A4-M6 swap question
#1
A4-M6 swap question
I'm almost done my A4-M6 swap and I'm concerned about the amout the firewall flexes when I press on the clutch pedal. It seems to move like 2-3mm, and I'm worried about the sheet metal breaking after a few years of hard driving. Any advice on what u guys have done would be great.
#2
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There are a few threads showing how they made backing plates for the firewall
Sheet metal from a hardware store seems to be the most common way. Basically make a cardboard cutout that the master fits through and then use it as a template to cut out the piece of metal. If you bring the template into lowes to buy the metal they should be able to cut it for you as well just tip the guy
Sheet metal from a hardware store seems to be the most common way. Basically make a cardboard cutout that the master fits through and then use it as a template to cut out the piece of metal. If you bring the template into lowes to buy the metal they should be able to cut it for you as well just tip the guy
#3
can someone on here direct me on the thread or sticky on this for i also did the swap.then low and behold something new and improved pops up. i thought the bracket that bolts the pedal assembly to the floor was the support? you know the one thats horseshoe shaped and thru bolts to the master? not jacking thread but this question could help alot of us changeover guys. 2001 transam that clutch and tranny makes these TOTALLY different cars !!! have fun thanks ls nation!! the oldman....
#4
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It's literally on page 1 of the a4->m6 how to swap thread that is at the top of this forum
http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/m6swap-ls1.doc
You would want the plate because the firewall isn't as thick as on an m6 car, if you do some heavy pedal pushing you are going to push the slave further into the engine bay.
Kind of like if you put a floor jack in the wrong spot under your car your going to put a big bump in the floor board
http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/m6swap-ls1.doc
You would want the plate because the firewall isn't as thick as on an m6 car, if you do some heavy pedal pushing you are going to push the slave further into the engine bay.
Kind of like if you put a floor jack in the wrong spot under your car your going to put a big bump in the floor board
Last edited by chrysler kid; 04-19-2012 at 08:07 PM.
#5
Oldman:
The horse shoe bracket doesn't actually strengthen anything because it's so small. Something thicker needs to be installed. I will be making a bracket today and will post a pic and weather or not it actually helped. I used the extra stud below and will put a nut on it. It extends about an inch below the plastic. I think it needs to be on the pedal side of the firewall for maximum effectiveness.
The horse shoe bracket doesn't actually strengthen anything because it's so small. Something thicker needs to be installed. I will be making a bracket today and will post a pic and weather or not it actually helped. I used the extra stud below and will put a nut on it. It extends about an inch below the plastic. I think it needs to be on the pedal side of the firewall for maximum effectiveness.
#6
So I installed the plate today after work and I think it definitely helped. Check out the pics and you could easily make one yourself. I think the best way to fix the problem would be to do what I did and make it larger to the right side and use the 3 holes that the steering column mounts to. You would have a greater area to push on. However, before I installed this plate, I had at least 3mm of firewall travel and now its like 1mm. Plus it doesn't bow out as much now. I used 1/16" sheet metal.
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#8
thanks 2001transam i'll work on one soon. the stud for the auto bracket i took mine out because of interference,but replaced it with a small thru bolt. 1/16 plate? i'll give her a try. thanks a bunch. the oldman...
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Wish I'd known this before completing my swap last month. Now I gotta go back in there...
FWIW, I also had to take out that 3rd nut. I used a 1" holesaw and centered it over the nut after cutting the stud off/grinding the stud off smooth. 1" was the perfect size and it drilled it right out. The reason I had to take it out was I bought and installed a Tick MC and the aluminum bracket they machine for it is larger than the stock bracket and interferes with that stud behind the firewall. Just a heads up if you ever do the Tick, that 3rd nut may have to come out.
Thanks for the info and the pics of the bracket. Looks good!
FWIW, I also had to take out that 3rd nut. I used a 1" holesaw and centered it over the nut after cutting the stud off/grinding the stud off smooth. 1" was the perfect size and it drilled it right out. The reason I had to take it out was I bought and installed a Tick MC and the aluminum bracket they machine for it is larger than the stock bracket and interferes with that stud behind the firewall. Just a heads up if you ever do the Tick, that 3rd nut may have to come out.
Thanks for the info and the pics of the bracket. Looks good!
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You know I'm wondering something about those who have had issues with the firewall cracking...was it on the stock MC?
Reason I ask is I just looked at my car today which has the Tick MC that I installed with the swap. The Tick master has a lot wider base than the stock MC, which I'm thinking would help support the firewall from behind and stop it from cracking. I spent some time with mine pushing the pedal up and down, checking to see if the firewall is flexing and it isn't--at least not visibly.
Anyone care to comment here?
Reason I ask is I just looked at my car today which has the Tick MC that I installed with the swap. The Tick master has a lot wider base than the stock MC, which I'm thinking would help support the firewall from behind and stop it from cracking. I spent some time with mine pushing the pedal up and down, checking to see if the firewall is flexing and it isn't--at least not visibly.
Anyone care to comment here?
#14
My stock M6 car had a crack forming around the stock MC when it got stolen. I did have an extremely aggressive driving style and did manage to break the seat mount from banging gears. I want to be able to use the stock or aftermarket MCs in my car after I perform the swap.