NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

2001 camaro ss M6, having a little issue with the clutch,

Ive tried reading all the other threads but can't seem to find what mine is doing. first off i have longtube headers, aftermarket act hd clutch, just put a new master/ slave cylinder in the car. i have bleed the clutch system for god knows how long. " pump clutch, hold it to the floor, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the pedal is that right?. just checking, also done the mity vack with 9mg( i think thats right) with no bubbles or nothing, but heres the probelm i have.

ill be drivin down the road all of a sudden when i push the clutch in to change gears, any rpms, the clutch pedel travels less than half way before the pedal gets stiff at all and at its worse is engages right off the floor board, and some times i can't get it to go in gear. but after is goes threw its little spell( after 5 mins or so) my clutch starts acting normal again, meaning i only have a little bit of play at the top of the pedel and the clutch engages about 1-2 inches from the top. i have bled the clutch plenty of times, changed the fluid. but today when i was heading to work the car had just got warmed up and i went to shift into 2nd gear and yet again the same thing happened, clutch pedel started to engage close to the floor and i had a lot of play in the pedel before the clutch even got stiff. i don't understand, and it just keeps pissing me off to the point to were iam about to drive the freaking thing into a tree. i have replace the slave, 2 master cylinder, clutch, and the told me my throw out bearing was fine. the car has 55,434 miles on it right now. i was told the steel braided line could be getting to hot becuase it's next to the headers, so i rapped it with a heat protectant and bled the clutch again worked fine for about 3 days and it started it again. it only does it on some does, not every day, any ideas before i pay some 1 to take the transmission out again and inspect the slave cylinder/throw out bearing / pilot???

ls1tafirehawk

Do you have the stock master on it

NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

i threw th stock 1 away and i went to advanced and bought one of there $90 master cylinders that have there. the 1st 1 we thought might have been bad, but its doing the same thing the first 1 did

NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

update on clutch issue. so on the way home to day it started to do it again clutch started engaging right off the floor board. so i pulled over and i bled the system while the clutch pedal had a lot of play in it. started down the road clutch pedal was fine. no more than 4 miles later it started to do it again. now i can pump the clutch to the point to were it gets firm a couple of times ( 12-15) and the clutch play gap gets bigger, other words it get closer to the floor, i saw now leaks from underneath the car and even when i got back to the house i saw nothing. but when i get on it, shifting around 4500rpms i then get the firmness back in the pedal. it makes no since and iam lost for words. any ideas will be great at this point.

"God please fix this car before i drive it into a river."

ls1tafirehawk

Upgrade to a tick performance master

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

You have a hydraulic issue of some kind. It is the only thing that could do what you are explaining. When you use the mighty-vac you need 12-15 mm/hg. Because you are seeing variable pedal air in the system is likely. But, because you are seeing a return of the issue after bleeding it is likely that you have a leak in the seals within the slave or master. I know you don't want to replace the slave and master again but this seems like what you will need to do. Let me know if you have any questions or if you need to order either part. I have both the stock slave and master assemblies and our adjustable version of the stock master on the shelf. Thanks!

NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

oh ok, but it was doing this same issue before we put a new master cylinder and a new slave cylinder in the vehicle. then about a month later it started acting up again after the new parts, the new parts went in about month 1/2 ago.

NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

so a buddy of mine suggest that i reverse bleed the system meaning, ive all ready bled to the master cylinder now i need to bleed the slave. told me to set the miny vack up to the bleeder, after i crack the bleeder build the pressure up and watch for some bubbles. hopefully that will work, today the car did not act up 1 time so i will keep u guys posted on this weird/strange situation.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you should bleed from the top and bottom of the system: bleeder off the slave and the reservoir. If your lines are not insulating the fluid or if you have a fluid with a BP that is too low it could happen with old and new hydraulic components. What fluid are you using? I recommend RBF 600 from Motul. It has easily withstood the heat generated on the toughest of track days when slowing from 145 on the back straight at Road Atlanta.

NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

i am using dot4, i was told not to use dot 5 because it will eat the seals up in the master and slave cylinder. but i will have to look into the motul, the car never goes to the track its my dd car, for now.

NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

well im at lost for words. when i start the car the clutch is fine but about 5 mins after driving my clutch starts to have A LOT a play in it. before it starts acting up the clutch engages like normal, close to the top, but after five mins or so of driving it starts engaging right at the bottom and some times the damn pedal gets stuck, causing me at times to lift it up with my foot. but here's the weird part. after 15 or so mins of driving it, the clutch does not act up at all, the only time it will act up is first thing in the morning( likes i explained above) or if i start off in second gear and run WOT till i hit 4th and then he clutch has a some play it, but then it returns to normal after about 20 secs or so. 1 of the mechanics around her said if you have replaced all the components, slave/master/new fluid, then that leads him to believe that there could be air in the line which is the result that sometimes the clutch works like crap. i understand that a clutch some times sticking to the floor means that u might have a bad slave and master cylinder, but it was doing this before i had it replaced. it did not do it for the first month or so and then all of a sudden it started doing it again. there is no fluid on the ground or around the trans area, nothing.

NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

can anybody explain how to reverse bleed the system?? i have tried hooking the mity vak to the bleeder after i have cracked it open and when i start to put pressure on it, it just starts pulling fluid from the slave and a lot of air bubble. and when i put pressure on it the other way, not sucking, but pushing, i fill like iam going to mess up the slave cause it has a lot of pressure and i am just thinking i might reverse the seals or something.

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

i feel for you man. Mine is going to the dealership this weekend and I"m letting them bleed my clutch hydraulics. I tried and still have alot of air and a squishy pedal. I hope somebody can help you figure yours out. good luck!

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Where are you located? Let me know and I will see what I can do about having one of our affiliated shops help you out with bleeding the system. Thanks!

NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

ok. so i started digging around in my building and i found 1 of my old spark plug wires, some 1 else make have come up with this idea already.

so i took 1 of my old spark plug wires and i tore it apart, i used the rubber boot that fits over the spark plug its self, and the white plastic insert thats on the other end of the spark plug wire its self. as seen in pic. i placed a plastic busing in the end of it and attached a rubber clear hose as well.
tools needed






i pressure tested the fitting before i went any further.

i then barely cracked the bleeder,
*put the rubber fitting on the bleeder, with pliers
* filled the clear hose up with dot 4
* and put the other end of the hose in the clutch reservoir ( under the hood)

The first deprerssion of the clutch pedal with in 3 secs i had a lot of bubbles come out. i repeated this process untill there was nothing but straight fluid.

Also FYI when u push the clutch down u do have to pull it back up to re-track the dot 4 fluid, so the reason for elevating the hose is so the air will rise so when u do pull it back it's not going to suck air.

i drove it down the road and the clutch fills great, but the real test will come in the morning when the fluid is cold and the air rises again if theirs any air, hopefully that fixed the problem but if not i guess the next step will be buying some more parts i guess, but i will keep u posted and if u guys have any idea's beside what i listed for possible problems please tell thanks.

NowlinX22

iTrader: (1)

problem is still there go figure, does anyone think that is could be the throwout bearing or pilot bearing? cause when the clutch is disengaged i get the faint clacking noise at times, which makes me think there might be grit or something on the throwout bearing causing it not to release all the way until the car is warm mabe, just wanted to ask before the transmission comes out again.

Out Of Focus

iTrader: (7)

My clutch wouldn't disengage the other day. It turned out to be the line from the master cylinder to slave cylinder. The line got clogged up.

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

after bleeding and using the mitivac I always had a light pedal feel. Took it to the dealership and had them bleed it. no luck my master was bypassing fluid and not holding. So master got replaced and was bleed again and perfect pedal now. Car drives awesome and shifts awesome again!

b4dd4y

Man im having the same problem, started this mourning on the way to work. Clutch went down and wouldn't come back up. I thought my floor mat had pushed it down. Unfortunatley my luck it wasn't that simple. So i pulled over, tried to kick the **** out of it and nothing happend, it was stuck or had zero pressure...

So i pulled it out of gear, went down there and pulled the clutch up with my hands. Thank god it came up because i was like sitting half way in the road... I pumped it several times and it went into gear and off i went. No problems for the remainder of the drive... Man im worried to drive this sucka home now, hmmmm should i take it in to the dealership and get raked over the coals... Man i hope you can get an answer it would greatly help me out as well =/

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

dealership only charges 100 to bleed it where I'm at so had them also completely bleed the brakes and abs as well while it was in there. Seeing as my master was out it cost me more. Nothing worse than driving a car with a messed up clutch. takes the fun completely out of it.