New Clutch,Slave,Master not working!
11-02-2013, 03:02 PM
#1
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New Clutch,Slave,Master not working! After installing the new clutch package, along with a new slave, and OEM master cylinder, I still have the same problem when this all started. I have no leaks under the car. I torqued everything to the specs, and used the loctite where it's called for. New pilot bearing also. The Tick speed bleader also.
Without the car running it goes into all gears.
With the car running, won't go into any gears.
Start the car in gear, with the clutch pedal pushed in, and it tries to move.
I have 67,000 miles on the car, and it's not or never been to the track. At one point it was a D/Driver, so it's been well taken care of.
I have bled bled and bled. I ran about 1/2 quart of fluid trying to bleed. I only saw a little air right at the beginning. The pedal feels no different no matter what I do. The speed bleader is a blessing but what the heck have I missed or done wrong?
Without the car running it goes into all gears.
With the car running, won't go into any gears.
Start the car in gear, with the clutch pedal pushed in, and it tries to move.
I have 67,000 miles on the car, and it's not or never been to the track. At one point it was a D/Driver, so it's been well taken care of.
I have bled bled and bled. I ran about 1/2 quart of fluid trying to bleed. I only saw a little air right at the beginning. The pedal feels no different no matter what I do. The speed bleader is a blessing but what the heck have I missed or done wrong?
11-02-2013, 07:10 PM
#3
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I did, but after it was installed, I even had a mechanic come by, and after I bled it, he did his thing under the car and had me bleed it while he took it off the tranny. I never got really any air from the master.
11-02-2013, 10:44 PM
#4
my car is LT1 so diffrent hydraulics
sounds like air is still in the system not allowing hydraulics to release clutch
I read on another thread something about air getting in through the threads of bleed screw when lose during bleeding and to use a temporary thread sealer on them to stop it, IIRC something to that effect.
this problem happened after you replaced MC & slave, right?
sounds like air is still in the system not allowing hydraulics to release clutch
I read on another thread something about air getting in through the threads of bleed screw when lose during bleeding and to use a temporary thread sealer on them to stop it, IIRC something to that effect.
this problem happened after you replaced MC & slave, right?
11-03-2013, 01:23 AM
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How's the pedal feel? If the hydraulics are good and air-free it should feel solid. no spongey-ness and have a reasonable weight to it. The speed bleeder, where it connects to the slave like the factory bleeder did, there are two nuts and both have to be tightened. When i installed mine i made the mistake of only tightening one in my haste to finish. This caused what appeared to be an effective bleed but in reality did nothing because there was a breach in the line 
This oversight, however, caused fluid evidence and was quickly fixed when found.
Another possibility, maybe if the friction disk isn't facing the right way. You might have noticed the friction disk isn't symmetrical when viewed from the side, and that one face protrudes more than the other. The protruding face usually faces the flexplate. Though i don't know what issues would be caused by installing it backwards. And of course make sure you use a clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch (except people who've done it so many times it's 2nd nature)
Other than that i don't know man. I have pretty much the exact same setup as you and ran into no issues. If it's not air in the line (which it could be) then something somewhere isn't lined up or tightened just right.
This oversight, however, caused fluid evidence and was quickly fixed when found. Another possibility, maybe if the friction disk isn't facing the right way. You might have noticed the friction disk isn't symmetrical when viewed from the side, and that one face protrudes more than the other. The protruding face usually faces the flexplate. Though i don't know what issues would be caused by installing it backwards. And of course make sure you use a clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch (except people who've done it so many times it's 2nd nature)
Other than that i don't know man. I have pretty much the exact same setup as you and ran into no issues. If it's not air in the line (which it could be) then something somewhere isn't lined up or tightened just right.
