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Pop! No clutch (TICK MC)

Old 06-12-2015, 04:55 PM
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Default Pop! No clutch (TICK MC)

Was driving my car to lunch today, and at a stop sign i pushed my clutch pedal in and it made a pop, my pedal got super stiff, and it doesn't want to go in gear.

It's like I have no clutch. I limped it back by shoving it into gear, the clutch slightly works but hardly at all. No weird noises or anything..just lost my clutch. I tried what I could in my short lunch break at work...tried adjusting the rod on the Tick M/C, tried bleeding it...nothing.

Specs:

1999 Corvette C5, stock motor no mods
Tick performance M/C - have had for 7 months.

Tick rep said that it might be the internal seal of the master...what does it sound like to you guys? Please don't tell me pressure plate or clutch/slave haha.
Old 06-13-2015, 03:54 AM
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Usually it's down at the tranny. My bet is on slave and/or pressure plate. Best of luck getting it resolved.
Old 06-13-2015, 06:04 AM
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Disconnect the line at the slave. You should not be able to push the pedal - even if you borrow your friend's gorilla.

If you can push the pedal with the line disconnected, it's the master. If not, you're probably looking at something in the bell housing.

Verify the line is fully connected. It might just have sprung loose. Happens on rare occasions.
Old 06-13-2015, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Disconnect the line at the slave. You should not be able to push the pedal - even if you borrow your friend's gorilla.

If you can push the pedal with the line disconnected, it's the master. If not, you're probably looking at something in the bell housing.

Verify the line is fully connected. It might just have sprung loose. Happens on rare occasions.
With the tick MC are you talking about the gold quick connect fitting? If I remember correctly I could push the pedal no problem with that line just dangling there when I first got it.
Old 06-13-2015, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by StryfeS13
With the tick MC are you talking about the gold quick connect fitting? If I remember correctly I could push the pedal no problem with that line just dangling there when I first got it.
There should be an anti drain valve in the quick connect. If it's disconnected, you should have to press in on it with a screwdriver to get it to move
Old 06-14-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by StryfeS13
Was driving my car to lunch today, and at a stop sign i pushed my clutch pedal in and it made a pop, my pedal got super stiff, and it doesn't want to go in gear.

It's like I have no clutch. I limped it back by shoving it into gear, the clutch slightly works but hardly at all. No weird noises or anything..just lost my clutch. I tried what I could in my short lunch break at work...tried adjusting the rod on the Tick M/C, tried bleeding it...nothing.

Specs:

1999 Corvette C5, stock motor no mods
Tick performance M/C - have had for 7 months.

Tick rep said that it might be the internal seal of the master...what does it sound like to you guys? Please don't tell me pressure plate or clutch/slave haha.
Exact same thing happened to me, Setting at a stop light last Saturday with trans in neutral, light turns green, push clutch and put it in 1st. Start to let the clutch out and pop, car dies, push clutch in and it's super hard, car won't even turn over. Put it in neutral and starts like normal but won't go in any gear. Had to call a tow truck. Ordered a new Monster Level 2. Will be here tomorrow. Pretty sure the pressure plate let go.
Old 06-14-2015, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Disconnect the line at the slave. You should not be able to push the pedal - even if you borrow your friend's gorilla.

If you can push the pedal with the line disconnected, it's the master. If not, you're probably looking at something in the bell housing.

Verify the line is fully connected. It might just have sprung loose. Happens on rare occasions.
Line was fully connected for sure, went under car and disconnected it. Went into car and tried to push pedal. Was hard as a rock as you said it should be.

Got some expensive repairs my coming my way...
Old 06-14-2015, 07:56 PM
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Okay....took the quick disconnect off and now it wont go back on...? What the hell is the trick to this?

I literally put all my strength into pushing the master line back into the slave...it doesnt even start to click into place.. is there a trick to reinstalling this thing? Tried depressing the valve thinking it had pressure or something, and it depressed very easily. Yet when I try to push it into the slave fitting...nothing...hard as rock, wont go in.
Old 06-14-2015, 08:45 PM
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That's not right. They always go right on. You could try cracking the bleeder open to take pressure off the slave and see if it will go in.

Starting to sound like the slave or pressure plate is what went pop.
Old 06-15-2015, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
That's not right. They always go right on. You could try cracking the bleeder open to take pressure off the slave and see if it will go in.

Starting to sound like the slave or pressure plate is what went pop.
Yeah I figured it wasn't normal. I wish that cracking the bleeder was as easy as it sounds, lol.

Something else I forgot to mention is that when I was driving it home after it first happened, it was slipping really bad even in 6th gear. 6th gear, 75mph, around 2k rpm, if I went full throttle it'd just slip the clutch.
Old 06-15-2015, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by StryfeS13
Yeah I figured it wasn't normal. I wish that cracking the bleeder was as easy as it sounds, lol.

Something else I forgot to mention is that when I was driving it home after it first happened, it was slipping really bad even in 6th gear. 6th gear, 75mph, around 2k rpm, if I went full throttle it'd just slip the clutch.
Yeah, wrenching is so much easier on the internet...

Now that you added that last part, combined with that POP, its sounding pressure plate-ish. You're going to need to pull the tranny to at least look at everything.

Suggestion - if you do pull the tranny, order a remote bleeder from Tick for $XX. Worth every penny to be able to sit in the driver's seat and just bleed the clutch in ten minutes from dead empty. Even if you find out everything is OK, get the bleeder.
Old 06-16-2015, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Yeah, wrenching is so much easier on the internet...

Now that you added that last part, combined with that POP, its sounding pressure plate-ish. You're going to need to pull the tranny to at least look at everything.

Suggestion - if you do pull the tranny, order a remote bleeder from Tick for $XX. Worth every penny to be able to sit in the driver's seat and just bleed the clutch in ten minutes from dead empty. Even if you find out everything is OK, get the bleeder.
Alright. I'll just replace everything, add a speed bleeder, and call it a day. Anything else I should replace while I have it all apart? Rear main seal?

Any good reviews with the Mantic ER2? Or should I just go with a Monster Stage 2?
Old 06-16-2015, 11:01 AM
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rear main seal and pilot bearing if your feeling feisty, since you
have it all apart.
Old 06-16-2015, 10:22 PM
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Okay will do. Any input on the clutch selections?
Old 06-17-2015, 07:47 AM
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i ran the ls7 clutch for the longest time thinking it was a solid set up,
until i switched to the monster lt1s twin disc. if you have the change
to drop on a clutch, that would be the one to get.
Old 06-18-2015, 06:27 PM
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I just got a Monster Level 2.
Old 06-29-2015, 06:35 PM
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Well....I tore it all apart. What a pain in the ***!!!!! Never again man, never again.

The pressure plate has a bent finger. I'm sure that's part of the problem, or the whole problem.

Now I have another question, with my axles out of my differential, should my differential be leaking from the areas where the axles slide into it?


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