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Doing my Tick/Monster clutch package, pilot bearing problem

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Old 05-23-2015, 01:29 PM
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Default Doing my Tick/Monster clutch package, pilot bearing problem

First off I want to just say DAMN F$@#ING CAR!!!

Okay, now that I got that off my chest... I'm trying to remove my pilot bearing from the crank on my '99 Z28. I obtained a blind hole puller, it fits nice and snug. I have beat the ever-living snot out of this bearing with the slide hammer and it hasn't budged. My hand is now numb. I'm afraid I'm going to take the car right off the jack stands.

Does anyone have any advice for removing a very stubborn pilot bearing? If I had've known it would be this bad I might've just left it, it seemed OK (even though it has 100k on it)... but I'm probably past that point from beating on it now.

I know there's a lot of creative people on here. Any suggestions?
Old 05-23-2015, 03:27 PM
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Well I dug through a ton of threads here, doesn't seem to be too much advice I haven't tried other than cutting it out or freezing it. I might try the electronics cleaner freeze approach.

Otherwise I either need to rig up a contraption to pull it out or find someone stronger than me.
Old 05-23-2015, 03:34 PM
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well, dude I was there on a 97 Camaro a few years ago. I ended up wrapping a chain and come-along around the rear axle, and ran a bolt into the puller and cranked on the come-along to pull it loose. When that still didn't work, I grabbed a second come-along. I had both feet on the lever and my back against a wheel. When it gave, my wife came running, because it was so loud when it popped she thought it was a gunshot. I thought the chain broke and was quite surprised to see the bearing, puller, and chains had flown out the back under the car and hit the wall behind the car.

My next step was going to be a carbide bit, but the puller was stuck in the crank, so I had no other choice but brute force.
Old 05-23-2015, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
well, dude I was there on a 97 Camaro a few years ago. I ended up wrapping a chain and come-along around the rear axle, and ran a bolt into the puller and cranked on the come-along to pull it loose. When that still didn't work, I grabbed a second come-along. I had both feet on the lever and my back against a wheel. When it gave, my wife came running, because it was so loud when it popped she thought it was a gunshot. I thought the chain broke and was quite surprised to see the bearing, puller, and chains had flown out the back under the car and hit the wall behind the car.

My next step was going to be a carbide bit, but the puller was stuck in the crank, so I had no other choice but brute force.
So I see I'm not the only one who had the jaws of the blind hole puller get stuck behind the bearing.

I was looking at the pilot bearing puller tool that I also bought and I may try to replicate that setup on something that can thread to the blind hole attachment.

Looks like I'll be going the MacGuyver route as well.
Old 05-23-2015, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by szalkerous
So I see I'm not the only one who had the jaws of the blind hole puller get stuck behind the bearing.

I was looking at the pilot bearing puller tool that I also bought and I may try to replicate that setup on something that can thread to the blind hole attachment.

Looks like I'll be going the MacGuyver route as well.
I feel for you, man. I hope you don't have to get as crazy as I did.
Old 05-23-2015, 07:00 PM
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Okay, so I had a brilliant idea. I'm going to create a puller from the bearing accessories in the blind-hole puller toolkit.

Went to Lowes, bought the following:

12" 1-1/4" steel pipe
1-1/4" pipe coupling reducer
12" 5/8" threaded rod
5/8" coupler nut x2
5/8" hardened grade 5 washers

Total Cost: $20

Incoming photos:

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This method stinks, and even with a heavier slide weight I wasn't able to budge the bearing.

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All the parts needed.

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Showing fit inside crank.

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Partial assembly.


So basically you thread the outer coupling nut down and it pulls the bearing out using the steel pipe housing as a leverage against the crank.

I want to dremel down the threads inside the steel reducer on the smaller end so they don't catch with the threaded rod. Will report back with how it works out.
Old 05-24-2015, 01:41 AM
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that's a great idea. Suggestion - use a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley and let it wedge against the ground to keep the crank from rotating while you're cranking on your home made puller.
Old 05-24-2015, 04:29 AM
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Weld a nut onto the bearing, and then you can use that to pull it out. The heat should also help as it cools it should release slightly.
Old 05-24-2015, 08:39 AM
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I cut the bearings and split it, comes right out.
Old 05-24-2015, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Weld a nut onto the bearing, and then you can use that to pull it out. The heat should also help as it cools it should release slightly.
Welding skills/tools are about the only thing I lack these days. Hoping the local tech college holds another series of welding courses again.
Old 05-28-2015, 10:26 AM
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I just did this a couple weeks ago.... And yes, I had the same issues. I used the blind hole puller from AutoZone.

