LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

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-   -   looks like a new bellhousing too! (https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1805728-looks-like-new-bellhousing-too.html)

fullrearview 10-10-2015 06:28 PM

looks like a new bellhousing too!
 
Put a tick master in a few months back, and had a starting issue not long after. The slave just didn't seem to be fully disengaging, so I had to bump start it. Though the clutch went when I did that, and babied it home.

This is the result.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...6230261b39.jpg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...42726d4455.jpg


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...3498313f76.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...5a81c4e1fd.jpg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...8974661a4a.jpg

The Alchemist 10-11-2015 06:56 AM

Ouch. That sucks.

fullrearview 10-14-2015 02:24 AM

Back on my days off. Here are some updated pics. I'm an lt1 guy originally, so any advise would be great. I know this is a good clutch set up, so should I resurface the flywheel and pressure plate, and get a new disk? I have a stock set up ready to go in.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...61a1f40f83.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...a448ca0a2e.jpg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...09470a681f.jpg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...f1ff87b36b.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...e289602fac.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...3d5ac6ced0.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...7e1e5bf313.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...90f7c090c7.jpg

fullrearview 10-14-2015 02:33 AM

Looks like I'll be replacing the RMS and faceplate gasket too... the slipping and loss of power was definitely from this though. Any other suggestions while I have this thing apart?

gsteele 10-14-2015 07:26 AM

Which bellhousing are you going to replace it with?

fullrearview 10-14-2015 11:06 AM

I'm seeing a guy today to see if he can weld it up. If he can do it for 75$ then I'll jump. Otherwise, the cheapest one I can get. I'm not making huge power and don't have plans to any time soon.

fullrearview 10-14-2015 04:35 PM

Welding is out of the question, so new bell it is.

Back to my other question... think I should just replace the disk?

David_viny 10-14-2015 09:51 PM

So how did you break the bell housing? Bump starting it?

fullrearview 10-14-2015 11:33 PM


Originally Posted by David_viny (Post 19002073)
So how did you break the bell housing? Bump starting it?

The hole by the starter, has to be... The crack by the inlets for the slave, who knows.

Anyone on the clutch? Anyone?

stevieturbo 10-15-2015 12:00 PM

I'd be wanting to know what broke the bellhousing, what is the broken piece in the first photos ?

IMO I'd be replacing the lot !

fullrearview 10-15-2015 01:08 PM

The chunks of metal are from the starter and the bell itself. Those are out.. I'm just waiting on a bell and trying to determine if I should use the luk clutch kit I bought, or just but a new disc and get the fly and pressure plate resurfaced.

Project GatTagO 10-17-2015 08:23 PM

I have some observations and you can take them as you like. The whole bellhousing, clutch, and flywheel look like a fucking mess.

I see a lot of oil on the flywheel where the bolt holes are and the clutch dust is sticking to everything like a gunky mess.

When it comes to clutches, cleanliness is next to Godliness. I suspect when the center force clutch was installed no sealant was used on the flywheel bolts. Those bolts are drilled through to the crank case and you must use sealant, otherwise you have a mess.

At this point I say you junk all of it. Get a new bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch assembly. Make sure to use OEM bolts on the flywheel as they have sealant already applied, or use lactite if you use ARP bolts.

Andrew

dgcustomz 10-17-2015 09:14 PM

Looks like your pilot bearing is gone. I would make sure your input nose is good and not damaged before reinstalling everything.

Centerforce 10-17-2015 09:42 PM

We always recommend that before you replace any clutch or related parts that you figure out exactly what happened so that you're not right back where you started in a year or month or week. Whether you put a Centerforce or something else on there, our diagnostic guide might be helpful. Don't hesitate to give us a call (928-771-8422) to help you sort things out, though.

S10xGN 10-18-2015 09:05 PM


Originally Posted by Project GatTagO (Post 19005581)
I have some observations and you can take them as you like. The whole bellhousing, clutch, and flywheel look like a fucking mess.

I see a lot of oil on the flywheel where the bolt holes are and the clutch dust is sticking to everything like a gunky mess.

When it comes to clutches, cleanliness is next to Godliness. I suspect when the center force clutch was installed no sealant was used on the flywheel bolts. Those bolts are drilled through to the crank case and you must use sealant, otherwise you have a mess.

At this point I say you junk all of it. Get a new bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch assembly. Make sure to use OEM bolts on the flywheel as they have sealant already applied, or use lactite if you use ARP bolts.

Andrew

Andrew, do you think Locktite is good enough or should we be using silicone?

Project GatTagO 10-18-2015 09:31 PM


Originally Posted by S10xGN (Post 19006728)
Andrew, do you think Locktite is good enough or should we be using silicone?

I have read where people use loctite without any issues. I don't know if silicone is right for this application. Maybe it is, I just don't know.

I always use the stock replacement bolts which have something on the already, but I don't know what it is exactly.

Andrew

stevieturbo 10-19-2015 03:25 AM

silicone would be absolutely the wrong thing to use.

The Alchemist 10-19-2015 10:03 AM

I've always used just red loctite on my flywheel bolts and been fine.

I would not reuse that clutch setup. Personally, when you factor in the cost for resurfacing, and the expense/labor to remove and replace a clutch, the cost of a new pressure plate and flywheel is not that expensive.


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