ADM

Within the same price range, which of these 3 clutches would be most reliable for DD street use and occasional spirited driving?

I like having a stock like clutch pedal feel, even better if softer. Prefer no chatter.

Car had a LUK clutch kit installed by previous owner. However the doofus who installed it didn't bother to loctite the pressure plate bolts. One flew out the bell housing, self adjusting tab on the pressure plate broke. Upon removal 4 bolts were hand tight, only 1 was still properly torqued. Clutch would drive normal but slip at the red line at WOT going from 2-3 after a hard 1st launch. Friction disc looks quite new.

Right now I am only running a custom Y-pipe, Magnaflow cutback and a tune with a raised fuel cut off RPM.

But long tubes and a cam are in the future, maybe heads if I find a decent deal locally.

I am trying to decide between the LS7, SPEC Stage 2 or 2+, RAM 98931 or HD version and the McLeod 75250.

Some input would be helpful.

A friend of mine removed a SPEC which looks like a Stage 1 from his GTO and put in an LS7. He is a short guy but said the clutch pedal was quite stiff. Me being 6'3 might find it acceptable. Has offered me to kit if I wanted, but said the engagement was quite hard and grabby on the SPEC. I was considering using just the pressure plate with the LUK friction disc.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I'd suggest a monster S2,but that's not on your list

whatsa347

iTrader: (6)

McLeod superstreet pro maybe? Ls7 is a hit or miss it seems, get a tick master either way you do things, and they have 10% off right now too. CO speed has a sale too if you want to check that out. Maybe a mantic would work for you, since you'd need one clutch that would last you a while no questions asked.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

you should add a monster stage 1 or 2 to the list. Immediately I'd throw out the ls7 and spec unless you want one of their twin disks. If you want stock drivebaility and pedal feel the mcleod rst is the way to go. A monster level 1 will drive like stock but have a stiffer pedal, stage 2 will drive almost like stock and a stage 3 will give up some manners all will have a harder pedal than stock though.

ADM

My selection is limited to what I can purchase through ebay due to their shipping scheme being the only way to affordably ship a clutch to where I live. Otherwise its $400 to ship the clutch kit alone, let alone a flywheel. And the dealer wants $1100 for an LS7 kit.

I can get the LS7 kit for $630 (found $800 local if I don't want to wait 3 weeks) shipped through ebay, or a McLeod 75250 for $668 shipped or RAM powergrip HD for $547.

Its a daily driver that I beat on and by the looks of things even headers won't be installed, let alone a cam due to family commitments.

Still can't believe that LUK clutch held well with only 1 bolt properly torqued. You can consider 80% of the pressure plate was not even applying pressure onto the friction disc.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Monster S1 kit from tick performance is the clutch disc, PP, flywheel, pilot bearing, release bearing, alignment tool for 630 with free shipping. There is a link to the right ------->>>

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

Are you in Bahrain? PM me, or email me at jsmith@sdparts.com with your info (city) and I'll get you a quote shipped for any brand of clutch you want, including Monster. I can ship to most of Bahrain for way under $400

ADM

The Monster adds the flywheel which I do not really need, but it doesn't really cost much more than the other options I have stated.

I have also been offered a Centerforce locally, but have yet to see it. Owner used it for 600 miles before removing it.

Scoggin Dickey, PM sent!

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Not only that but the synchros in a vette are light years better than a t56 in an fbody. Vettes get triple cone 1-2 and then double cone on the rest. The fbody gets double cone on 1-2 then single friction rings on all the others.

floridave

I am breaking in the RAM one you mentioned right now..its called a "Muscle Car clutch" ....the first few miles were real shaky on engagement, but my 411 PCM was also learning then too, and after driving it for about 50 miles now its smoothing right out..but make no mistake, it it either in or out, and you will find yourself relearning all you knew before with a stock clutch..trust me..lol I thought my teeth were going to fall out when I took off the first time, and now its just a little more aggressive than the factory (1998) LS clutch.

Another thing, it grips like a ****..and Ive done a few hard pulls in first and it shows zero signs of being too weak for my car...Id recommend it from this point...we shall see.

Good luck!
Dave

QwkTrip

iTrader: (23)

LUK actually makes the LS7 clutch for GM and you can get all the parts cheap from RockAuto.com.

But be aware that the LS7 clutch and flywheel combo weighs more than the original LS1 clutch and the car will be slower.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

LS7 clutch/steel flywheel is something like 56lbs.... it will make the car rev noticeably slower than something in the 40lb range...