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The problem started slowly. At first reverse was sometimes very hard to get into with the car running. It's an 02 TA with an iron 6.0. If I tried to put into reverse with the car off it would just grind on start up. Then it would no longer go into reverse while running. Now it will not go into first either when running. I've replaced the master with a dura last and done the drill mod to the line. I bench bleed the master and bleed through the slave bleeder valve. The pedal feels the same and still does not disengage. My plan is to replace the slave with a dura last and I planed on buying an Ls7 clutch and flywheel kit off of eBay. My question is what all can I check to make sure I get the fly wheel shimed/balanced correctly and slave installed/shimmed right? I may be over thinking this but I am going to be installing parts on an engine that was not originally equipped in this car. Any experience on any of my issues will be greatly appreciated, as I only want to do this job once!
I could not figure out how to copy and paste the link from eBay but if you search ls7 clutch kit it is the first one that comes up and is for sale for 469.96. Is that a good one to buy?
I could not figure out how to copy and paste the link from eBay but if you search ls7 clutch kit it is the first one that comes up and is for sale for 469.96. Is that a good one to buy?
I don't recommend the LS7 clutch. I think you'll be happier with a S1 or S2 monster for about the same money. You shouldn't need to shim it, and it'll be lighter, so you'll have good throttle response.
I had very bad luck with the OEM master cylinders in my TA and ended up springing for an adjustable. They seem expensive until you've done your THIRD master. The drill mod helps with fluid return from the slave, but does little to help with disengagement.
On jack stands running it will go into every Gear no problem. But the low traction light comes on immediately because the wheels are spinning with the clutch in. I only got the grinding in reverse when I put it in reverse before I started the car only tried that twice. I thought it just didn't go in all the way. If I start the car in first gear on the ground it doesn't grind but creeps forward with the clutch in, making me think it's just not disengaging. Could you explain a little more about the irreversible damage to the t56. The car still drives just fine as long as I don't come to a stop in neutral cause I'd have to turn it off to get back into first.
I'm having similar issues in my car.
Personally, I would NOT put an Autozone duralast part in my transmission (slave). I would spring for OEM (that's what tick recommends)
I going to install a tilton MC from a board member. I'm hoping I won't have to get into the trans to deal with the slave, but.....knowing my luck I'm all!ost planning on it.
I'm fighting with my hydraulics right now too. its a 1997 camaro with t56 and cant seem to get it bled right or whatever.. I'm certain I had a bad slave cyl and bought a autozone slave and also figured I'd change the master too. both went in and bled procedure was alright but, now it seems like I'm just not getting enough push to completely disengage the clutch. It will go into gear but, requires some muscle. I put the rear wheels in the air and clutch to the floor in first and the wheels will move.
on and off for two days now, and about $130into this between parts and fluid... hehe.. bleh.. cant believe the autozone parts are bad... especially for something this simple. this isn't some super precision part, just a basic hydraulic clutch.. damnit. so annoying.
ls7 clutch package is too heavy for the stock hydraulics , its well documented on here for gear blocking issues , the vette it came stock in (Z06) had better hydraulics . I have the ls7 setup and as soon as its in the budget its getting replaced with something stock weight or lighter.
ls7 clutch package is too heavy for the stock hydraulics , its well documented on here for gear blocking issues , the vette it came stock in (Z06) had better hydraulics . I have the ls7 setup and as soon as its in the budget its getting replaced with something stock weight or lighter.
That and the AZ master and slave aren't even as good as stock. Double hamstrung.
Suggest getting the GM slave from Tick performance. If you're dead set on keeping the ls7 clutch, get the tick master also. The GM slave is fine. It's the GM master that didn't have the nuts in the F body
Well, I am pretty sure it is not my issue (screw caught between pressure plate and clutch disc), but in my research, I read some other possible causes. If the clutch pedal feels normal you can probably rule out air in the system. If the pilot bearing in the crank went bad that could cause the input shaft to keep spinning even when you disengage the clutch. You said it has gotten progressively worse which also aligns with a pilot bearing going bad. I don't know of any way to check that without pulling the trans unfortunately.
Tick master cylinder fixed mine. My problem was the clutch not completely disengaging with pedal to the floor. Didnt matter how much bleeding or whether it was bench bled or not.. had new stock parts and it was a no go. Wish I had bought the aftermarket one and made better use of two saturdays in a row messing with clutch woes.
Well, I am pretty sure it is not my issue (screw caught between pressure plate and clutch disc), but in my research, I read some other possible causes. If the clutch pedal feels normal you can probably rule out air in the system. If the pilot bearing in the crank went bad that could cause the input shaft to keep spinning even when you disengage the clutch. You said it has gotten progressively worse which also aligns with a pilot bearing going bad. I don't know of any way to check that without pulling the trans unfortunately.
