Difficulty Getting Any Gear w/ Tick Master
12-02-2011, 08:07 PM
#1
Difficulty Getting Any Gear w/ Tick Master Hello everyone. I am currently running a stock T56 transmission with a diamond stage 2 clutch/flywheel, and the tick master cylinder. I have run this particular set up for about a year now and have been extremely happy with it, however I have been slowly developing problems with what I think could be the hydraulic system.
About 2 months ago I was experience difficulty shifting/grinding when going into reverse, but did not seem to have any difficulty getting any other gears. Even 1st gear seemed normal... Anyways I bled the system (speed bleeder) and also adjusted out the MC just a few turns (maybe 2 or so) and my issue went away completely. Thought nothing of it and has been flawless until just recently.
Probably for about a week now I have noticed that first/reverse has been difficult to shift into (no grinding however), I attributed it to the cold weather as we have had a brash of unusually cool weather this past week or so (40 degrees at night). Well today on the way to work I noticed that 1st gear was even more difficult to shift into than it has been throughout the week... When I tried to park at work I could not get ANY gear at all, I had to push my car into a stall. Puzzled, I again bled my system through the speed bleeder and adjusted the MC arm one more turn. This alleviated the problem immediately for about 4-5 1st gear shifts. I drove a few blocks right after bleeding the system and again noticed that the shifting seemed normal and I had no problem getting any gear. Then all of a sudden I was back to the same problem, could not get 1st at all, had to drive back to the shop in 2nd.
Now I assume that since I am having trouble with all gears it is likely a hydraulic problem? Especially since it seems to go away after a fresh bleed. Now my question is how do I know if its the MC or if it is the slave?
Quick recap to make it easier...
1. Sudden difficulty shifting into all gears (when the engine is off transmission shifts smooth)
2. After bleeding the system the problem goes away temporarily
3. Already adjusted out the MC a few turns (it is now about even with the brake pedal)
4. I suspect a leak but the reservoir was still full this afternoon
5. Clutch pedal feel still seems to be firm ALTHOUGH there is some play at the top. I can jiggle the pedal maybe 1/2" at the very top of its play. (it has always been this way)
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am going out of town for the night but will hopefully have a chance to bleed the system again tomorrow afternoon to see if that does anything. In no way is this a bash on Tick's MC, just looking for a solution to a problem. Thanks everyone!
About 2 months ago I was experience difficulty shifting/grinding when going into reverse, but did not seem to have any difficulty getting any other gears. Even 1st gear seemed normal... Anyways I bled the system (speed bleeder) and also adjusted out the MC just a few turns (maybe 2 or so) and my issue went away completely. Thought nothing of it and has been flawless until just recently.
Probably for about a week now I have noticed that first/reverse has been difficult to shift into (no grinding however), I attributed it to the cold weather as we have had a brash of unusually cool weather this past week or so (40 degrees at night). Well today on the way to work I noticed that 1st gear was even more difficult to shift into than it has been throughout the week... When I tried to park at work I could not get ANY gear at all, I had to push my car into a stall. Puzzled, I again bled my system through the speed bleeder and adjusted the MC arm one more turn. This alleviated the problem immediately for about 4-5 1st gear shifts. I drove a few blocks right after bleeding the system and again noticed that the shifting seemed normal and I had no problem getting any gear. Then all of a sudden I was back to the same problem, could not get 1st at all, had to drive back to the shop in 2nd.
Now I assume that since I am having trouble with all gears it is likely a hydraulic problem? Especially since it seems to go away after a fresh bleed. Now my question is how do I know if its the MC or if it is the slave?
Quick recap to make it easier...
1. Sudden difficulty shifting into all gears (when the engine is off transmission shifts smooth)
2. After bleeding the system the problem goes away temporarily
3. Already adjusted out the MC a few turns (it is now about even with the brake pedal)
4. I suspect a leak but the reservoir was still full this afternoon
5. Clutch pedal feel still seems to be firm ALTHOUGH there is some play at the top. I can jiggle the pedal maybe 1/2" at the very top of its play. (it has always been this way)
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am going out of town for the night but will hopefully have a chance to bleed the system again tomorrow afternoon to see if that does anything. In no way is this a bash on Tick's MC, just looking for a solution to a problem. Thanks everyone!
12-04-2011, 01:09 PM
#5
jack the rear end up, start the car ( do this safely outside or something)
with the clutch in put it in 1st gear, and hold the rpm up. 3- 5K? (dont have the brakes on or anything to drag the back tires) holds to have another person look. The back tire should not turn at all, if they do the clutch is dragging.
with the clutch in put it in 1st gear, and hold the rpm up. 3- 5K? (dont have the brakes on or anything to drag the back tires) holds to have another person look. The back tire should not turn at all, if they do the clutch is dragging.
12-04-2011, 04:42 PM
#6
Hi everyone, thank you for the suggestions and replies. Okay I went ahead and did a full flush of the system, the fluid was actually dirtier than I thought. Looking in the reservoir is a little deceiving 
. But even at that, it wasn't THAT bad... probably could be described as a greenish color. It even looked clear while bleeding out through the clear tubing I was using, the color was really only noticeable when it collected into the water bottle I was using. Anyways, that is all bled now with clean fresh fluid.
