Boost-box

iTrader: (13)

My setup is as follows: 5.3 with an LS7 flywheel and clutch assembley, ARP flywheel bolts, Tick adjustable master, stock slave.

The problem I was having was no matter how much I adjusted the rod on the tick master, the clutch would still engage about 1 1/2" off the floor, and took an incredible amount of force to put it to the floor. After an entire day of driving the car, I felt like I had shin splints in my left leg

I bled the clutch and master several times to no avail, is it just the way the LS7 unit is? this setup was in my 87 Buick GN with a custom pedal setup.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

427zm

iTrader: (9)

Quick answer is no. The LS7 clutch in my stock C6 Z06 is a great easy to drive clutch. It engages right at the half way point (between the floor and the top of the pedal travel). Currently it has 27K on it and has endured 3 road course days and 1 drag strip day with no slip in sight. It has been great! Sounds like something isn't adjusted correctly.

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

Its a soft clutch, it shouldnt be that hard to disengage. Also, adjusting the master should be able to help get your engage/disengagement point to change.

Did you shim the slave cylinder, or atleast measure to see if one was needed? Also, is it completely disengaging the clutch? You can do a rev test to confirm it is or isnt.

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

I have the LS7 clutch assembly in my C5. It certainly has a soft clutch pedal feel and is an easy to drive clutch. Mine also engages about half way point between the pedal travel.

As NVR SPDS mentioned, I was going to ask if you measured to see if shimming the slave was necessary? I did when installing mine and it did not need shimming.

ncsu602

iTrader: (10)

Just finished putting this clutch in my Camaro. I personally haven't drove it yet, it's at my father-in-law's shop and he drove it last night. After shimming, not shimming, bleeding, taking the trans out aleast 6 times, and scratching our heads, we finally decided to bleed it through the reservoir with a mityvac. 10 minutes later it was driveable. He bled it with a mityvac and got a good pedal, cracked the bleeder open on the slave and lost all pedal, then bled just the master again and got it back. He says it drives like stock and is pretty light. Of course it had a Textraila Exoskel in it, so I imagine it does feel light.

Mine didn't need a shim and we made the stock master adjustable. Try bleeding it from the top with vacuum, that seems to be the trick.

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

I have 27k miles on mine and all it takes to press it is just a little more than the weight of my leg. Its awesome in stop and go traffic. You definitely have something funky going on

Ls3 98t/a ... Martin

I have a new ls7 clutch with the flywheel and we put in a ls3 but now the problem is that when the car is on the gears won't go in but when it's off they go in it has fluid ... What can it be

ncsu602

iTrader: (10)

It either needs a shim or its got air in the system. Doubt it needs a shim though, but measure to be sure.

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

what he said

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

What does the custom pedal look like? If the pedal effort is super stiff I would think that maybe the location where the rod attaches to the pedal is too low (assuming the pedal is swinging/hanging).

How much travel does the pedal have if you adjust it out far enough to bottom the piston in the master cylinder? You may want to unhook the line from the slave and push the piston in at the end of the line if it uses a quick disconnect so you don't actuate the pressure plate too far.

The idea is to move the piston inside the master its full 1.1" of stroke with the full range of the pedal that you are comfortable with. If the pedals range is really short in order to move the piston in the master its full stroke then you need to move the peg on the pedal where the master attaches farther up so that more movement of pedal is necessary.

This will give you more leverage and ease the effort necessary to push the pedal down. Just be sure that the rod of the master stays in line with the body of the master. Changing the location of the rod to the pedal will require the body of the cylinder to be tilted as well so that the geometry remains correct... If the rod and cylinder aren't in line premature wear will occur to the cylinder.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

Air in the system would make the pedal seem softer, or spongy....not stiff. Whether it needed a shim or not will have zero effect on how the pedal feels also. The shim is really just prevention for a damaged slave when using our master cylinder. It has no effect on how the clutch functions unless you add so much shim that it actually pre-loads the pressure plate.

When the trans is bolted to the bellhousing, the tob is in contact with the pressure plate and the gap that was measured is no longer there...the large spring under the tob removes the gap by holding the bearing in contact with the pressure plate.

Adding a shim simply maintains the clearance as measured during assembly so that the slave cylinder has as much range or stroke as possible before the bearing/seal blows out the end. If you had 1/2" of gap for example and you had a tick master adjusted to full stroke you would blow the slave out. The gap as measured during assembly can be subtracted from the range the slave has... Too much gap and the slave could be damaged.

Blownbayou

iTrader: (7)

I have the LS7 and it gave futral problems also..... Charley made my stock M/C adjustable and this thing is a dream now. Basic leg weight is all you need to shift the car.....

bigmandengo

iTrader: (21)

Im having the same problem with my ls7 clutch and tick master cylinder in my 81 regal. I'm using a custom clutch pedal made by John Bzdel. The problem is the pedal's pivot point is too far from the m/c rod attachment point. This gives you less leverage and less pedal throw. Here is one solution to the problem and probably what I'm going to do.

http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewto...11602&p=852586