My car will not go into gear, any ideas?
06-15-2012, 05:41 PM
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Launching!
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My car will not go into gear, any ideas? 2002 Z28. M6. Just about stock (air lid and shorty headers w/ catback). 35k miles.
I don't drive the car much, but the weather was nice. I drove around town, probably 40 miles of city driving. Some spirited driving. Nothing overly hard on the car though. The tires are worn out (from age, not wear), so I eased into it from a stop. Absolutely no issues with shifting the car.
Shifting from 1st to 2nd at about 4k rpms it wouldn't go into 2nd. I can't get it to go into any gear when the engine is running, no grinding sounds, I just can't shove the stick into gear. Though if I push the clutch in and shove the stick against first gear it will creep forward some. With the engine off I can put it in any gear. The clutch pedal feels like I am losing pressure about halfway down with the engine running. With the engine off the clutch pedal feels normal.
The master cylinder is full. There are no signs of fluid dripping or leaking anywhere. The transmission is full of fluid.
Absolutely no signs or indication of impending failure until it failed. I drove approx 40 miles today before the failure.
I welded frame connectors in this past weekend. I disconnected the battery before welding. I don't think this has anything to do with the transmission problem, but it seems like a hell of a coincidence!
Also, I have had trouble in the past with reverse. I push the stick all the way over and forward, but it goes in 5th instead of reverse. I pull it back to neutral and shove it over and it goes in reverse. I have chocked it up to not driving the car much, but perhaps that is related?
I apologize for the long post, but I prefer to give too much info than not enough. I appreciate any help. Fortunately I am not relying on the car to get me to work on Monday, I have a truck for that.
I don't drive the car much, but the weather was nice. I drove around town, probably 40 miles of city driving. Some spirited driving. Nothing overly hard on the car though. The tires are worn out (from age, not wear), so I eased into it from a stop. Absolutely no issues with shifting the car.
Shifting from 1st to 2nd at about 4k rpms it wouldn't go into 2nd. I can't get it to go into any gear when the engine is running, no grinding sounds, I just can't shove the stick into gear. Though if I push the clutch in and shove the stick against first gear it will creep forward some. With the engine off I can put it in any gear. The clutch pedal feels like I am losing pressure about halfway down with the engine running. With the engine off the clutch pedal feels normal.
The master cylinder is full. There are no signs of fluid dripping or leaking anywhere. The transmission is full of fluid.
Absolutely no signs or indication of impending failure until it failed. I drove approx 40 miles today before the failure.
I welded frame connectors in this past weekend. I disconnected the battery before welding. I don't think this has anything to do with the transmission problem, but it seems like a hell of a coincidence!
Also, I have had trouble in the past with reverse. I push the stick all the way over and forward, but it goes in 5th instead of reverse. I pull it back to neutral and shove it over and it goes in reverse. I have chocked it up to not driving the car much, but perhaps that is related?
I apologize for the long post, but I prefer to give too much info than not enough. I appreciate any help. Fortunately I am not relying on the car to get me to work on Monday, I have a truck for that.
06-16-2012, 11:37 AM
#2
Launching!
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No one? I noticed two points of interest in looking the car over. The master cylinder is wrapped in what appears to be ductwork tape (shiny silver aluminum tape for joints in ductwork, not grey duct tape). There is a 1 1/2" hole drilled in the floor pan that about lines up with the hydraulic line attached to the slave cylinder. I assume the hole was drilled to bleed the slave cylinder?
How do I tell if the master cylinder is good? Some sort of op-test? I am hoping the master cylinder is the issue, because I don't want to drop the transmission.
How do I tell if the master cylinder is good? Some sort of op-test? I am hoping the master cylinder is the issue, because I don't want to drop the transmission.
