Clutch engages with the pedal close to the floor
#1
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Clutch engages with the pedal close to the floor
My slave cylinder went out on me suddenly about 2 months ago and I did a lot of research on these hydraulic clutch systems before I started my work.
I bought the AP brand of clutch master and slave cylinders (from Autozone) that everyone claims is what GM uses. For what it's worth, my original OEM parts that I removed had the AP cast in them so I believe that these are what GM used. Maybe the quality isn't the same these days.
I've got a Monster remote bleeder hose and I've bled the system twice with it. I've also used a MityVac to bleed it with the vacuum method. There is no sponginess to the pedal. It's firm and at about the same level as the brake pedal It's hard to believe that there is still air in the system but what do I know?
It's a pain driving this car with the clutch engaging and disengaging so close to the floor. My 5.0 Mustang is nothing like this and it feels like I have to learn to drive a manual transmission all over again every time I jump in the Trans Am . The car is "jerky" as well because my clutch pedal/gas pedal timing is now off. I can't get used to it because I drive my Mustang just as much as the T/A.
I'll try bleeding again just in case. Short of replacing my new master cylinder with a Tick, is there anything else that I've overlooked or that I can try to get my clutch to engage a little higher up?
I bought the AP brand of clutch master and slave cylinders (from Autozone) that everyone claims is what GM uses. For what it's worth, my original OEM parts that I removed had the AP cast in them so I believe that these are what GM used. Maybe the quality isn't the same these days.
I've got a Monster remote bleeder hose and I've bled the system twice with it. I've also used a MityVac to bleed it with the vacuum method. There is no sponginess to the pedal. It's firm and at about the same level as the brake pedal It's hard to believe that there is still air in the system but what do I know?
It's a pain driving this car with the clutch engaging and disengaging so close to the floor. My 5.0 Mustang is nothing like this and it feels like I have to learn to drive a manual transmission all over again every time I jump in the Trans Am . The car is "jerky" as well because my clutch pedal/gas pedal timing is now off. I can't get used to it because I drive my Mustang just as much as the T/A.
I'll try bleeding again just in case. Short of replacing my new master cylinder with a Tick, is there anything else that I've overlooked or that I can try to get my clutch to engage a little higher up?
Last edited by dannyual777; 01-31-2012 at 06:28 PM.
#2
Same prob here. I ordered a tick master to try and remedy the problem.
Btw my slave is also shimmed to the correct height so if this doesnt fix it im gonna put in a new slave
Btw my slave is also shimmed to the correct height so if this doesnt fix it im gonna put in a new slave
#3
FormerVendor
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I personally haven't had much luck with the remote bleeders. All the ones I've used have leaked air back into the system. I would put a shim behind the slave, take the remote bleeder off and bleed it from under the car. If that doesn't work it might be time to replace the slave with a GM unit. I have seen some aftermarket "AP" units that are actually cheap chinese copys of the original GM unit and they don't work nearly as well.
Good luck and I hope you get it figured out soon. Hydraulic issues are always a headache.
Good luck and I hope you get it figured out soon. Hydraulic issues are always a headache.
#4
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#5
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I personally haven't had much luck with the remote bleeders. All the ones I've used have leaked air back into the system. I would put a shim behind the slave, take the remote bleeder off and bleed it from under the car. If that doesn't work it might be time to replace the slave with a GM unit. I have seen some aftermarket "AP" units that are actually cheap chinese copys of the original GM unit and they don't work nearly as well.
Good luck and I hope you get it figured out soon. Hydraulic issues are always a headache.
Good luck and I hope you get it figured out soon. Hydraulic issues are always a headache.
I thought that shims were required if the flywheel has been cut (surfaced.) My flywheel is GM original and I didn't even remove it when I changed out my clutch hydraulics. Clutch disc and pressure plate are also factory original.
As far as the slave cylinder goes, I asked a lot of questions on this website about the AP slaves. Pretty much everyone said that the AP slave is the GM slave. With the lack of quality control and the fact that everything is chinese made junk these days, it wouldn't surprise me if mine actually is the problem. Or perhaps its the master cylinder. I wish that I would've kept my original master cylinder because I'd reinstall it and see if that fixed my problem.
#7
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As I stated in my first post, the master cylinder is brand new. I've owned the car since it was brand new and it has just over 25,000 miles on it. Clutch was perfect before the slave cylinder seals gave out two months ago.
