Can't get a socket on the bleeder screw
 

I have a 99 Trans Am. 38k miles, car is bone stock. About 2 weeks ago, out of nowhere, my clutch pedal started sticking when i was shifting in/out of 1st gear. When i shift through the other gears it comes up fine. The car is never driven hard and it does this every time i get into the car, but like i said only in 1st gear.

I figured i'd start by replacing/bleeding the clutch fluid because mine looks pretty dirty:

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c7...pse88e88c2.jpg

However i CANNOT get a socket on the bleeder screw. I can feel it with my hand (2" above braided line that goes into slave cylinder) but can't get the socket on there. I'm using a shallow 7/16" socket on a 1/4" drive with a breaker bar. It seems like there is a part of the transmission/bellhousing that comes out and is preventing me from sliding the socket on, but then again i can't see anything that i'm doing so i really can't tell what's going on. How do you guys get to this thing??? Very frustrated. Thanks in advance..

It's possible it is just a pain in the ass. This is why the bleeder extensions are so popular. Just keep at it, you might need to get some thin walled sockets. Good luck.

The socket i was using already looked pretty thin to me, i guess it's possible to flex the screw a little so i have room to get the socket on?

I probably spent 3 hours under there trying to get a damn socket on

I don't know man. I just did a master install on the fourth and it was a pain in the ass but wasn't as bad as you're describing. Does the socket fit on without the wrench?

There's also the turkey baster method where you suck out the reservoir and replace the fluid in the reservoir , drive ,repeat until clear.

The correct size is an 11mm

Some people say 11mm, some say 7/16, even saw a few say 10mm.

I went and got a Turkey Baster and tried sucking the old fluid out of the reservoir. I did that and then replaced it, pumped the pedal like 30 times and did this a few times...fluid is now remaining clear, however the pedal still intermittently sticks. STUMPED.

Tick master. Best mod I did

I noticed even since i got my car that it seems abnormally rough going into gears...like it doesn't "snap" like it's supposed to. Think the tick would solve that problem too? I'm half tempted just to fork over the money.

You're going to have to get to that bleeder screw regardless. Might as well just bleed it properly first and see if that takes care of it.

Put some black electrical tape on the socket and extension so the socket doesn't come off. Also you can cut a small hole in the floor pan just to the right of the gas pedal then you can see the bleeder screw.

bleeder screw
 

x2 on the cutting the hole idea.

I took a sharp tool, and from under the car a banged a dimple right above that frustrating bleeder screw in the trans tunnel, then lifted up the carpet on the inside of the car (piece of cake) and used a 1" hole saw right on that dimple. I now sit in the driver's seat with a long extension going down the hole to the bleeder and pump/loosen/tighten all without getting off my butt LOL.. made bleeding a piece of cake even for one guy (except for the mess on the driveway afterwards).

I had the sticking clutch thing, when I replaced my clutch and everything said screw it and bought the tick. Was a bitch to get in but after it was in, i can shift every gear without lifting my foot off the gas

A few people have told me it's probably just the master that is bad, and that i shouldn't even need to bleed it since there shouldn't be air in the system anyway.

I just find it odd that a master would be bad on a 38k mile car...someone else mentioned the rubber line that connects the master to the reservoir could be swelled up internally. Any more thoughts? I saw a working master on here for 50 shipped, that seemed fairly reasonable if i decide to go that route.

Just gonna buy a brand new one for 65. Can't afford 300+ for a tick.

A lot of guys have found the drill mod worked for them, just drill out the small orifice in the clutch master line and replace fluid with DOT 4...I'm having similar issues with my car and I'm gonna try that first before I start replacing parts

I had to use a bench grinder to thin out my 7/16 socket to bleed mine. Didn't have to take a lot off. But, it wouldn't work otherwise.

I'm just going to buy the Duralast Master from Autozone and then cut a hole in the tunnel to get to the screw. Will post results. I've always noticed the shifter not "snapping" into gears and not feeling the smoothest, hopefully this new master fixes it. I'm not overly concerned about high RPM shifts as i don't race the car.

Replaced with the Duralast, bled, works fine. YAY