After the flush I was still experiencing the same problems so I decided to start all over with my adjustment on the Tick MC. I adjusted the rod almost all the way down (rear end jacked) and adjusted the rod out turn by turn until I was able to get gears. To my surprise I was able to shift again! I did what studderin suggested and revved the motor with the clutch in and the tires off the ground, the tires moved just slightly. Went ahead and turned the MC rod one more time and retested per studderin's suggestion, the tires did not move at all this time. Now the problem seems to be alleviated but now i'm curious what would cause this all of a sudden? I drove around with my Tick MC adjusted the way it was for about 10 months and never had an issue until recent.
The part that is puzzling me most is that when I was having issues the clutch pedal was just about even with the brake pedal, now it is quite a bit lower than the brake pedal (I would say I lost about 25% of the travel I had BEFORE I adjusted it today). I thought that by making the MC rod longer I would be getting more action out of the slave, therefore more disengagement of the clutch. Why would I get more disengagement by making the rod shorter as I did today? I guess I am just not understanding here. Thanks everyone again!
. But even at that, it wasn't THAT bad... probably could be described as a greenish color. It even looked clear while bleeding out through the clear tubing I was using, the color was really only noticeable when it collected into the water bottle I was using. Anyways, that is all bled now with clean fresh fluid.After the flush I was still experiencing the same problems so I decided to start all over with my adjustment on the Tick MC. I adjusted the rod almost all the way down (rear end jacked) and adjusted the rod out turn by turn until I was able to get gears. To my surprise I was able to shift again! I did what studderin suggested and revved the motor with the clutch in and the tires off the ground, the tires moved just slightly. Went ahead and turned the MC rod one more time and retested per studderin's suggestion, the tires did not move at all this time. Now the problem seems to be alleviated but now i'm curious what would cause this all of a sudden? I drove around with my Tick MC adjusted the way it was for about 10 months and never had an issue until recent.
The part that is puzzling me most is that when I was having issues the clutch pedal was just about even with the brake pedal, now it is quite a bit lower than the brake pedal (I would say I lost about 25% of the travel I had BEFORE I adjusted it today). I thought that by making the MC rod longer I would be getting more action out of the slave, therefore more disengagement of the clutch. Why would I get more disengagement by making the rod shorter as I did today? I guess I am just not understanding here. Thanks everyone again!
12-04-2011, 06:00 PM
#7
the clutch wears, you need adjust for that.
If now the pedal just lowers when you adjust the MC sounds like the clutch height is getting out of range. That happens to me right beofre the discs are wearing thin I noticed.
Anything funny thing, this is the 1st year Ive had the RXT (twin) and since its getting cold out, when I 1st drive the car the clutch feels kinds crappy. And the cauch point is lower, and moves up the 1st few time I move the car. Or pump the pedal a few times. But after I drive it it fells fine again. I'm only gona drive it a few more times, and take it apart to freshen the trans, the check the stack heights and some other things.
If now the pedal just lowers when you adjust the MC sounds like the clutch height is getting out of range. That happens to me right beofre the discs are wearing thin I noticed.
Anything funny thing, this is the 1st year Ive had the RXT (twin) and since its getting cold out, when I 1st drive the car the clutch feels kinds crappy. And the cauch point is lower, and moves up the 1st few time I move the car. Or pump the pedal a few times. But after I drive it it fells fine again. I'm only gona drive it a few more times, and take it apart to freshen the trans, the check the stack heights and some other things.
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12-04-2011, 08:37 PM
#8
I can definitely understand that there is wear on the clutch and its components, but what I don't understand is how the clutch was dragging when the MC rod was adjusted out farther than it is now. Even in the adjustment instructions included with the Tick Master, it states that you can over extend the slave and blow it out by having the rod too long. If that is true how am I getting the clutch disengaged better with theoretically less movement in the MC? Thanks again everyone!
12-05-2011, 11:41 AM
#9
Really strange, I again experienced some difficulty getting into gear this morning. This time it was after I had been driving about 10 minutes and went to grab 2nd on about a 10-15 mph roll. I could not get it so I went for 3rd just to get rolling again (California traffic) and could not get that either. Same thing with 4th. Because of the traffic flow I had to kind of force it in 2nd to get going in which it went in and didn't experience any grinding just resistance. Hate forcing gears for fear of wearing the synchros but didn't have much of a choice at that point... After I was able to get to a stop at a light I was again able to get gears just fine and was able to get to work no problem. So now from what I can tell the problem is somewhat intermittent and doesn't seem like it is transmisson related since it seems to come and go now and isn't a problem.isolated with just one gear. Any help is appreciated. Thanks everyone!
12-08-2011, 12:04 PM
#11
Sounds like you're losing the quality of your bleed somehow. Shoot our techs an email here: http://www.tickperformance.com/pages/Contact
I'd love to lend some advice, but I'm just in sales. Our techs will be able to help you out much better than I am!
I'd love to lend some advice, but I'm just in sales. Our techs will be able to help you out much better than I am!