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#8
10 Second Club
I replaced the slave,master, and line in my 2000 SS that I just bought because the clutch pulled right off the floor and it locked me out of gear at high rpm. After I replaced it with a autozone slave, advance master, and a 2002 line it feels exactly how it was before. I don't know if it locks me out of gear anymore because I haven't driven it because of steering column problems but I don't have a remote bleeder and I had been bleeding it the old fashioned way. I'm going to try driving it for a while and bleed it some more but I was starting to think it was what stock hydraulics felt like lol. I've had ticks in my other cars for to long.
#9
#11
tick ,tick, tick. speed bleeder emersed in brake fluid no problems. tick master with their hydro line to slave , no problems. as for getting used to disengage close to floor, practice makes perfect. people need to stand back look at the obstacle and approach with a clear head. this stuff is easy. just take yourtime it all works out.oooh i sound like a dad now. opps oldman....
#12
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tick ,tick, tick. speed bleeder emersed in brake fluid no problems. tick master with their hydro line to slave , no problems. as for getting used to disengage close to floor, practice makes perfect. people need to stand back look at the obstacle and approach with a clear head. this stuff is easy. just take yourtime it all works out.oooh i sound like a dad now. opps oldman....
Its not just getting used to it. Its the fact that its not supposed to be that way. Whats wrong with wanting something to work the way that its supposed to work? In this day and age of poor quality stuff, I think that we've lowered our standards bar and have come to accept stuff that we really shouldn't be accepting!
#13
The problem for me is the fact that I also drive a 5.0 Mustang with a "normal" clutch. Makes it really tough to get used to this Trans Am clutch disengaging so close to the floor.
Its not just getting used to it. Its the fact that its not supposed to be that way. Whats wrong with wanting something to work the way that its supposed to work? In this day and age of poor quality stuff, I think that we've lowered our standards bar and have come to accept stuff that we really shouldn't be accepting!
Its not just getting used to it. Its the fact that its not supposed to be that way. Whats wrong with wanting something to work the way that its supposed to work? In this day and age of poor quality stuff, I think that we've lowered our standards bar and have come to accept stuff that we really shouldn't be accepting!
companies like tick are stepping up and catering to a market of people who want quality parts.
to the guys at tick, keep up the good work
#14
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I have the same thing happening to me as of now, just finished installing new LS7 clutch kit with new GM master and slave cylinder, new thorwout bearing and pilot bearing. Bled the clutch with JMD method, pedal is solid but clutch would engage when the pedal rather close to the floor.when I depressed the pedal it sits as high as the brake pedal.
I'm thinking maybe there's still air in the system but it doesn't make sense if that's causing the clutch to engage real close to the floor. I don't think that shims are required also since my old setup which was the same exact setup that I put in the car didn't have it and the clutch engaged higher than it is now.
Let me know how yours turn out, I'm going to bleed mine some more and I'll let you know how mine goes.
I'm thinking maybe there's still air in the system but it doesn't make sense if that's causing the clutch to engage real close to the floor. I don't think that shims are required also since my old setup which was the same exact setup that I put in the car didn't have it and the clutch engaged higher than it is now.
Let me know how yours turn out, I'm going to bleed mine some more and I'll let you know how mine goes.
#15
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I'm going to bleed mine some more just in case. It's hard for me to believe that there is any air in the system but who knows?
Anyway, I've still got my stock, factory clutch as well as the stock factory flywheel so there are no shims. The only parts that are different than factory are the new AP slave cylinder and new AP master cylinder.
My clutch pedal is about the same height as the brake pedal. Engagement and disengagement are very close to the floor. Not even close to stock .
Anyway, I've still got my stock, factory clutch as well as the stock factory flywheel so there are no shims. The only parts that are different than factory are the new AP slave cylinder and new AP master cylinder.
My clutch pedal is about the same height as the brake pedal. Engagement and disengagement are very close to the floor. Not even close to stock .
#16
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well that makes me thinking your problem would be in the hydraulic system then, given everything in the clutch stays the same and you changed the hydraulic. did you ever notice if the AP slave and the GM slave are different in size? i doubt it but im just thinking out loud..
oh and by the way you should try to bleed using JMD method, it worked really good, it was my first time bleeding clutch and i didnt even bench bleed the master, and i got the pedal feel back in less than 30 mins.
oh and by the way you should try to bleed using JMD method, it worked really good, it was my first time bleeding clutch and i didnt even bench bleed the master, and i got the pedal feel back in less than 30 mins.
#18
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hey man i fixed my problem, bled it 2 more times and now it's excellent.