Oh no... lsx/t56 mid engine questions..
#21
Just bought the fbody mid plate. I read somewhere that the c5 input shaft was the same as the fbody one. So hopefully the midplate is the last piece of the puzzle. Then figuring out the shifter completely.
#22
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (1)
I was looking at their website, I didn't see much on the drivetrain. Any links to what you're talking about?
I thought it was pretty obvious (from other pictures of the Locust Plethora) there was something in between the front trans. case plate and the bellhousing. With that, it would make sense they'd just retain the Vette front case plate.
Have you made any headway in implementing shift linkage?
Have you made any headway in implementing shift linkage?
#23
#25
So this is where I'm at. That's the c5 t56 with the fbody mid plate. The transmission is in neutral and there is a gap of about 2 1/2". The midplate is pushed all the way into the longer shift rail. I know I'm going to need to cut it down. Does anyone know how much of the shift rail is sticking passed the housing on a fbody t56???
If I cut off 2 1/2" then I know it'll sit flush, but I basically wont be able to get into 2/4/6. So I'll need to cut more, I'm thinking 3" ?? I'm going to rebuild the hole tranny but I don't want to get a new shift rail if I don't have too. Any ideas?
#27
#28
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
You have a vertical detent, reverse lockout, horizontal detent, rail bushing engagement, and shifter location to figure out. If you cut the front end off, that's fine if it's still fully engaged to the front plate bushing while in 1,3,5,R. But you lack a shifter position.
The most straight forward way to do that and keep everything functional except for reverse lock-out is to get the aftermarket lever for center shift. To keep reverse, you could weld a shifter pad to the tailhousing and make a rail that goes to it. You still need to run a shift rail to the cabin.
While informational, the conversion of Vette T56 to GTO write-up doesn't address what you're doing.
The most straight forward way to do that and keep everything functional except for reverse lock-out is to get the aftermarket lever for center shift. To keep reverse, you could weld a shifter pad to the tailhousing and make a rail that goes to it. You still need to run a shift rail to the cabin.
While informational, the conversion of Vette T56 to GTO write-up doesn't address what you're doing.
#31
There it is.. all bolted together.
The input shaft sticks out exactly 1" passed the bellhousing, is that good enough to reach the pilot bearing?
Also, I had to cut exactly 3" off the shift rail in the front to bolt the fbody mid plate on.
Question, I'm using the c5 input and bearing that went to the original mid plate, but when I tighten the bolts down, it clamps on and doesn't let the input shaft spin... are the fbody bearings thinner??
And it exact 30" from bellhousing to center of the axles. So basically 50" from axle to front of the engine, minus accessories. Pretty long but no worries.
The shifter will be going in the mid shift location, and I'll be using the kiesler socket shifter adapter. I thinks it's like $120 from summit, I havent ordered it yet.
All in all I'm pleased so far, unfortunately; when I took apart the trans, I noticed that it will be needing a complete rebuilt but atleast I can start building my tube frame now.
#32
9 Second Club
Behind the outer race of the front bearings inside the front plate there are shims.
You will need to shim these to apply suitable pre-loads to the bearings.
It may simply be a case the shims are too large causing the tightness
Does the input shaft move at all, in any direction ?
You will need to shim these to apply suitable pre-loads to the bearings.
It may simply be a case the shims are too large causing the tightness
Does the input shaft move at all, in any direction ?
#33
Behind the outer race of the front bearings inside the front plate there are shims.
You will need to shim these to apply suitable pre-loads to the bearings.
It may simply be a case the shims are too large causing the tightness
Does the input shaft move at all, in any direction ?
You will need to shim these to apply suitable pre-loads to the bearings.
It may simply be a case the shims are too large causing the tightness
Does the input shaft move at all, in any direction ?
Ahh that's right!.. I even transfered over the shims. I completely forgot that i did . I'll take them off and see if it helps. Thanks!!
#35
I don't have any part numbers on hand but it's basically...
Bellhousing - ls1 fbody camaro
Mid plate - ls1 fbody camaro
C5/C6 t56 and differential
Move the shift rail to It's outer most location (1,3,5,R gears)
Then cut exactly 3" off the shift rail.
Install the fbody mid plate on the transmission, using the bearings from the c5/c6 midplate (don't use the shims)
Now the fbody bellhousing will bolt up ( since it doesn't have the same bolt pattern as the c5/c6 torque tube)
Bolt it all together and done!
I know not much of a right up, but it's pretty straight forward. I haven't done the midshift conversion yet, but I'll post it once I figure it out and I'll be making a custom cable shifter bracket so I can move the shifter into the cabin. But that won't be happening until I start building the tubbed frame.
Bellhousing - ls1 fbody camaro
Mid plate - ls1 fbody camaro
C5/C6 t56 and differential
Move the shift rail to It's outer most location (1,3,5,R gears)
Then cut exactly 3" off the shift rail.
Install the fbody mid plate on the transmission, using the bearings from the c5/c6 midplate (don't use the shims)
Now the fbody bellhousing will bolt up ( since it doesn't have the same bolt pattern as the c5/c6 torque tube)
Bolt it all together and done!
I know not much of a right up, but it's pretty straight forward. I haven't done the midshift conversion yet, but I'll post it once I figure it out and I'll be making a custom cable shifter bracket so I can move the shifter into the cabin. But that won't be happening until I start building the tubbed frame.
#37
#40
Very cool
I am going to be doing exactly the same thing. I have all the parts needed and have been searching for hours to find this combo in hopes that someone had done it, so thanks for posting.
One additional thing I'm also going to be doing is machining what I'll call "transfer cases" they will be chain driven like a chain drive transfer case in a 4x4 (imagine that ) one for each side of the differential outputs. The Tcase will off set the power output to the half shafts further forward close to the bell housing. The type chains I have in mind are from an old 67-72 Cadillac Eldorado FWD with the TH475 trans.
This will allow for a shorter wheel base and a better looking design IMO.
Pictures just for concept. I would make an enclosed/lubed version similar to bottom picture.
One additional thing I'm also going to be doing is machining what I'll call "transfer cases" they will be chain driven like a chain drive transfer case in a 4x4 (imagine that ) one for each side of the differential outputs. The Tcase will off set the power output to the half shafts further forward close to the bell housing. The type chains I have in mind are from an old 67-72 Cadillac Eldorado FWD with the TH475 trans.
This will allow for a shorter wheel base and a better looking design IMO.
Pictures just for concept. I would make an enclosed/lubed version similar to bottom picture.
Last edited by Burning Oil; 07-24-2015 at 02:00 AM.