Update on bleeding situation
08-31-2011, 10:12 PM
#21
I have extra slave cylinder laying around that I take apart so that I can use the female end of the quick connect fitting. I take that piece and add a clear hose to it. Now I setup the master the bench and clamp it down, then support the reservoir in the air with wire (or however you like), now I take the female connector and connect it together and loop the clear hose in the air (just like the reservoir) and dumping the end in the reservoir. Your simply looping the hydraulic system with a opening to let out air. Secure all the hoses. Now slowly pump the master while making sure not to run the reservoir dry and watch for bubbles. They will come out like crazy then slowly start to fad out. If you look closely you will see very tiny bubbles for awhile. Those will go away as long as you dont pump the rod to fast, just give them time to reach the end of the clear hose. Once your satisfied that theres no air in the lines, put the cap on your reservoir, disconnect the quick fitting and put it back on the car. Once on the car you notice a huge difference but there still might be air in the slave cylinder so you need to bleed it a couple of times and then you should be go to go. Hope this helps
The JMD method
09-01-2011, 08:29 AM
#22
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Well guys, after five days of trying to bleed this thing and trying every idea you guys gave me, I was at my wits end. I was about ready to call a shop, have this thing towed in, and get out the check book. It was the start of one of the worst hurricanes in Maryland history, pouring rain, the power went out, I'm sitting here in the dark, sulking by candle light when....EUREKA! I had this crazy idea!
I went out in the dark with a flashlight and adjusted the master cylinder so the pedal was 3/4" higher. I started the engine and the pedal was rock solid and shifted into each gear like butter. After the power came back on three days later I went out and buttoned it all back up and adjusted the pedal to be perfect and tightened the jam nuts.
Now I'm 100 miles into my break-in period and I'm loving my car again. Thank you to all of you guys for all of your help. You're absolutely right. If after trying to bench bleed (or just unhook the master from the slave, have a friend push the pedal while you push the connector open), and then bleed like normal, if you still don't have pedal pressure, and the master is not leaking down, then look elsewhere. You should notice a better pedal after 50 bleed cycles. If not, you should try to adjust, replace, examine, etc.
Thanks a lot guys.
The only issue I have now with my Monster stage 2 is that whenever I slip first gear it smells horrendous (like burnt clutch). I know I'm not supposed to slip it, but it's really difficult not to since it's such a jerking feeling when you pop the clutch properly.
Take care everyone.
I went out in the dark with a flashlight and adjusted the master cylinder so the pedal was 3/4" higher. I started the engine and the pedal was rock solid and shifted into each gear like butter. After the power came back on three days later I went out and buttoned it all back up and adjusted the pedal to be perfect and tightened the jam nuts.
Now I'm 100 miles into my break-in period and I'm loving my car again. Thank you to all of you guys for all of your help. You're absolutely right. If after trying to bench bleed (or just unhook the master from the slave, have a friend push the pedal while you push the connector open), and then bleed like normal, if you still don't have pedal pressure, and the master is not leaking down, then look elsewhere. You should notice a better pedal after 50 bleed cycles. If not, you should try to adjust, replace, examine, etc.
Thanks a lot guys.
The only issue I have now with my Monster stage 2 is that whenever I slip first gear it smells horrendous (like burnt clutch). I know I'm not supposed to slip it, but it's really difficult not to since it's such a jerking feeling when you pop the clutch properly.
Take care everyone.