11-03-2013, 06:14 AM
#6
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my car is LT1 so diffrent hydraulics
sounds like air is still in the system not allowing hydraulics to release clutch
I read on another thread something about air getting in through the threads of bleed screw when lose during bleeding and to use a temporary thread sealer on them to stop it, IIRC something to that effect.
this problem happened after you replaced MC & slave, right?
sounds like air is still in the system not allowing hydraulics to release clutch
I read on another thread something about air getting in through the threads of bleed screw when lose during bleeding and to use a temporary thread sealer on them to stop it, IIRC something to that effect.
this problem happened after you replaced MC & slave, right?
No, the problem of not getting into any gear is the same problem I started with before I changed the Master, Slave, and the clutch.
Thanks
11-03-2013, 06:32 AM
#7
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How's the pedal feel? If the hydraulics are good and air-free it should feel solid. no spongey-ness and have a reasonable weight to it. The speed bleeder, where it connects to the slave like the factory bleeder did, there are two nuts and both have to be tightened. When i installed mine i made the mistake of only tightening one in my haste to finish. This caused what appeared to be an effective bleed but in reality did nothing because there was a breach in the line This oversight, however, caused fluid evidence and was quickly fixed when found.
Another possibility, maybe if the friction disk isn't facing the right way. You might have noticed the friction disk isn't symmetrical when viewed from the side, and that one face protrudes more than the other. The protruding face usually faces the flexplate. Though i don't know what issues would be caused by installing it backwards. And of course make sure you use a clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch (except people who've done it so many times it's 2nd nature)
Other than that i don't know man. I have pretty much the exact same setup as you and ran into no issues. If it's not air in the line (which it could be) then something somewhere isn't lined up or tightened just right.
This oversight, however, caused fluid evidence and was quickly fixed when found. Another possibility, maybe if the friction disk isn't facing the right way. You might have noticed the friction disk isn't symmetrical when viewed from the side, and that one face protrudes more than the other. The protruding face usually faces the flexplate. Though i don't know what issues would be caused by installing it backwards. And of course make sure you use a clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch (except people who've done it so many times it's 2nd nature)
Other than that i don't know man. I have pretty much the exact same setup as you and ran into no issues. If it's not air in the line (which it could be) then something somewhere isn't lined up or tightened just right.
Well, I remembered putting the copper washer against the slave as it said, and tightening that end down reall good, because of thinking about it leaking, so I should be good there. But I might have to jack the car back up and let someone pump and hopefully I can see or hear a sign of it leaking. So far there are no signs of leaking on the ground or from the housing.
I was careful to put the disk the right way, I read about that happening, but I made sure. I went so slow on each step that I thought I would never finish!
But I didn't want any problems on second guessing my work.
Yea, I'm just going to jack it back up and double check for air sounds and leaks. I might bring the speed bleeder back to the underside below the car and try to gravity bleed the line as some have done. Plus check the connection on the master where it goes into the tranny. For some reason either I still have air and haven't gotten it out, or that OEM master is causing something, even though it's new. Thanks
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11-03-2013, 12:05 PM
#10
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I read about it happening to a guy on here. I know anything is possible, but damn I hope that's not the case! I worked really hard on reading up on how to and what not to do. That would be the last thing for me to do, but I'm back on blocks incase I did something stupid like that. Thanks
11-04-2013, 04:02 PM
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i am having the same problem i havent changed the master out but i have a new slave and my car can be shifted at low rpms into gear while it is running but it willnt shift at high rpm like when i am racing. Rev. is extremely hard to get into also so if you find your problem plz let me know i had also put a clutch and in the car then a week later the slave went out pulled put new one on worked for 3 months then this happened when i got on it leaving a store
11-04-2013, 04:17 PM
#13
OP where is your clutch pedal adjusted to in relation to the brake pedal with the Tick?
Dragoon, have you tried the revving up the car in gear with the clutch pedal depressed to see if the car creeps forward on level ground?
i am having the same problem i havent changed the master out but i have a new slave and my car can be shifted at low rpms into gear while it is running but it willnt shift at high rpm like when i am racing. Rev. is extremely hard to get into also so if you find your problem plz let me know i had also put a clutch and in the car then a week later the slave went out pulled put new one on worked for 3 months then this happened when i got on it leaving a store
11-04-2013, 05:03 PM
#14
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Far as I know I don't need shims or a spacer.
