Pressure Plate for Collins Adapter (CD009)
11-04-2015, 02:21 PM
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Pressure Plate for Collins Adapter (CD009) So I am contemplating switching out transmissions on my 240sx (S14) with 01 LS1. It currently has an OEM rebuilt T56 with Spec 3 clutch and I am really not loving it. As expected the T56 feels notchy compared to other transmissions I have driven.
So i am at the point where I am considering going T56 Magunum with close gear ratio or Nissan CD009. I have driven with a CD009 and it was a great transmission and cheaper than a new T56 Magnum. I would be using the Collins kit noted below and was wondering what Pressure Plate you guys would recommend if I go this route.
Car specs:
-Currently stock LS1 but will be upgrading cam and a few other parts in search of 400+rwhp at some point (most likely within a year). I may choose to go turbo at some point but that would likely be over a year away.
-S14 240sx (estimated weight of 2900 lbs with me in it)
-Daily (3x a week at night) and weekend car when I get a chance to actually drive it. Wont be seeing any track time for about a year.
Thanks in advance for your opinion.
http://collinsadapters.com/index.php...utch-disc.html
So i am at the point where I am considering going T56 Magunum with close gear ratio or Nissan CD009. I have driven with a CD009 and it was a great transmission and cheaper than a new T56 Magnum. I would be using the Collins kit noted below and was wondering what Pressure Plate you guys would recommend if I go this route.
Car specs:
-Currently stock LS1 but will be upgrading cam and a few other parts in search of 400+rwhp at some point (most likely within a year). I may choose to go turbo at some point but that would likely be over a year away.
-S14 240sx (estimated weight of 2900 lbs with me in it)
-Daily (3x a week at night) and weekend car when I get a chance to actually drive it. Wont be seeing any track time for about a year.
Thanks in advance for your opinion.
http://collinsadapters.com/index.php...utch-disc.html
11-04-2015, 05:53 PM
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There are 1k+ rwhp 350z using them so I'm guessing more than I will throw at it. I would assume TQ is somewhere in the 800+ since they are turbo V6s
Last edited by 2muchboostNY; 11-04-2015 at 06:35 PM.
11-16-2015, 05:58 PM
#5
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Are they really that strong ?
A local drifter uses one and he's broke it a few times at much less power installed in a fairly light car.
With the wide range of twins out there these days, you should easily be able to get a clutch to hold all the power you'll ever make, and still drive like stock.
With the twin you'd be able to get away with a slightly lighter cover...that means less leg effort required.
A local drifter uses one and he's broke it a few times at much less power installed in a fairly light car.
With the wide range of twins out there these days, you should easily be able to get a clutch to hold all the power you'll ever make, and still drive like stock.
With the twin you'd be able to get away with a slightly lighter cover...that means less leg effort required.
11-16-2015, 08:43 PM
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Hey Stevie thanks for the input. It's kind of tough to find the exact capabilities of the CD009. I know the earlier ones (CD006 I believe) broke apart with stock 350z power. The CD009 is supposed to be the much stronger version but again some claim over 1k power in stock form.
I agree that a twin will improve things but since I would have to take it to a shop (no more using my uncles shop after the move to TX) at that point I think I would rather swap out Trans if I have to replace the clutch. This T56 has a fresh rebuild (maybe 2k miles) and is still notchy just like other T56 I have driven. I was impressed with how well the TR6060/Magnum drove even with a Monster Stage 4. So I am keeping my eye on that option as well. Assuming I can make $1500+ for this Trans it might making nabbing the Magnum something feasible in the future. The Cd009 would be a cheaper alternative to the Magnum.
I agree that a twin will improve things but since I would have to take it to a shop (no more using my uncles shop after the move to TX) at that point I think I would rather swap out Trans if I have to replace the clutch. This T56 has a fresh rebuild (maybe 2k miles) and is still notchy just like other T56 I have driven. I was impressed with how well the TR6060/Magnum drove even with a Monster Stage 4. So I am keeping my eye on that option as well. Assuming I can make $1500+ for this Trans it might making nabbing the Magnum something feasible in the future. The Cd009 would be a cheaper alternative to the Magnum.
11-17-2015, 04:35 AM
#7
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How much does it cost to modify the Nissan box to actually fit the car though ? As presumably it's already built around the T56 ?
From a future proof point of view, the Magnums do seem to be the way forward and keep parts availability simple.
If thinking about another box..then an off the shelf Magnum might work, would save the F-Body tail housing swap and $1000.
Or what's the difference between a Magnum and a regular OEM fit 6060 ? They're bound to be plentiful these days
From a future proof point of view, the Magnums do seem to be the way forward and keep parts availability simple.
If thinking about another box..then an off the shelf Magnum might work, would save the F-Body tail housing swap and $1000.
Or what's the difference between a Magnum and a regular OEM fit 6060 ? They're bound to be plentiful these days
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11-17-2015, 01:05 PM
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Well the collins adapter and components would be in the $1k range. It's only a matter of cutting off a bell housing from the CD009 and bolting in the LS1 bell housing with adapter. Then have to modify the shifter (approx $300) and the Trans I found locally for $600. The Sikky swap Trans mount can be modded to accommodate the CD009.
The Magnum is about $3k and would also require shifter mod ($300). The Trans mount would also be modded. So it's approx a $1.5-2k difference between the CD009 and Magnum. I would prefer a Magnum any day just the add cost.
The difference between the 6060 and Magnum is about $1200-1500 difference. My concern is the weakness of the 6060 main shaft. Granted it's a stock LS1 for now but if I stick with her it will be force fed in the near future.
The Magnum is about $3k and would also require shifter mod ($300). The Trans mount would also be modded. So it's approx a $1.5-2k difference between the CD009 and Magnum. I would prefer a Magnum any day just the add cost.
