weedburner

Just trying to get you to see the big picture.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I'm not so sure the ram coupler will work for me...lol

I agree there is no one size that fits all .....that goes for the thermal capacity you mention. The same clutch that say will have more thermal capacity will also hold heat longer than the style that you say don't have as much thermal capacity. It's all a balancing act.

Multi-disc clutches will typically deal with heat better, there is just more area there to disperse it. It's not so much about the mass.

By clutchless I mean this


I have a lingenfelter ignition cut box but it is not hooked up. It would interrupt the ignition via load cell on the shifter . That is really the best way to do it. These guys changing gears with the front wheels in the air has a set up like that.
And I appreciate you contributing. I think you have a very cool product and I would like to get one to try. What's the best way to order from you guys? Any forum discounts?

TT427

iTrader: (1)

Hio, that wouldnt be worth it without upgrading to a carbon 3 or 4 disc 4.5 deal... Quick question, and maybe I would be better off calling someone but do you think a reverse mount and 102/5 tooth deal would be worth the hassle or cost? How much lighter is the bell, and the small flywheel comparatively to your flexplate/button setup? Would be nice if companies like these all had weights on their products, seems to be one of the main specs, hope they are all listening.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Idk.....once you go so far the return starts to diminish. If you're class racing then you have to keep up with the Joneses. But for typical hotrodding almost anything is good enough if the owner is happy. I'm just trying to relay my experiences with these type of clutches.

There is some pretty trick **** out there now. And most is pretty high doller.

TT427

iTrader: (1)

Ya, thats what I would assume I have raed where Tilton or Quartermaster advertises the MOI as half with the 4.5! The thing is its half of very light to begin with so your diminishing returns makes sense. I like the bellhousings though all scalloped and reinforced... looks a lot lighter and if switching to a small clutch setup is a minor investment comparatively. Thinking that a 3.73 or better gear will help using a clutch like the 5.5?

lazerlemonta

Reviving a good post here..........

We recently installed a 5.5" Tilton on my 2015 1LE......... I'll just say it is pure, raw, nasty and twice the car it used to be. First and second gear now feel like they want to rip the car apart. Once you get to third its just steady acceleration. It has taken some tuning but the drivability is really a non issue for me (average driver is not going to be happy for a while). That being said......... looking forward to making some passes in the upcoming week to see just what gains we have made with a few changes.

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

Getting my 19 lb Spec installed next Tuesday. Can't wait!

North*power

iTrader: (1)

Video or it didn't happen!

nmass399

I'm still trying to decide what I wanna get, I want to slip the clutch so it will need to be able to wear a lot.

lazerlemonta

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I slip my tilton out a bit.....no issues.

weedburner

Needs to be able to slip more than a bit if you want a good 60'...

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Depends on what your bit is i suppose. You can slip it....where is the line between slipping and riding is the question.

Got any vids of how much slip you think is more than a bit is with your tamer weedy?

nmass399

Well I've been considering the rps twin and the McLeod magforce twin. I also been considering an actual slipper clutch. The rps has the carbon disc's and the magforce will have the iron style discs. I've also considered a 7.25 tilton but I think the discs are not thick enough.

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

What about the Mantic Twin?

nmass399

I've also thought about them too. I don't think the mantic flywheels have the steel insert to be rebuildable but I may be wrong about that.

stevieturbo

When a clutch is a multipiece unit...it shouldnt be difficult to rebuild...by replacing parts, as you would any of the other parts that need replaced.

Any steel inserts, at least when installed in aluminium flywheels tend to warp like **** in no time though. So for me a steel flywheel with no insert sounds like a more solid piece to begin with.

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

Is this speaking from experience?

weedburner

It depends on the combination. Your potential looks to be around 1.40 60's and around 10.1 ET, given your 131 trap speed. To pull out that potential, your engine needs to be operating near/above it's torque peak for the duration of the run. Let's say you have 28" tires, 4.0 rear gear, and a 2.66 1st gear. Your clutch needs to be able to slip for at least 25' or 0.90 sec to maintain a minimum of 4800 rpm. The question then becomes, can your lightweight clutch/flywheel slip for 25' from a standing start @ WOT without damage?

stevieturbo

Well I didnt just make it up lol

A steel insert in a steel flywheel may b more resilient, but steel in an alloy flywheel, certainly had issues when I used one some 20 years ago.

It didnt affect the operation of the clutch, but I was amazed how badly warped it was.