Mine wasn't as stubborn as yours, but I soaked it several times with WD-40 over night, then soaked it again the next day when I was going to pull it. It took an hour or so with me beating has hard as I could with the slide-hammer. It finally started to budge....

I froze the new pilot bushing for a full 24 hours prior to installing it, and even had it on dry-ice. It went right in, with no issues at all!!

Good Luck!! It's definitely a PITA. I considered leaving mine in, even though it only had 30,000 miles, but once I started to remove it, there was no turning back.
Old 05-28-2015, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by CGSmith0524
I just did this a couple weeks ago.... And yes, I had the same issues. I used the blind hole puller from AutoZone.

Mine wasn't as stubborn as yours, but I soaked it several times with WD-40 over night, then soaked it again the next day when I was going to pull it. It took an hour or so with me beating has hard as I could with the slide-hammer. It finally started to budge....

I froze the new pilot bushing for a full 24 hours prior to installing it, and even had it on dry-ice. It went right in, with no issues at all!!

Good Luck!! It's definitely a PITA. I considered leaving mine in, even though it only had 30,000 miles, but once I started to remove it, there was no turning back.
Sounds like my circumstances are exactly like yours, except I bought my blind hole puller because I have a Harbor Freight right down the street, and I had a 20% off coupon I was tired of looking at.

Seriously thinking of doing the freezing trick. I did soak mine in seafoam after banging and cursing at it for hours. I haven't had a chance to get to another round as I was installing a poplock power tailgate lock in my Silverado and some other stuff. Hopefully will get to it soon.
Old 06-01-2015, 02:31 PM
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This took me an hour until i screwed it up so bad it just came out.
Old 06-02-2015, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Zmg00camaross
I cut the bearings and split it, comes right out.
What do you use to cut them out with?
Old 06-06-2015, 08:13 PM
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Okay, so I had a chance to finally try my MacGuyver tool. Failure.

The threads on the blind hold attachment aren't 5/8", they're actually 9/16". Even though the 9/16" threads onto the 5/8", it has enough gap that it slides off the 5/8" coupling nut threads under pressure. This is what I get for letting the guy at Lowe's match this up for me.

Now here's a fun game: Try to find a coupling nut or threaded rod that's 9/16-12 at your local home improvement or hardware store. I'll save you the time: They don't have them.

So I've had to actually buy a 5-pack of coupling nuts and a threaded rod from Zoro.com (only place that sold them, googled my face off trying to find them), and that's gonna run me $27 in total. You can, however, get Grade 8 nuts and washers from Lowe's in the 9/16-12 size.

So this project is on hold until that ships in.

Originally Posted by David_viny
What do you use to cut them out with?
I'd be interested in this answer as well.

Last edited by szalkerous; 06-06-2015 at 08:24 PM.
Old 06-07-2015, 10:16 PM
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Well I just did mine today... What a pain in the ***.

Tried the Harbor freight tool, broke instantly. It didn't even fit right anyway, had to grind some areas which I'm sure made it weaker but yea, I don't recommend.

Tried the OEM Blind hole puller set part #27128, wouldn't budge. Tried some heat, but without a way to cool just the bearing its not much help lol.

At this point I broke out the Dremel tool and cut what I could which really isn't much. But never know, could release just enough pressure to get it out. Tried blind hole puller again and still nothing.

Now what finally worked, OEM Pilot Bearing Puller Attachment part# 27059 and OEM 5-Pound Slide Hammer part# 27033. First it ripped out the bearings and cage only. Tried again and it ripped more of the inner bearing out but not everything, tried AGAIN and finally everything came out. I also used the Dremel in between attempts since I had it out already and the hole was getting bigger so I could cut more.
Also note, you have to take the pin out of one of the puller attachment arms, insert both arms into the bearing, then re-install the pin. I ground down the pin so it slides easier.

Overall, it just needed a heavier slide hammer to get it out. The Blind hole puller set slide is lighter then the 5lb one. These are all auto zone rentals btw.

Cliff notes: What worked for me:
OEM Pilot Bearing Puller Attachment part# 27059
OEM 5-Pound Slide Hammer part# 27033

Last edited by David_viny; 06-12-2015 at 01:38 PM.
Old 06-07-2015, 10:24 PM
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Yea, that is by far the hardest part of the job. I tried the pullers first with no success. I finally had to cut it out with a die grinder. I just kept eating away at it until it was weak enough to pull out with some pliers.
Old 06-12-2015, 11:45 AM
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be advised using something to put inside the bearing and prying on the inside of the crank behind the bearing. there is a freeze plug into an oil galley there. it will push in and you will lose oil pressure if it comes out.



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