I agree, if pedal feels good you go something going on mechanically with clutch or flywheel. Pull the damn transmission and check it out, not too hard to do. I had similar symptoms and found out my disc seized to flywheel.
I agree, if pedal feels good you go something going on mechanically with clutch or flywheel. Pull the damn transmission and check it out, not too hard to do. I had similar symptoms and found out my disc seized to flywheel.
Hey Y'all! I'm back with the same F'n problem again. hehe..
I pulled the slave and tried to see if I could squeeze out anymore air bubbles that way and was noticing the clutch fork that the slave pushes on was really loose and was easy to jiggle around. I will be pulling the tranny here eventually to see if there's something obviously screwed up inside there but, what exactly have you guys seen or found that would seem like the clutch just wont completely disengage? When you say "pilot bearing" your talking about the throw out bearing right? the center piece that the clutch fork is on, right? My current clutch is a Ram Powergrip HD and the flywheel is a spec billet steel one... both are at least 5-6 years old and has at least 50-60k miles... It still grabs fine and I didn't feel any slippage prior to this pain in the *** problem coming back. any more ideas or pictures of what you guys found in yours would be nice.
Hey Y'all! I'm back with the same F'n problem again. hehe..
I pulled the slave and tried to see if I could squeeze out anymore air bubbles that way and was noticing the clutch fork that the slave pushes on was really loose and was easy to jiggle around. I will be pulling the tranny here eventually to see if there's something obviously screwed up inside there but, what exactly have you guys seen or found that would seem like the clutch just wont completely disengage? When you say "pilot bearing" your talking about the throw out bearing right? the center piece that the clutch fork is on, right? My current clutch is a Ram Powergrip HD and the flywheel is a spec billet steel one... both are at least 5-6 years old and has at least 50-60k miles... It still grabs fine and I didn't feel any slippage prior to this pain in the *** problem coming back. any more ideas or pictures of what you guys found in yours would be nice.
The pilot bearing goes into the rear of the crankshaft. The nose of the transmission input shaft goes into the pilot bearing. The purpose is to make sure the centerline of the crank and trans input shafts are in perfect alignment.
The throwout bearing rides between the fork and the pressure plate. When you push against the pressure plate, one part (fork) is stationary, and the other part (PP) rotates. The throwout bearing sits between them.
So, I'm really not wamting to believe its internal because a few months back the problem was fixed with autozone slave and tick master. Then gradually after like 3-4 months it went right back to the exact same symptom. Most people here saying the AZ slave is crap also... Any thoughts on Napa slave? Supposedly made by "Luke" brand/name?
Dealer wants $250 for slave and thats a lot to spend for something that Im not totally sure about.
I'm going through this exact thing right now with my car, I got stranded on the road today on my way home from work. I made a pit stop and when i got back into my car, it would not go into any gear, now if the car is shut off it goes into ever gear except reverse just fine. I'm assuming this points towards hydraulics.
By the way 3 days ago I had a brand new Monster s1, new GM slave,Tick MC, new flywheel, and tick Speed bleeder, new throwout bearing and pins installed, all purchased from tick. Not sure whats going on.
99 Camaro ss same issue, clutch doesn't disengage.
I really need advice as I'm not mechanically inclined, so I had the notorious sticking clutch in my car where the pedal would stick to the floor, so o had my mechanic install a new clutch, master cylinder, throw out bearing and slave, now the car will not go into gear without a lot of force, reverse forget about it unless you turn the car off, I dunno what to do at this point. Please please help I cannot afford another expensive repair and do not want to sell my car
I really need advice as I'm not mechanically inclined, so I had the notorious sticking clutch in my car where the pedal would stick to the floor, so o had my mechanic install a new clutch, master cylinder, throw out bearing and slave, now the car will not go into gear without a lot of force, reverse forget about it unless you turn the car off, I dunno what to do at this point. Please please help I cannot afford another expensive repair and do not want to sell my car
Since the mechanic installed all the parts this sounds like something he needs to fix, not you.
With that being said were all the parts used stock? Sounds like the master cylinder is bad, or needs to be bled. Or something like the slave being faulty, needing a shim or the clutch pressure plate being faulty. Start by bleeding the master cylinder.
Since the mechanic installed all the parts this sounds like something he needs to fix, not you.
With that being said were all the parts used stock? Sounds like the master cylinder is bad, or needs to be bled. Or something like the slave being faulty, needing a shim or the clutch pressure plate being faulty. Start by bleeding the master cylinder.
Supposedly all stock oem replacement parts, and I agree but the mechanic is being let's just say not so willing to get it right and saying I don't know how to drive a manual like I haven't owned 9 of these f body cars, that being said I found a LS mechanic who says the same I'm taking it to him on Monday. I'll let you know what happens
02-11-2015, 01:38 PM
Clutch won't disengage 
