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1999 t56 Hydraulic Issue

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Old 08-08-2015, 10:22 AM
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Default 1999 t56 Hydraulic Issue

Recently I have been having intermitten trouble getting my car to go into first gear and reverse. Also, there is sometimes a noise when the clutch is disengaged (clutch pedal pressed) at idle. The noise is a dull rattle or perhaps a dull rubbing noise, It's kind of hard to explain and isn't always there. Once the car is moving, it shifts through the gears much easier, but it still doesn't feel quite right when shifting. I have determined that this is probably a hydraulic issue of some kind due to the fact that my issue is not confined to a single gear. I know that the clutch is fairly new (previous owner had replaced at a shop ~15k miles ago, have receipt) but I do not know what other components were replaced with the clutch, if any. I believe that for some reason, the clutch is not fully disengaging. After reading a lot of threads on here, I believe that my issue lies in the slave cylinder, throwout bearing (which is in the slave cylinder on these cars, right?), pilot bearing, or master cylinder. Now for the question lol. What can I do to narrow down my options? What diagnostic procedures could I perform to see if my clutch is disengaging, if my clutch master is losing pressure, etc...? I have visually inspected the clutch fluid, and it is very very dark, but past that I'm not sure what to do. I would like not to have to drop the transmission more than once, and I would like to try to buy ONLY the part/parts that I need if possible, as this is going to be coming out of my cam swap money lol. Also, could someone explain how the tick speed bleeder works and why it is beneficial? Is it just an extension of the bleeder line on the slave cylinder so that you don't have to crawl under the car to bleed the clutch? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
Old 08-08-2015, 12:57 PM
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Test for the master - car off, goes through all gears fine. Car on, difficult to shift. That's the master about 95% of the time.

Secondary test for master - disconnect the hydraulic line. Pedal should be solid. I mean "an 800 pound gorilla can't move the pedal" firm. If the pedal has any give, the seal is bypassing

Slave is normally ok. Will typically leak when it fails.

Test for pilot bearing or throw out bearing - pedal in, car stopped, hearing a noise - very high pitched and rhythmic is normally pilot bearing. Random is his typically throw out. Clutch pedal out, car in neutral, car stopped, noise goes away is the other clincher for that diagnosis.
Old 08-08-2015, 12:59 PM
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And yes, the speed bleeder is more correctly called a remote bleeder.
Old 08-08-2015, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Test for the master - car off, goes through all gears fine. Car on, difficult to shift. That's the master about 95% of the time.

Secondary test for master - disconnect the hydraulic line. Pedal should be solid. I mean "an 800 pound gorilla can't move the pedal" firm. If the pedal has any give, the seal is bypassing

Slave is normally ok. Will typically leak when it fails.

Test for pilot bearing or throw out bearing - pedal in, car stopped, hearing a noise - very high pitched and rhythmic is normally pilot bearing. Random is his typically throw out. Clutch pedal out, car in neutral, car stopped, noise goes away is the other clincher for that diagnosis.
Perfect! That is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks a ton!



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