PhoneniX

hello i did search, if it already exists send me a link please!

ok so under normal load and daily driving 3rd gear has never given me a problem. i have raced the car at a local 1/8th mile track 3 times now and here are my issues.
1st trip- traction control on, i dumped the clutch from 2k and as i shifted into 2nd the pedal was noticeably lower to the floor but it went in to gear w/no problems (this is granny shifting) then when it came time for 3rd i hit the clutch and it was less than half way up! and as i moved into the 3rd gear gate with the shifter it stopped half way thou the gate and DID NOT GRIND THE GEAR but also wont engage so i just bounced off the red line when i released the clutch (fyi still got a 9.5et im happy with that time missing 3rd and tc on not to shabby 1st)

2nd race- tc off. i launched a lil lower rpm, 2nd had better feel but i was spinning like a mad man and decided to let off before going for third and stuffing into a wall within my 1st month of ownership

3rd race- tc on i lightly launched (just want to make it to the lights this time , et not as big a concern) basically did normal take off and floored it once i hit 10 mph. grabbed second just fine and pedal was at the top. went for third PEDAL WAS FINE but GROUND 3rd. (car 3- driver 0)

so in short i have a problem where if i launch the car and shift fast the clutch looses pedal travel/pressure? and second i have a issue where third gear is fine daily, then either grinds or worse does not even finish the throw???

please help! ive been suggested that its possibly bad syncros for the grind and bad slave for the pedal, but i read its commonish for the pedal travel problem without the free hose mod

gs462

iTrader: (4)

Im having the same issues, here is the thread and replies..


https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...lp-needed.html

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Research pedal crash.

You can try to bleed the whole slave out but most likely the clutch is going. Happend to me often and it the trans is not letting the gear out and getting stuck, that is clear indication of parts damage you need to stop racing it.

You should have stopped after the first sign and you probably need a rebuild on both due to pushing it.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

A few things worth checking: How does the fluid look in the reservoir? Is it dark or discolored? Either way it would be a good idea to flush the system and refill it with a higher temp fluid...I suggest Motul RBF 600. Additionally, since you are a new owner you probably don't know if the car has the drill-mod. It would be worth checking the line that feeds from the salve to the master and if it hasn't been bored then it should be. You can search LS1 Drill Mod and find instructions for this. Make sure that the line feeding the slave is routed properly and wrapped in a good heat resistant wrap to help further protect the fluid.

You can also reference the link below for further info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-write-up.html

Let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to assist you.

PhoneniX

thanks for the link! i read your thread and will check the fluid after the weekend!

BlackScreaminMachine- i feel prety confident that the clutch itself is not a problem because its good durning normal driving and grabbs fine. also i do not have the problem "the trans is not letting the gear out and getting stuck", its letting go fine but not letting me engage 3rd. but ill look at that after the fluids.

SPEC-01 - thank you for the indepth info ( i did hear of the drill mod but to be honest i didnt know what hose it was on, im very new) later in the week il check the fluids as im out of town this weekend. will be sure to update!

blackbird0230

If these don't work I wanna do the master cylinder, but first I wanna try this drill mod

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I agree with BlackScreaminMachine, you have bolt-ons and are making more power than stock on a stock clutch with many miles and drive the car aggresively. You can try to bleed the system to make sure the hydraulics are properly working, but at best the stock clutch can hold ~10% more power than stock reliably. You're atleast making that and it's not a new clutch by any means. If it's slipping when driven hard, then it's creating extra heat and boiling the fluids, leaving the limp pedal. I'd start saving for a new clutch asap, so you don't need to save for a trans rebuild too. Feel free to contact me with any questions. Chris, 817-750-2000

PhoneniX

havent been able to get to changing the fluids yet as spare (day) time is becoming hard to come by now. but i did the simple clutch test that my mechanic friend suggested. he suggested basically dropping the clutch from a stop in highest gear and if the car does not stall out then the clutch is slipping.

what i did was to put it in 5th from a 1st gear roll (5-10mph) and floor it (i didnt feel like causing unnecessary stress on the rear end by launching) and it bogged like hell without increasing rpms. so im feeling good about the clutch still.

to be continued... ive heard about a local mechanic that deals with trans and happens to own a lt1 camaro

gs462

iTrader: (4)

FYI I did the fluid chance and it didnt help a bit, My next step is to replace everything clutch, master, slave, bearing and a new hose. That will be soon I will be watching to see how yours turns out also.

PhoneniX

i never got to it this season. but i have learned a few things
-by doing a rolling start i can keep enough pedal to shift all the way up thru 3rd and possibly 4th gear
-my napa charges about the same price for a master as one can be had online, minus the wait time for shipping ($88 with AAA discount)
-4th gear will grind on me during normal driving

and last night i was going down the thruway at 65 and downshifted to 5th, 4th and tried to get into third slowly rev matching as i went to be easy on the car (and see where the rpm are for each gear) when i got into 3rd it slid in fine but when i released the clutch the engine just revved, no tranny grind, no forward movement gained, i push in the clutch to disengage 3rd and the stick was stuck no-matter how hard i pulled! i coasted to the roadside and restarted the car and with a good yank i was able to get it out of third. has anybody been locked INTO a gear? it seems kind of similar to my upshifting experience with it goin in the gate and not engaging or even grinding


looks like i need to rebuild the tranny imho

ls1tafirehawk

I had the same problem when I bought mine. Did a tranny rebuil, clutch.and master job to it. As for the drill mod that didnt work for me.if I were u I would.just go ahead with stage 2 rebuild brass syncro for 3rd n 4th. Either ram hd clutch r monster stage 2 n definetly a tick adj master.

00ws6indubv

iTrader: (4)

Get ya a TICK master cylinder and your hyrdo problems and high rpm shifting will be gone. I had this same issue on my 00 ws6, and after I got the tick master it was night and day difference. I just ordered one through tick performance for my 02 since I am about to swap out my clutch. there having a group purchase right now and youll save some money. but only first 100 get the discount so get ahold of joey at tick and hell hook ya up.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

If you decide to replace the whole lot give me a call. I am sure that I can help you with a package that will meet your needs. Check the link below for options and details and let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy/Camaro/2000/Single

BirdsSince16

iTrader: (3)

Agreed on the Tick Master Cylinder. I was having the same problem, and while I will still be needing a trans rebuild for syncros and future go-fast mods, the new master cylinder helped more than you'd ever imagine for the high RPM 3rd gear shifts.

PhoneniX

update for the new driving season. i am now paying attention and have noticed a slight drop in pedal firmness/travel as i daily drive shifting 1-5 (man i do see why the skip shift was thought up. rowing that fast in traffic is hectic)

point is before i thought it was not a daily issue and turns out it is. i do agree that i need a clutch!

however I am going to study abroad this summer and the funds will be used for that over the car (obvious choice as the car still drives just cant race) and study abroad is a once in a lifetime opportunity

thank you for the suggestions and online diagnosis help to all that chimed in! Maby after i graduate next year i can look into a trans rebuild and clutch upgrade.

TransamGCS

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like the clutch master is going i would get tick performance clutch master and be done with it.

bongva

iTrader: (7)

Do you have a Tick adjustable master cylinder? My brother had the same problem as you did. couldnt get it into those gears what so ever, it seemed as if the clutch fluid was hot or something. He did everything, bled the system, put in high boiling point clutch fluid, and even the drill mod. Nothing helped at all, so he gave up and bought a TMC. Solved his issue, and mine as well.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you have the weak factory GM master... Switch it out with one of ours and should solve your problem based on what info you have provided.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/