3th Gear, high rpm shifting issues
10-07-2013, 11:18 AM
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3th Gear, high rpm shifting issues I have 2002 SS with ceramic coated headers and high rpm shifting issues.
I got on it on up to 4th gear and all was good until my 3-4 shift. It got difficult but went into gear. After that it acts like it is slipping toward the top of 4th(no slip in lower gears) and I got a STIFF clutch pedal. I think I still have a fluid boil issue.
I wrapped my clutch line with header wrap and heater hose outside that. I have a tick master and fresh ATE Super blue inside.
With normal driving everything feels just fine.
Slave, master, and clutch all have about 30,000 miles on them.
I think I need some better clutch fluid in there.
I got on it on up to 4th gear and all was good until my 3-4 shift. It got difficult but went into gear. After that it acts like it is slipping toward the top of 4th(no slip in lower gears) and I got a STIFF clutch pedal. I think I still have a fluid boil issue.
I wrapped my clutch line with header wrap and heater hose outside that. I have a tick master and fresh ATE Super blue inside.
With normal driving everything feels just fine.
Slave, master, and clutch all have about 30,000 miles on them.
I think I need some better clutch fluid in there.
11-05-2013, 02:20 PM
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Car finally broke down. I lost fluid in the master cylinder reservoir so I know I have a hydraulic leak. My Tick MC has 34k on it and the same for the SC. I'm thinking the SC is what blew. I seem to keep having hydraulic issues every 34k-40k miles. I'm wondering if my pressure plate is getting weak around that time too.
11-07-2013, 05:12 PM
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This issue of low clutch and/or hydraulics life seems to happen with stock mc's and the tick mc.
I was using a southbend 638lb/ft clutch for my 362rwtq car. This might have been part of the problem.
My adjustment on my tick mc... It seems like it sits just a little above the brake pedal.
The way I adjusted it is car running, clutch in and held, shift to 1st while still holding clutch pedal to floor, rev to 4500-5000rpm and hold. If I noticed the car moving forward while on a flat surface, then adjust the pedal out half a turn.
I feel like I found that fine line because I stopped on the exact half turn that stopped the car from moving. Also, I noticed my clutch fluid stayed clean after that. Before the change in turns on the pedal, the fluid would get DARK quickly.
I was using a southbend 638lb/ft clutch for my 362rwtq car. This might have been part of the problem.
My adjustment on my tick mc... It seems like it sits just a little above the brake pedal.
The way I adjusted it is car running, clutch in and held, shift to 1st while still holding clutch pedal to floor, rev to 4500-5000rpm and hold. If I noticed the car moving forward while on a flat surface, then adjust the pedal out half a turn.
I feel like I found that fine line because I stopped on the exact half turn that stopped the car from moving. Also, I noticed my clutch fluid stayed clean after that. Before the change in turns on the pedal, the fluid would get DARK quickly.
Last edited by 7camaro7; 11-08-2013 at 08:42 AM.
11-09-2013, 12:06 PM
#5
The clutch pedal being just a bit higher than the brake pedal seems to be the concensus across the board for what most people have it set to across the forums, myself included. I can't imagine you having fluid boiling issues, especially with having the Tick hydraulic line, wrapped, and Super blue fluid. Usually the clutch pedal gets soft/spongey on people. I don't think I can remember anyone ever saying the pedal getting stiff on them.