rebuilt t56 and wont downshift 3-2
08-09-2012, 08:18 PM
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rebuilt t56 and wont downshift 3-2 I recently had my t56 rebuilt by Tony Capolla at capolla motorsports here in upstate ny. I purchased the rebuild parts through d&d performance the parts i ordered from d&d were the kevlar syncros along with the brass for reverse and billet keys and steel 3-4 fork and bronze shift pads i fugured just a freshen up not a complete rebuild because the fluid was always clean and metal and debris free. My car is a 2000 firehawk with 68k on it and 66k at the time i had grinding issues, due to the clutch no being shimmed properly so anyway had it rebuilt it didnt need bearings and i was told it shifted like butter on the bench with no load and like i said to myself that doesnt mean a thing. So i put in the bg synthetic atf fluid that he recomended and bled the clutch after i had made my stock master cylider adjustable and had complete clucth disengagement. I also installed my new mgw shifter and i took the car up the road and it shifted and downshifted perfect until it got up to temp and then it wouldnt downshift 3-2 without pulling like hell and i came back and bled the clucth again figuring it was airbound, and got no air and had clean new fluid througout. So i roadtested it again and same thing every gear shifted fine up and down except the 3-2 downshift. I put miles on it like tony recomended and i have 2k of backroads and lots of shifting and it still doesnt downshift easily. It shifts like it hits a wall when downshifting 3-2 but if i hold the clutch in and shift 3-1 and then 1-2 it goes into second easily. i talked to d&d and they said it was a very weird complaint being that normally when cold there will be problems and at temp they disapear. They said it seems like the 1-2 blocker ring assembly or syncro assembly is bad i cant remeber which he told me but i just want some opinions before i bring the car back to tony just yeti am going to try the washer on the spring detent bolt mod but im not expecting that to work. any ideas and thought would be helpful
08-09-2012, 09:27 PM
#2
My suggestion would have been not to break in the new blockers with synth fluid and never downshift the unit until after the breakin period.
You can try dropping the fluid and putting some miles on non-synth before trying the downshift, but the damage may already be done...
You can try dropping the fluid and putting some miles on non-synth before trying the downshift, but the damage may already be done...
08-09-2012, 09:38 PM
#4
Thats the greatest stress on the blockers and if downshifted during breakin, you can easily prematurely wear the friction rings.
The othes may be worn also, but the problems you're noticing are showing up during 3-2 first.. All depends on how it was affected during the improper breakin period..
08-10-2012, 05:19 AM
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Well i dont believe it was im properly broken in because i drove the car normally and downshifted the transmission. I dont know what your under standing of downshifting is because im not driving into a corner a watkins glen and simply downshifting and using no brakes, that would be retarded! I am slowing down with my brakes and simply tring to downshift to a gear that better suits the speed and rpm i am traveling at and nothing more. Plus my car is a 2000 firehawk which came from the factory with the synthetic lubricants package, and was broken in from new with sythetic fluid and it worked fine for the first 65k before it had clutch issues.
08-10-2012, 05:40 AM
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Ok i am simply stating the facts i drive the car on the street, i dont road race it. It would be like buying a new car and driving it for 2k miles and having issues from normal driving, and the advice given doesnt make sense any further than synthetic fluid is more slippery than semi synthetic ATF seeing how the car has always had sythetic fluid from the factory and isnt being downshifted with out using the clutch its simply normal daily driving i dont understand any other way to drive a car normally and break in a transmission you upshift and downshift it like you would anyother time/day.
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08-10-2012, 08:48 AM
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From what I can tell your "freshening" included friction-lined synchro parts but what about the syncronizer assembly...the sleeve& hub assembly? If these were carry-over , you may have missed a significant tip wear and this alone can cause your probs.
BTW
I, too ,will give you a full refund if you don't like what I said.
BTW
I, too ,will give you a full refund if you don't like what I said.
08-10-2012, 01:18 PM
#9
I agree with the above I wouldnt use synthetic in a fresh unit... however with the carbon rings it shouldnt have been too much of an issue. Did the car downshift 3-2 ok before the rebuild? It maybe possible the synchro hub is worn down and needs to be replaced I had this happen to me but mine was grinding... You say yours just doesnt want to go in? Also being your firehawk is a 2000 the trans did not have synthetic in it, that slp package was for the engine, ps pump and rear end the t56 in 2000 used paper synchro rings which needed dex 3 conventional atf to function properly....
08-12-2012, 11:10 AM
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It doesn't go in and when I force it it doesn't grind and does
Your engine say you should use full synthetic? No! But it works better for that and I was just following what the guy who built it told me to use SFB!
Your engine say you should use full synthetic? No! But it works better for that and I was just following what the guy who built it told me to use SFB!
08-15-2012, 04:28 PM
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I'm curious too! My M6 does the same exact thing! I bought my car with 36k and don't think the trans has been rebuilt....prob previously abused.
To get it into 2nd from 3rd I have to tap it onto 1st without putting into 1st. (Just the tip? Ha!) Kind of hard to explain but its annoying because it will not go in 3-2!
To get it into 2nd from 3rd I have to tap it onto 1st without putting into 1st. (Just the tip? Ha!) Kind of hard to explain but its annoying because it will not go in 3-2!