[QUOTE=SNLPerformance;17799756]OP where is your clutch pedal adjusted to in relation to the brake pedal with the Tick?
I don't have the Tick Master C...yet. I have the Tick Speed Bleeder. I have a new OEM master cylinder, a new slave and a new Clutch. I have the same problem before I bought everything. No gears while running. Pedal doesn't seem to have alot of pressure. But it's different since the spring broke the day my clutch went out.
[QUOTE=SNLPerformance;17799756]OP where is your clutch pedal adjusted to in relation to the brake pedal with the Tick?
I don't have the Tick Master C...yet. I have the Tick Speed Bleeder. I have a new OEM master cylinder, a new slave and a new Clutch. I have the same problem before I bought everything. No gears while running. Pedal doesn't seem to have alot of pressure. But it's different since the spring broke the day my clutch went out.
11-04-2013, 05:40 PM
#15
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i am having the same problem i havent changed the master out but i have a new slave and my car can be shifted at low rpms into gear while it is running but it willnt shift at high rpm like when i am racing. Rev. is extremely hard to get into also so if you find your problem plz let me know i had also put a clutch and in the car then a week later the slave went out pulled put new one on worked for 3 months then this happened when i got on it leaving a store
11-05-2013, 09:37 AM
#16
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[QUOTE=sleepinghawk;17799872]Far as I know I don't need shims or a spacer.
the clutch line is new because its connected to the master, correct?
OP where is your clutch pedal adjusted to in relation to the brake pedal with the Tick?
I don't have the Tick Master C...yet. I have the Tick Speed Bleeder. I have a new OEM master cylinder, a new slave and a new Clutch. I have the same problem before I bought everything. No gears while running. Pedal doesn't seem to have alot of pressure. But it's different since the spring broke the day my clutch went out.
I don't have the Tick Master C...yet. I have the Tick Speed Bleeder. I have a new OEM master cylinder, a new slave and a new Clutch. I have the same problem before I bought everything. No gears while running. Pedal doesn't seem to have alot of pressure. But it's different since the spring broke the day my clutch went out.
11-05-2013, 11:54 AM
#17
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[QUOTE=disc0monkey;17801405]
The line from the new Master C Is old.The new MC did not come with a new line..... The slave is new with a new Tick Speed bleeder. The clutch and everything about it is new. The pilot bearing is new.
I'm going to un hook the line from the MC that connects to the slave and bleed the hell out of it. Then I'm going to bleed everything by means of the Tick speed bleeder. If there is air which I hope there is, I hope this will move it out.
Everynight after I do some bleeding which results in no air I actually pump the clutch 3-5 times and leave it and never find any signs of fluid under the car. I rather my problem be in the new OEM MC, which I couldn't find anything wrong with it as far as leaking or not holding.. If it is I'll try the Tick adjuster one.
The line from the new Master C Is old.The new MC did not come with a new line..... The slave is new with a new Tick Speed bleeder. The clutch and everything about it is new. The pilot bearing is new.
I'm going to un hook the line from the MC that connects to the slave and bleed the hell out of it. Then I'm going to bleed everything by means of the Tick speed bleeder. If there is air which I hope there is, I hope this will move it out.
Everynight after I do some bleeding which results in no air I actually pump the clutch 3-5 times and leave it and never find any signs of fluid under the car. I rather my problem be in the new OEM MC, which I couldn't find anything wrong with it as far as leaking or not holding.. If it is I'll try the Tick adjuster one.
11-05-2013, 12:18 PM
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Well Damn! Stopped by home to check on the car before going back to work, and open the car door and what do I find on my rubber floor mat! Fluid. Well I guess I got my sign of a leak now. It's coming out of the top of the Master . Sure hope this $60 bucks I spent is the only reason why I have no gears. Time for a new Adjusting Tick Master.
11-05-2013, 03:45 PM
#20
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