SSkull

iTrader: (3)

Just had a new clutch put in, clutch wasn't slipping really bad, but it was starting to pop up and I didn't like it so I had a shop put a new clutch in.

Now before the shifter was pretty smooth, has a ws6 store short stick, stock hurst shifter. Before it felt tight, and slipped into the gears with no issue aside from occasionally having problems from a high rpm shift where it wouldn't let me through to the next gear(which was from the factory pressure plate I believe). But other than that I could almost just slip it into the next gear with a little pressure. All the internals, forks, everything have about 15k miles on them so I know there's no issue there.

Now I have to force it maybe %70 of the time, it feels notchy, feels like the shifter doesn't want to go through the gate. Just like **** basically. What I want to know is if this is normal from a new clutch(I figured it's probably just from the break-in process and it'll be back to normal by the time the first 500 miles are done), or if I should go back to the shop and have it checked out. I asked the guy since he's done a couple other 4L60E's, and T56 transmission rebuilds for us in the past, and he said it's just from the new clutch breaking in.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

no it's most certainly not normal. It sounds like the clutch isnt fully releasing. possibly because the hydraulics need to be bled or less likely is that the clutch needs a shim even though it an oem type.

put the car in 1st gear with the clutch in and rev the car to 5k and see if it creeps forward. if so then the clutch isnt releasing properly

SSkull

iTrader: (3)

Just tried out the 5k rpm thing, haven't gone over 3k rpm in the car other than this since the new clutch was put in. Soon as I approach about 4500 rpm it starts creeping like you said. I checked fluid resevoir as well about an hour ago, back when I put the drivetrain in the car, I had a small bit of air which I flushed out by using that trick with a one man bleeder and pushing the air out from the resevoir. Tried it again right now, and there was pressure which released after the first time doing it.

After that it did seem to go into each gear somewhat easier, but still a good bit more difficult than with the previous clutch, and it does creep forward around 4500-5000 rpm.

Could it need to be shimmed like you said in this case?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

it may be personally though it sounds like a bleeding issue VERY rarely does an oem clutch need a shim. you would have to take the trans out to measure though

SSkull

iTrader: (3)

Well I'm taking it in tomorrow morning. Hopefully it'll be sorted out and I wont have any further issues. I appreciate your help.