hrcslam

So my Ram HDx clutch got covered in oil from a rear main seal leak (brand new seal too, ugh). In short it caused premature failure of my Ram HDx Cltuch disc and I was due for a replacement as I was slipping too much to daily drive it even.

The Ram HDx was a decent clutch and provided good bite if I did a low RPM launch or a clutch dump to burn out. But, if I would do high RPM clutch slips it would continue slipping even after I let completely off. It did this even before my engine was rebuilt and without a leaking rear main seal. I liked the clutch as it was easy to slip in stop and go traffic, but the clutch feel was heavy (which I liked).

My biggest grip with the Ram HDx was the slipping when I didn't want it too. For instance, if I would shift from 1st to 2nd without lifting on the throttle it would slip real bad and I'd have to let off. But, if I let off I would have no slipping.

The HDx was installed on a turned flywheel and was installed as a complete kit from Summit (pilot bushing, pressure plate, throw out bearing), I also had my machine shop balance the pressure plate to 1gm . I had it installed on my CAI/Cat Back car and on my 414rwhp rebuild and it drove the same either way until the oil got to the disc and ruined it. Once the oil got to it the clutch was barely able to get me home.

Today I installed the McLeod 261571 clutch disc on a resurfaced flywheel with a new clutch kit from the local parts store (pressure plate, pilot bushing, throw out bearing). I again had the pressure plate balanced to 1gm.

The Ram HDx Pressure plate is definitely modified to make more pressure and you can feel it under your left foot. I noticed only after installing the stock replacement pressure plate (LT4 style) with the McLeod. This new PP is much easier to push down. My wife might even be able to drive my car now!

The McLeod clutch disc is a sprung hub dual friction clutch disc, and it BITES! When I first let off the clutch I was expecting the typical high release pedal angle and got the car to lurch instead. Wow. The clutch bite is spread much further over the release of the pedal now. So modulating slip is really easy, but took some getting used to (about 5 stop and go's for me).

I am now in the break in phase and will be taking it easy for the next month or two and I'll report back once I can do some power driving and shifting.

First impressions are good (damn near great!). Releasing the clutch and getting great bite (enough to slide the rear out a little bit) without even full release is leaps better than it used to be. But, to be fair the last time I drove my car with the Ram HDx clutch it was worn bad and oil soaked.

I do recommend the Ram HDx for guys at full weight and pushing 350-375rwhp or less. But, even with that this McLeod disc bites better on my 400+rwhp set up than the Ram HDx did on my ~260-280rwhp set up.

All in all I spent ~$480 for the McLeod set up (pilot bushing, pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch disc, trans fluid, rear main seal, resurface flywheel and balancing of the pressure plate). The Ram HDx was about $35 more than this set up with the same parts and machine work plus rear main seal.

hrcslam

UPDATE: It's been a few months and a few thousand miles I think.

This clutch grabs very nicely and only slips when I tell it to. The only thing I've noticed is from a stop at low RPM trying get up and going behind slow traffic (like a Camry or Prius) I get chatter until I reach~5mph. If I'm under ~1500 rpms (my cam doesn't like under ~1500 mind you) and take of SLOWLY in traffic it chatters. Nothing too bad, but definitely noticeable. Anything over ~1500 rpms or taking off quicker than a Prius is fine and smooth though. This clutch will light up my 295/35R18 Continental ExtremContact DWS's on hot dry pavement in 2nd gear from 45mph no problem. Yes, I need sticker tires, but those are the only thing saving my rear end from becoming a bunch of smaller pieces of scrap metal.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

I'll agree with you on the HDX, it's not up to more power or heavy abuse. I broke a hub spring in mine with a mild H/C. I've since moved to the Powergrip which is much better for my power level, while still slipping fine. Just out of curiosity, what PP came with the McLeod unit? Was it a Valeo or chinese knockoff?

BALLSS

Op

your clutch combo using a parts store PP and McLeod DF disc has been done by many.

I suspect the PP is a clone as Valeo stopped making them for the LT1/4 several years ago IIRC.

My Mcleod Street Twin has a "clone" PP

the DF disc will chatter as the ceramic puc is more aggressive than the organic side. You may find the "sweet spot" on engagement technique in stop/go traffic but my experience is with a puc type disc is on a daily basis there will be some engagement situations where you get chatter (reverse, starting from a hill, etc)

The McLeod disc is a good piece and it will hold more power than just a organic disc. Always a trade off once you move up to more aggressive disc materials

hrcslam

Yeah, I know few have done the combo. No actual reviews on it that I could find so I figured I'd share my experience.

Yes, I do get chatter (it was expected, but I was hopeful that the newer McLoed disc wouldn't have any as McLoed replaced the 800 series with the 500 series to eliminate the complaints) but only in the circumstances I listed above. The sweet spot is a little too much acceleration for stop and go traffic though. Once I hit about 5 to 10mph there's no issues though. I just have to jump to that speed semi-briskly to avoid chatter.

hrcslam

It's an O'Reilly Auto Parts Special (Valeo Clone: Likely Chinese). I was considering a more robust unit from another place that ****** recommended (I can't remember the place, but they make some high quality stuff for sure), but decided to try this combo as money was tight (isn't it always though?).

BALLSS

I think you are referring to ClutchNet. They take a "clone" PP and disassemble it, heat up the diaphragm and adjust the angle to get a higher clamp force. The PP though is just the same clone LT4 all clutch companies use. I went to their shop to see them do this and also saw how the made the various disc used in their clutches. Their hubs were made in-house and not off-shore crap.

SPEC claims they make a adjustment to increase clamp force although their representative claimed he could not disclose "the colonel's secret recipe" for it. Pictures he did show of the machine that supposedly showed a digital readout of clamp force...turned out to be a rivet press. I contacted the company that makes the machine SPEC noted and they said it was a rivet press, not a load reading machine.

McLeod said they do not make any adjustments, can't, to the LT4 PP. Billy @ McLeod said they have their hubs milled in the US, not off-shore for their discs

There may be some old stock real valeo PP/kits in some chain stores.

Back when I first swapped to T56 the Autozone (Duralast brand IIRC) was a real Valeo PP & disc. Now their replacement kit is the same clone with a crapier disc with only 4 springs

Back when I did the swap in 05 the clutch to get was to buy the AZ $200 kit (valeo) and the $175 McLeod DF disc. Back then the puc part of that disc was Kevlar which chattered a lot. They changed their DF disc to ceramic puc material. IMHO Kevlar and street use do not go together

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Well that's unfortunate to hear. It's getting harder and harder to find quality parts for older cars. I bought my RAM kit years ago and was happy to receive a Valeo PP, guess I can't expect that anymore.