The difference between the 6060 and Magnum is about $1200-1500 difference. My concern is the weakness of the 6060 main shaft. Granted it's a stock LS1 for now but if I stick with her it will be force fed in the near future.
11-17-2015, 07:14 PM
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Read a few threads here that noted the issue with the main shaft and a few noting issues with synchro grinding with some TR6060. From what I gathered the Magnum has the stronger main shaft and has fixed the issues. Again just from reading no personal experience.
Last edited by 2muchboostNY; 11-17-2015 at 07:27 PM.
11-17-2015, 07:19 PM
#11
There is a significant difference in ratios.
If you really want to compare apples to apples, you'd likely want to consider a rear gear swap and the associated cost.
If you strictly did the trans. swap only, you would have a lack of OD in comparison, and a bit of a granny gear 1st. Also, the percentage drop is fairly big 1st - 2nd, then gradually gets less and less. The CD009 does not have ratios ideal for a sporting car like an LS1 S14.
The TR6060 has gone through some blocker ring changes; attempt to get the most recent built you can. With regard to the mainshaft breakage area, if you're not running slicks, a light car shouldn't have an issue there.
If you really want to compare apples to apples, you'd likely want to consider a rear gear swap and the associated cost.
If you strictly did the trans. swap only, you would have a lack of OD in comparison, and a bit of a granny gear 1st. Also, the percentage drop is fairly big 1st - 2nd, then gradually gets less and less. The CD009 does not have ratios ideal for a sporting car like an LS1 S14.
The TR6060 has gone through some blocker ring changes; attempt to get the most recent built you can. With regard to the mainshaft breakage area, if you're not running slicks, a light car shouldn't have an issue there.
11-17-2015, 07:43 PM
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JMD...much appreciated. I forgot to mention that the car is fitted with a J30 3.9 diff ratio. I also have access to my Q45 diff swap back at home which has the 3.54 gear ratio and upgraded 31 spline axles. To be perfectly honest I have never really looked at Trans ratio in comparison to the diff/LSD ratio.
Not planning to run slicks at all. I would only run bias ply the few times a year it saw the track. Realistically between the condo, business, and business travel the car will stay NA for a year or 1.5 years before I consider dropping in FI. In the meantime I plan to drop in a Cam, BTR Trunion Upgrade, BTR Dual Valve Spring Kit (already purchased), and any minor mods to pump up the power to keep me interested till I go FI.
Really wish I didnt have these knee issues but unfortunately I am 31 built like a 78 year old.
Not planning to run slicks at all. I would only run bias ply the few times a year it saw the track. Realistically between the condo, business, and business travel the car will stay NA for a year or 1.5 years before I consider dropping in FI. In the meantime I plan to drop in a Cam, BTR Trunion Upgrade, BTR Dual Valve Spring Kit (already purchased), and any minor mods to pump up the power to keep me interested till I go FI.
Really wish I didnt have these knee issues but unfortunately I am 31 built like a 78 year old.
Last edited by 2muchboostNY; 11-19-2015 at 12:34 AM.
11-19-2015, 06:51 PM
#13
That's cool you have the modern day equivalent of a quick-change diff. and those are actually both great ratios for a 2.66 or 2.97 T56 respectively.
A simple spreadsheet to show you what the CD009 w/ 3.54 ratios are vs. the 2.66(?) T56 with 3.90 ratios would help you.
Keep up with PT type exercises and strengthen the supporting structure of your knee. The better it's supported, the better it will last over the next 50 years, and that applies to damaged knees too.
A simple spreadsheet to show you what the CD009 w/ 3.54 ratios are vs. the 2.66(?) T56 with 3.90 ratios would help you.
Keep up with PT type exercises and strengthen the supporting structure of your knee. The better it's supported, the better it will last over the next 50 years, and that applies to damaged knees too.
11-19-2015, 08:50 PM
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Yes it's something I should do for sure. I had built a high hp 2JZ before so I had the let over 3.54 diff, axles, and hubs needed for the swap.
Thanks man.....been trying to preserve my knees for a few years now. Taking lots of natural remedy stuff and doing exactly what you said. Been building up all other supporting mechanics for my knee to avoid complete reconstruction at least for as long as I can.
Thanks man.....been trying to preserve my knees for a few years now. Taking lots of natural remedy stuff and doing exactly what you said. Been building up all other supporting mechanics for my knee to avoid complete reconstruction at least for as long as I can.
11-30-2015, 10:19 PM
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I was talking to a buddy of mine who used the CD009 trans for his LS swap back when I was considering this option. He is used a SPEC Stage 1 LS1 Pressure Plate and it's been working well for him while he daily's his car. Hope that helps!
12-02-2015, 01:15 PM
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Hey bud...thanks for sharing the info. I would probably use a different clutch but its great to hear that its working well for him. Sucks that I have to get rid of a fresh T56 but my knee is deteriorating faster than anticipated. At some point I will have to have surgery and give up driving a manual for a while but I am fighting tooth and nail to avoid that.
12-04-2015, 11:40 AM
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@JK....damn that sucks to hear. I am on the fence about a local deal including a rather new close ratio Magnum or shooting for the CD009. The difference in cost is about $1500 all and all not including labor so its a tough pill to swallow at the moment should I choose the Magnum.
Its rather odd that I keep looking for information regarding the HP/TQ capacity of the CD009 and there isnt much out there. Like you noted people are either making tons of power or I have heard of people snapping them under 500rwhp.
Its rather odd that I keep looking for information regarding the HP/TQ capacity of the CD009 and there isnt much out there. Like you noted people are either making tons of power or I have heard of people snapping them under 500rwhp.