LS T-56 throwout bearing question
01-19-2011, 03:14 AM
#1
Launching!
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LS T-56 throwout bearing question So #1 is the bleeder bolt.....and I'm assuming this is damn near impossible
to bleed while inside the vehicle. So I see there are remote bleeder lines you
can buy that you connect to the port, and I'm assuming the other end goes into the reservoir ??
Another question, if the only way to bleed this is while it's on the T-56, how do you keep the
throw out bearing from extending while bleeding it ??
I'm having a brain fart moment and can't think of where the other end of the remote bleeder
line goes permanently ?? Because if I disconnect it after bleeding I introduce air back into the system.
to bleed while inside the vehicle. So I see there are remote bleeder lines you
can buy that you connect to the port, and I'm assuming the other end goes into the reservoir ??
Another question, if the only way to bleed this is while it's on the T-56, how do you keep the
throw out bearing from extending while bleeding it ??
I'm having a brain fart moment and can't think of where the other end of the remote bleeder
line goes permanently ?? Because if I disconnect it after bleeding I introduce air back into the system.
Last edited by Aceshigh; 01-19-2011 at 04:15 AM.
01-19-2011, 07:30 AM
#2
The remote bleeder line gets routed and place wherever you want it. A lot of us route it up into the engine bay for easy access.
It does not go into the reservoir! The fluid coming out of it will be contaminated fluid and should not be re-used.
The remote line acts just like the standard bleeder..just in a remote location. So as long as you dont let the pedal return while the bleeder line is open, you wont introduce any air into the system. My bleeder has a speed bleeder on the end, so you just crack it and bleed...it lets fluid out, but nothing back in while its cracked.
You would only do the bleeding when the trans is installed onto the car. The reason the throw out doesnt extend, is there is no pressure build up while the bleeder is open. THe master cylinder just pushes the fluid. If there is no where for the fluid to go, it extends the throw out. If the bleeder is open, the fluid can go out that way.
If you are trying to bench bleed the system...there isnt a real easy way to do it. But you can secure the throw out bearing with zip ties, or some other rig if you need to. You would still have to do a regular bleed/flush after its all installed though.
That help?
J.
It does not go into the reservoir! The fluid coming out of it will be contaminated fluid and should not be re-used.
The remote line acts just like the standard bleeder..just in a remote location. So as long as you dont let the pedal return while the bleeder line is open, you wont introduce any air into the system. My bleeder has a speed bleeder on the end, so you just crack it and bleed...it lets fluid out, but nothing back in while its cracked.
You would only do the bleeding when the trans is installed onto the car. The reason the throw out doesnt extend, is there is no pressure build up while the bleeder is open. THe master cylinder just pushes the fluid. If there is no where for the fluid to go, it extends the throw out. If the bleeder is open, the fluid can go out that way.
If you are trying to bench bleed the system...there isnt a real easy way to do it. But you can secure the throw out bearing with zip ties, or some other rig if you need to. You would still have to do a regular bleed/flush after its all installed though.
That help?
J.
01-19-2011, 11:45 AM
#3
it's really not that hard to bleed once it's installed, it helps a lot to have a 1/4" breaker bar so you don't have to deal with a ratchet, but either way works
I've seen people cut a hole in the floor on the trans tunnel so they can crack the bleeder valve while sitting in the car, but most people don't want to do that to their cars hahah
I've seen people cut a hole in the floor on the trans tunnel so they can crack the bleeder valve while sitting in the car, but most people don't want to do that to their cars hahah
01-19-2011, 12:21 PM
#4
Its def not hard... I ended up making a tool that fit and was at a good angle to get the 1/8 turn on the bleeder that I needed.
But a remote bleeder is WAY quicker, cleaner, and easier. Especially if you "flush" the fluid as often as some people recommend. I bleed my fluid every oil change usually. Became a force of habit when I was having all my clutch issues.
Not having to jack the car up or put it on ramps is a huge help. putting the car up is easily the single biggest PITA to owning a lowered thirdgen haha.
J.
But a remote bleeder is WAY quicker, cleaner, and easier. Especially if you "flush" the fluid as often as some people recommend. I bleed my fluid every oil change usually. Became a force of habit when I was having all my clutch issues.
Not having to jack the car up or put it on ramps is a huge help. putting the car up is easily the single biggest PITA to owning a lowered thirdgen haha.
J.
01-19-2011, 05:29 PM
#5
Launching!
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1970 442......but this is strictly for the install, so I will buy that remote bleeder.
Yes, all the comments helped. Thanks.
I'm strongly considering the Weir Hot Rod Products bell housing kit for this install.
I'm just debating if the stock Hydraulic throw out bearing is worth keeping or getting his instead.
