Tools - rent a slide hammer and pilot bearing puller to remove the pilot bearing. If you get the typical pilot bearing removal tool, it will need to be modified to work since our pilot bearings are a bit on the small side. You'll need to remove one of the arms - this can be done by removing the pin that holds it in place. With one arm removed (a sledge hammer and a punch work wonders since the pin is a press-fit), stick the tool with the one arm remaining into the pilot bearing, and then slip the removed arm into place right next to it. Put the pin you removed back in place to reattach the arm to the tool - I used a c-clamp to press the pin back into place since you'll be doing this with the tool sticking out of the back of the block. Attach slide hammer, grab a pair, and knock that bitch out.

As mentioned, long extensions work wonders when getting to the transmission bolts. It'll be an absolute necessity to reach the top ones - although I don't remember how long my line of extensions was when I pulled my transmission a couple weeks ago, I'd guesstimate that it was around 2-3 feet worth of extension.

The transmission comes out first - the exhaust will probably need to be dropped to get it out of the way. Keep this in mind since people usually forget that the input shaft has to clear the clutch and bell housing before it can actually be lowered out of the way.

That leaves the bell housing - in order to reach the top bolts on that one, you WILL need a swivel joint. The heads are 13mm (the transmission bolt heads are 15mm).

If you don't have a pry bar of some sort, get one - you might need it to pry both the transmission and bell housing away.

Do yourself a favor and buy a flywheel holding tool - you can probably find one at your local auto parts store. I ordered one from Jegs, and it paid for itself the first time I swapped a clutch.

Supplies:

Red + blue loctite (the last time I bought some, they had a gel kind that worked great) - I used red loctite on the slave -> transmission bolts, as well as the flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

RTV for when you reinstall the shifter (yes, it will need to be removed as well)

Anti-seize - often overlooked, but you should apply some anti-seize compound to the dowels that locate the bell housing to the engine block as well as the dowels that locate the transmission to the bell housing. This will make removing the bell housing and transmission MUCH easier if you need to get back in there at a later date.

Transmission fluid - I always drain the transmission when removing it to keep from making a huge mess. With the driveshaft out, it will come pouring out the back if you tip it that direction.

Brake cleaner - get a ****-ton of this miracle of modern chemistry. Use it to clean up all the **** that you will find once you get into the bell housing. Also use it to make sure that all of the friction surfaces (flywheel, pressure plate, and the friction disks) have absolutely NO oil on them when you install the new stuff.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Oh...forgot to mention: if you've ever even THOUGHT about adding a remote bleeder to the slave cylinder, this would be the absolute best time to do so since you need full access to the slave cylinder to do this properly. Just something else to think about - they aren't super cheap, but it was one of the best investments I've made since it made bleeding the clutch hydraulics so much easier.

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

If it helps at all, this is an 00 WS6 that should be at close to 600 at the crank with 20* timing and 10psi for now.

TDP, I just saw your site and noticed you have some damn good prices on rebuilds. Can you quote me a price on a rebuild that can hold, lets say, 800hp at the crank? Im assuming that would be stage 3. Im guessing Ill also have to ship my tranny down or can you add a core charge and Ill ship my tranny down when I get the rebuild?

I didnt think the rear main would need replaced yet, but its 18$ for the seal and gasket so I think its cheap insurance. Is there any reason I shouldnt use Royal Purple tranny fluid? I bought oil for my car and everyone told me RP sucks for engine oil in LS motors. lol.

Thanks for all the info guys!

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

A while back, there seemed to be some bad press with Royal Purple in the transmission too...if I remember correctly, it was something to the effect that if it was used in the transmission, Tremec would not honor any warranty claims - apparently, they disliked it that much.

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Well ****. Mobil 1 then?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I've used that with success in the past, and it is easy to source.

jimmyb496

Who sells the good, correct remote bleeders? Looking for one before the weekend.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

I believe the issue with Royal Purple or Mobil 1 is not so much the brand, but it's because they are synthetic. Your 2000 Trans Am like mine came from the factory with paper lined blockers instead of carbon fiber and filled with straight Dexron III. Supposedly they will wear faster with sythentic lubricant. I'm sure TDP can chime in on that better than I can. I agree with the others on the pilot bearing. I replaced mine at 41k miles and the stock needle bearing was dry as a bone and already started wearing through the needle cage. I scrapped it for an old fashioned bronze bushing.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Tick

http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...aulics/#master

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

I was looking at a remote bleeder but I have people coming over so we should be ok.

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Is this part number ok? NAPA#BRG B657.

Says its heavy duty, lol

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

It's ok if you want to go back with the same piece that came with the car. After I saw the condition of my roller bearing after 40k miles, I didn't want to put another one back in. I'm not sure how they intended for that bearing to last since it runs dry the last 1/2 of it's life and is exposed to one nasty *** environment. I went with a $3 bronze pilot bearing instead. If you want the stock GM roller bearing again. Thunder Racing has one for $5 less than the Napa piece. p/n 20-14061685

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Part wouldnt make it here before Sunday so NAPA and Schucks is all I really have. Its closer to 15$ since I get a discount there, so money isnt really an issue.