Slave cylinder R&R in my garage on jackstands, am i crazy?
11-11-2011, 10:16 PM
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Slave cylinder R&R in my garage on jackstands, am i crazy? So I need to replace the slave cylinder and I only have my garage and jackstands to do it with. Does the T56 in the LS1 have the modular bellhousing, and can if it does can i R&R the slave cylinder by just unbolting the tranny from the bellhousing or does the entire unit need to come out? For those of you who have done this on jackstands, should i hold of a few weeks till i can tow it down to Ft Knox and use their lifts?
11-12-2011, 11:10 AM
#6
My last clutch swap was done with jack stands and a Harbor Freight trans jack...it wasn't as nice as using a lift, but it got the job done, and I didn't have to work around the hours of an on-base auto hobby shop.
It isn't a hard swap, but it is time consuming...the biggest issue I run into is dropping the exhaust to clear the transmission. Once that is out of the way, it is really a matter of being able to reach all of the bolts, and a few well-placed extensions easily take care of that.
It isn't a hard swap, but it is time consuming...the biggest issue I run into is dropping the exhaust to clear the transmission. Once that is out of the way, it is really a matter of being able to reach all of the bolts, and a few well-placed extensions easily take care of that.
11-12-2011, 11:57 AM
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I did my clutch with just a floor jack, 4 cement blocks, and some extra hands fairly easily. When I got my rebuilt trans I bought a trans jack from Harbor Freight for like $70 and did it by myself much easier. If your just replacing the slave and you buy the trans jack you can just slide the trans back, replace the slave, then slide it back in place.
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11-12-2011, 02:26 PM
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Twins... so your saying the trans never really has to physically come out of the car? If I take the drive shaft out and unbolt the trans from the bellhousing, can i slide it back far enough to R&R the slave cylinder?
11-14-2011, 07:03 AM
#11
you have the remove the TA, and DS and maybe your Ypipe.
I tried doing this in the pits once with a alum jack, in the dark it sucked. The trans all the way back jammed above the Yipe you run out of room to get the slave off the imput shaft. I had to lower the trans a little to get it off. The imput shaft acorss form the hole in the Disk did not have room. Lower it alittle so the trans would go back more, and so it was in the bellhousing around the outside of the PP. I could get the slave off. Also had to disconnect the line. tried to leave it, becuse I just had to get the shim out form behind it, but whould have to undo it off the firewall. and pull it down.
I tried doing this in the pits once with a alum jack, in the dark it sucked. The trans all the way back jammed above the Yipe you run out of room to get the slave off the imput shaft. I had to lower the trans a little to get it off. The imput shaft acorss form the hole in the Disk did not have room. Lower it alittle so the trans would go back more, and so it was in the bellhousing around the outside of the PP. I could get the slave off. Also had to disconnect the line. tried to leave it, becuse I just had to get the shim out form behind it, but whould have to undo it off the firewall. and pull it down.
11-14-2011, 04:45 PM
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AHHHHHH!!!! Im about to give this over engineered piece of **** away! Ive never had this much trouble pulling a transmission in my life! First tried to leave the bellhousing on the engine,,, tranny wont budge... ok, lets take the bellhousing off to,,, no, still not going anywhere. I can get a bit of a gap to open up when i raise up on the tranny jack, tried to find the position for the jack where the input shaft wasn't bound up and still wont budge. tried prying at the witness hole on the bottom of the bellhousing, tried shaking it loose and pulling on the tailhousing, i usually love doing my own auto work (just swapped the tranny in my F350, basically a semi truck transmission and it was easier (and more confined) than this pos.... any tips?
11-14-2011, 05:25 PM
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i have all the bolts off the bellhousing to engine and tranny to bellhousing... i can get a small gap open around the bottom and i have some wood ships keeping it open, trying to work the tranny up and down to get a gap at the top to open but its jamming up on something. 8 bolts out of the back of the engine, checked countless times. maybe if i set it on fire....
11-15-2011, 11:44 PM
#17
Try bolting the bell housing back up, you don't need to take this off anyhow. It should make it easier to break the trans loose from the bell housing if the bell housing were secure. I just did this a couple of weeks ago. It took some good pressure to break the trans away from the bell housing. Also, put a piece of wood between the header collector and the subframe to keep the motor at the same angle for the reinstall. Good luck.
11-16-2011, 11:31 AM
#18
i've pulled and helped pull many a t56 from 4th gen fbodies. it sucks doing on the ground, but can be done fairly easily if you know what you are doing. if this is your first time doing so, be prepared to get frustrated. every time i've done it i have removed the bellhousing first. double check that you have all of the bolts removed from the trans and that everything behind it is removed, as well.
a friend of mine did an auto-m6 swap on his car and we pulled that ************ 4 times after the swap. the last time we had to replace the clutch/pp. using a lift, we completed the task in less than 45 minutes. the first clutch swap i did on my garage floor with an lt1/t56 setup took me 6 hours.
a friend of mine did an auto-m6 swap on his car and we pulled that ************ 4 times after the swap. the last time we had to replace the clutch/pp. using a lift, we completed the task in less than 45 minutes. the first clutch swap i did on my garage floor with an lt1/t56 setup took me 6 hours.
11-16-2011, 01:36 PM
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after 2 days of prying and triple checking that i have all the bolts removed, i hooked a ratchet strap to the tailshaft housing and the other end around the rear end, a few minutes of pulling at it and it popped off! both of the dowel pins were very rusty, probably the reason it was stuck. thanks for the tips guys!
