01whitez

Here we go, I have lost my old acct info, here is my new one.

I have had clutch problems for a long time. I have a newer Orielly Master cylinder, a brand new Orielly slave cylinder, and a brand new stage 2.5 competition clutch disk with a valeo pressure plate (also new). I installed it all one by one in that order. Original problem was pedal stuck to floor at high rpm shifts. NOW, after puttin a new master and slave, I decided it had to be pressure plate. After completing the install, I couldn't get the car into gear, it rolled when I tried. If I start it in gear, it trys to roll away if you don't hold the brake. Obviously, the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I thought I maybe had the wrong pressure plate or needed a shim, but I discovered this: The slave cylinder only travels about 3/8"-1/2". It looks like it could possibly travel a little over 1" if it was working correctly. Please let me know if this is normal or if I have a defective slave or master. Here is a video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKsgT8-EAmI

PLEASE HELP ME!!! I need to know if I should go get another one before I go through the hassle of installing it all for the 3rd time just to find out this won't work. ANY AND ALL HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

JaYZeig

iTrader: (11)

i cant tell in your vid. is your throwout bearing missing?

1ltcap

i didn't watch the video, but what you're describing sounds amazing like you need to do a little more bleeding.

01whitez

Jayzeig: Yes, I took the throw out bearing off so that I could get the spring off the slave. This makes it easier to take the measurement for a shim. This is a brand new slave.

1ltcap: I have bled it bolted up in the car and hanging like this also. I get the exact same results every time. The video is 25 seconds... if you know how much travel it should have could you please help me out and take a peek.

Please help, I don't want to unnecessarily pull the master and swap it and get the same results. I also don't want to reassemble everything and get the same results. I need my clutch to disengage and need to know if this is normal or not (how far the slave travels).

1ltcap

Bulletin ID: 01-07-31-002B Release Date: 01-Nov-2006

Subject: Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System

Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2007 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2007 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2006–2007 HUMMER H3



This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 — Transmission/Transaxle).

This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.

1. Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
2. Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
3. Remove the reservoir cap.
4. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
5. Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.

Important: Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.
6. Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
7. Apply a vacuum of 51–68 kPa (15–20 hg) and remove the adapter.
8. Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
9. Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
10. If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.

Caution: The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
11. Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
12. Add additional fluid if needed.
13. Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.

1ltcap

i just found that tsb above......it sounds like the bled procedure on this vehicle is much different than what i've done on others.

n20_stang

Bump... kind of curious if there are any updates or any other suggestions. I have a friend with a similar issue.

1ltcap

did you try bleeding it as per the tsb i posted for ya?

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

I can't find it now but I think I read somewhere that the clutch actually only needs 1/4" of slave travel to fully disengage

are you sure the "stage 2.5 competition clutch disk" is the exact same thickness as what the valeo pressure plate is designed for?

01whitez

I have tried yet another new slave and master, bled them EVERY WAY IMAGINABLE. I can feel the pedal get tight about 25% depressed. It feels solid for the next 75%. Still won't go into gear. I even shimmed the slave to within 1/16 of the fingers. I am on the fence for buying a new LS7 Clutch kit (or comparable) or a Tick master. SOMETHING is horribly wrong here and my car has been on jack stand for 6 months. I guess no one has checked how much travel they get out of their slave, but if anyone has or does, please post and help me out. On another note... where is the best (least expensive) place to buy a LS7 clutch kit (or compararble). I say LS7 not because it is what I want, but because I see people have success with them. Thats what I want... success = car off jackstands/T-tops down.

PS: clutch kit needs to have a flywheel, disc, and pressure plate that are PROVEN to work together. I will NEVER let someone talk me into a pieced together kit again, even if it turns out to not be the problem. It adds too many variables when you do have a problem!

JohnWaynesZ28

Bump for ya

chevyboy91188

iTrader: (15)

I spoke to mcleod and they told me specifically that half an inch is the standard travel for fbody slave cylinder. yours appears to be correct did you remove the spring around outside? mine is a spring it against the clutch face?

01whitez

THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH!!! Now I am pretty confident the problem is more than likely something wrong with my flywheel, disc, or PP. I have searched high and low for the amount of travel required but have found nothing! Thank you! And... yes I removed the spring from under the plastic housing. In the "Install University" directions for clutch install, it states to remove this to make it easier to measure for your shim. Then it says they opted to leave the spring out upon re-installation. I don't know if one way is better than the other... it's just what it said. Here is the link:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ls1...tallation.html

1988Bullitt

I am running into a similar issue, and questioning my clutch master cylinder, what ended up fixing your car?

JohnWaynesZ28

^^ he ended up buying a ls7 clutch kit and GM master and slave. (TICKS on BO)We also had to shim the slave a bit.

After it was fixed the starter cracked the block. He always seems to have the best luck.lol

01whitez

Johnwayne is correct, it appears that this amount of slave travel is sufficient to disengage the pressure plate. I found this out after contacting some clutch manufacturers. After chasing the problem down and changing my master and slave AGAIN with proper shims and no fix, I broke down and bought an LS7 clutch kit. I was able to return these masters and slaves to O'Rielly because I had returned them over 3 times and they gave me my money back. I bought the clutch kit with a GM master and GM slave. I installed it and it seems to be working good, but right at 100 miles on the clutch (my second trip in the car) my starter housing broke in half and it cracked my block where the other bolt was trying to hang on by itself. After further research I have some advice: NEVER EVER EVER!!!! start your car with a weak battery. It causes kick back and breaks your starter and cracks your block. I had a weak battery because my car has been on jack stands for 6 months with this clutch problem. Anyways, the original problem lied somewhere between these three factors:
I had a resurfaced flywheel.
I had a clutch disc from TN clutch
I had a heavy duty Valeo Pressure plate from TN Clutch

So it was either the flywheel, or the pressure plate, or the disc, or combination

Here is some pics of my cracked block: http://tnfbody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16681

01whitez

I also meant to mention: after installing the GM Master and GM Slave and bleeding them, I checked the travel of the slave just as I did in the video. The result was the EXACT same amount of travel. Just to let you know!

1988Bullitt

Thanks for the heads up, this is the combination I am going with:

GM Master cylinder assembly with lines 12570277
GM Clutch: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12570806
GM Slave: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-24264182

It's going in a 2001 Camaro SS

nonosvt

iTrader: (5)

I had the same problem. I had to shim the slave out. Went right into gear with no probs. Think it was the 1.80 thousands shim or the bigger one the tick or TDP sales.