CodyCamaro13

I am having a major frustration here!I have a 98 Camaro Z28 SS,I did an ls6 Corvette c5 zo6 swap with lots of mods with a Borg Warner T56 set up with a full stage 3 clutch kit,suspension and chassis is fully built and exhaust is all aftermarket,have a hurst short throw shifter,the only thing stock really on my car is the master cylinder unit itself and my ls1 fuel rail covers,I have the braided line and did the drill mod,anyways after the full conversion was done the car ran fine and has been for the past couple of months,well last week I went to see Annabelle(good movie)and when I got out of the movie and left I was just about to hit the highway coming off the on-ramp and shift to 2nd and my pedal hit the floor and stayed down,I pulled off to the side,hit my hazards and pulled it up by hand,tried to push it down,it was rock hard,so I had it towed back home,next day I put it on the lift and noticed my quick disconnect wasn't connected to my slave (reason for the hard pedal)so I re-bent all the prongs and stuck it back in,pedal started going back down again,but still wouldn't come back up and when it is all the way down it will start but will not go into ANY gear,so for the past couple days I have been trying to bleed it in every way possible(that I know of)and none of it worked so today I pulled the m/c out and looked it over,everything seemed fine,no leaks or anything,not that i could see on the exterior of the m/c anyways,so I flushed it and flushed the hoses to be sure,bled it while it was out and put it back in.....STILL nothing,feels like no pressure is building up to push the pedal back up and so far the reservoir seems to stay full and clean with the clear honey color,the slave isnt leaking either and the clutch and all that is fine,I am truly STUMPED,so I gave up and decided to jump on here and ask you guys

CodyCamaro13

I am having a major frustration here!I have a 98 Camaro Z28 SS,I did an ls6 Corvette c5 zo6 swap with lots of mods with a Borg Warner T56 set up with a full stage 3 clutch kit,suspension and chassis is fully built and exhaust is all aftermarket,have a hurst short throw shifter,the only thing stock really on my car is the master cylinder unit itself and my ls1 fuel rail covers,I have the braided line and did the drill mod,anyways after the full conversion was done the car ran fine and has been for the past couple of months,well last week I went to see Annabelle(good movie)and when I got out of the movie and left I was just about to hit the highway coming off the on-ramp and shift to 2nd and my pedal hit the floor and stayed down,I pulled off to the side,hit my hazards and pulled it up by hand,tried to push it down,it was rock hard,so I had it towed back home,next day I put it on the lift and noticed my quick disconnect wasn't connected to my slave (reason for the hard pedal)so I re-bent all the prongs and stuck it back in,pedal started going back down again,but still wouldn't come back up and when it is all the way down it will start but will not go into ANY gear,so for the past couple days I have been trying to bleed it in every way possible(that I know of)and none of it worked so today I pulled the m/c out and looked it over,everything seemed fine,no leaks or anything,not that i could see on the exterior of the m/c anyways,so I flushed it and flushed the hoses to be sure,bled it while it was out and put it back in.....STILL nothing,feels like no pressure is building up to push the pedal back up and so far the reservoir seems to stay full and clean with the clear honey color,the slave isnt leaking either and the clutch and all that is fine,I am truly STUMPED,so I gave up and decided to jump on here and ask you guys

Fry_

Ok you say you have a "full stage 3 clutch kit" I can't say that means much without at least saying what brand of clutch it is, or if you replaced the slave cylinder. Is the braided line your talking about a remote speed bleeder if not I don't know what your talking about there either. Unless you have a problem with the parts you have or are bleeding everything wrong your best bet is to buy a Tick Performance master cylinder because the stock one is a big P.O.S.

Also in the future try doing a search as this is a common problem and post it in the correct section there is a manual transmission section for a reason.

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

Replace the slave cylinder regardless, due to its age, and see where that takes you. It's a $100 part. And most likely the problem IMO.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

2002kirk

iTrader: (3)

hey brother, i would have to agree on the tick master cylinder. worst thing is that youll know for sure the master is good.

CodyCamaro13

Well see that's the thing,I did replace the master cylinder,the slave is not leaking at all and by my hand seems to be engaging correctly,but yet It still will not go in any gear while the car is on and the clutch pedal(with my car on or off)still wont get much pressure,it gets a little but not by any means enough,and when just a little pressure is applied the pedal falls the rest of the way by itself,and it's a SPEC stage 3 clutch kit

CodyCamaro13

Oh and no I do not have a remote bleeder the transmission tech told me not to get it....not sure why though

CodyCamaro13

Well when I dropped everything the slave wasn't leaking and it moves fine by my hand,but when put on it won't let it go into any gear while the car is on

Fry_

Your transmission tech is a f*$^ing retard then. It sounds like you still have a lot of air in the system and also new stock replacement MC's are junk just like GM ones are, they don't move enough fluid to fully disengage most clutches. Get a Tick MC and have fun bleeding everything without a remote bleeder, I'd suggest drilling a 1 inch hole the drivers side of the transmission tunnel or reverse bleeding it with a Might Vac.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...under-car.html
Oh and sense you have a Spec clutch it's also possible you need to shim your slave cylinder.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html

CodyCamaro13

We did the shim and everything was working fine for a couple months after the swap,when we do things like this we try to do everything right the first time so we don't have to go back later correcting eveything but then this happened and now it's probably the easiest fix but we can't seem to do it,but then again I'm a motor guy,I do motor work,I've only put 4 transmissions in cars,and 2 of those are t56,the first time I put it in my 97 formula firebird,but we never had this problem,after we did the t56 swap we didn't have any problems,we've thought of everything WE know about transmissions especially this one and we can't figure it out,I'm going to try the reverse method tomorrow morning,the mighty vac from the reservoir and hope that is the problem,I'll post back up on here if it doesnt,but even if it does I'm probably still going to invest in the tic mc

CodyCamaro13

Oh and yeah I've thought he was a dumb A$$ a couple times,but then again like I said I only know a little about transmissions,I didn't want to question him at that point haha

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

Sorry, I meant master cylinder.

Fry_

Thats why when I have a question about a part I call the vendor that sold/made the part. I have a good friend that is very knowledgeable about f-bodys question my choice in fluids for my Tick MC and Tick rebuild T56 but after told him that Joey from Tick told me it's what I should use he started questioning his choices. FYI Tick suggest parts cheap store brand DOT 3 brake fluid and DEX 3 ATF.

CodyCamaro13

Ok guys just figured I'd let you know I finally figured out it was the master cylinder,took it apart and noticed it had an ever so small slice in the seal so I got the tick adjustable MC thanx guys

CodyCamaro13

Ok guys just figured I'd let you know I finally figured out it was the master cylinder,took it apart and noticed it had an ever so small slice in the seal so I got the tick adjustable MC thanx guys