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Had an incident they made me feel like my clutch or pressure plate was damaged, so I am now doing my first tranny drop and clutch inspection. All went well thanks to the many great tips on here, but I do have a few questions about things that I am not quite understanding.
I drop the transmission today and when I pulled out the clutch actuator assembly tons of debris in chunks of clutch disk material fell out! I then proceeded to figure out how to remove the other portion of the bell housing casing around the flywheel… When I realized there were only two bolts holding it on. It sure look like there should've been more than two bolts holding that thing on! There was also a thin metal "guard" on the lower half front of the bell housing casing that I had to remove in order to get the casing off. Once I got the pressure plate off I could see that the clutch was destroyed. I don't know enough about pressure plates to know if it is in OK condition as well as the flywheel. I did notice however, there appears to be one bolt missing that is attaching the flywheel to the crank. **
The "missing bolt" is an alignment dowel. Six flywheel bolts is correct. The bolts you have look like ARP bolts, which is good.
The pilot bearing should not go in and out that easy. That's that thing in the middle you pulled out with one finger. You should have to hammer that in or out.
The throw out bearing in your other video should not wobble like that.
If it were my car, I would get a complete kit - includes flywheel, pressure plate, disc, slave, pilot all as one. By the time you screw around trying to Frankenstein it together and all the added machine work, you come out ahead.
Also, check for run out on your input shaft. Make sure your trans didn't take any damage.
Sorry for your loss on this one. Imagine "taps". :USA:
The LT1 throw out bearing does wobble like that, it's a self centering feature that's required because it's mounted on the PP. when the trans is installed the TO bearing aligns correctly on the input shaft. If you get a new clutch kit the TO bearing that comes with it will do the same thing.
It looks like that clutch was just replaced, and from here I'd say all you need is a new disc and pilot bushing. For a all bronze pilot bushing get a National PB 656 HD at Advance Auto 9 bucks made in USA, or get a roller pilot bearing. The bushings that come with a clutch kit are generally magnetic because the bronze is mixed with steel to reduce cost but they can gall the trans input shaft. Use only non-magnetic pilot bushings. Look on eBay for Clutchnet, they make nice discs in California and sell them at good prices on eBay. Looks like you have ARP FW bolts, can't beat those. Too bad somebody dropped the ball with the missing bellhousing bolts.
It looks like the clutch has less than 100 miles on it. The PP isn't worn at all. The flywheel was just re-surfaced, you can see the semicircular grinding marks from the surface grinder. IMO this is all very good, just get a new disc. The PB is supposed to be a light interference fit into the crank, maybe that's not the correct one. Yes you need all the bellhousing bolts.
Like others have said. It looks good except the disc and the Pilot bearing. I would replace those, and you re good. To me, no machining is required. It actually looks new.
Just curious...was the clutch changed recently, or have you just bought the car or something ?
As others have said...the clutch does not look to have been installed for a long time.
But all the above are right...new friction plate, new pilot bushing and re-install and it should be fine.
As to why there are bellhousing bolts etc missing....guess someone was in a hurry doing the job, or just plain incompetent.
Whilst you're in there, I'd be making sure the flywheel bolts are installed/torqued correctly too
Yeah, just bought it. Guy said the clutch had less than 500 miles on it.
If I do just replace the disc, should I get it balanced with the pressure plate? Wondering if it might just be cheaper to get a kit. Otherwise I'll have to buy the pilot bearing separate. Thoughts?
Flywheel resurface necessary? Any chance it is damaged? Would I be able to tell if it was?
Well, I'm thinking maybe I will need a new rear main seal while I'm in there. What do you think?
I also have oil at the very front center on the oil pan gasket. The gasket is the one piece Fel-Pro gasket and supposedly was changed 500 miles ago.
I did actually go and check all the torque specs for the oil pan bolts and they were all a little loose. Not sure if that could have something to do with it or not?
I DID actually wipe both places down, which I'm realizing now was probably a bad idea.
Yes, TOB is reuseable if it feel s nice and smooth when you spin it. I would clean the gasket with a good degreaser....Brakleen or the like. Snug pan bolts, and make an educated decision. Then, slap a disc and a bushing in it.
Well, the install went great. Only bummer is after I had the flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate installed, only to realize the thin metal flywheel dust cover thingy has to be put on first! 😪
Took it all back apart and wrapped it up nicely. Clutch seems good, just painfully breaking it in properly now!
Well, I'm thinking maybe I will need a new rear main seal while I'm in there. What do you think?
I also have oil at the very front center on the oil pan gasket. The gasket is the one piece Fel-Pro gasket and supposedly was changed 500 miles ago.
I did actually go and check all the torque specs for the oil pan bolts and they were all a little loose. Not sure if that could have something to do with it or not?
I DID actually wipe both places down, which I'm realizing now was probably a bad idea.
10-25-2015, 10:18 PM
What the heck am I looking at?! *video* 
