why do people bash ls7 clutch/fly in an ls1 t56. enlighten me! - Page 3 - LS1TECH



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why do people bash ls7 clutch/fly in an ls1 t56. enlighten me!

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Old 03-06-2017, 10:53 AM   #41
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So you hung with a stock C5?
I beat him and he made me take passenger, his car has the zip tie mod and catback, maybe more as it beats many other C5 corvettes even with bolt ons.

But I was mainly trying to show how the clutch kit LS7 shifts as it is the only video I have.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:08 PM   #42
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I beat him and he made me take passenger, his car has the zip tie mod and catback, maybe more as it beats many other C5 corvettes even with bolt ons.

But I was mainly trying to show how the clutch kit LS7 shifts as it is the only video I have.
the vid must have been the pass with you having an extra passenger ?? because it looks like he pulls you at the end and has his hazards on
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:11 PM   #43
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the vid must have been the pass with you having an extra passenger ?? because it looks like he pulls you at the end and has his hazards on
He barely pulled me a car to the end of 4th. But seriously the only reason I posted that vid here was to show the ls7 clutch at work WOT in my car. I have a vid for race comments in the srk section.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:30 PM   #44
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He barely pulled me a car to the end of 4th. But seriously the only reason I posted that vid here was to show the ls7 clutch at work WOT in my car. I have a vid for race comments in the srk section.
So just wondering, do you have the steel or aluminum flywheel?
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:31 PM   #45
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So just wondering, do you have the steel or aluminum flywheel?
steel. It is the full factory ls7 clutch kit. The car drives amazing. It feels really good. I feel like if I had a lighter set up it would be faster but I cannot ask for anymore, for what I paid.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:35 PM   #46
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steel. It is the full factory ls7 clutch kit. The car drives amazing. It feels really good. I feel like if I had a lighter set up it would be faster but I cannot ask for anymore, for what I paid.
Good to hear, I haven't got mine installed yet but I bought the full kit with the optional RAM 19.5 lb aluminum flywheel.
Not going drag racing so I think it'll be fine.
Seems like most of the naysayers spend a lot of time an the track slamming gears, I'm building a road car.
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:05 PM   #47
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You're right about how well the LS7 clutch drives no doubt about that. The issue I had was after a few hard runs it would lock me out of high rpm shifts. I had to let the car cool off for an hour. Who wants to deal with that?
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Old 03-07-2017, 06:00 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by scotty2000ss View Post
You're right about how well the LS7 clutch drives no doubt about that. The issue I had was after a few hard runs it would lock me out of high rpm shifts. I had to let the car cool off for an hour. Who wants to deal with that?
same here regular driving is fine/stock feeling and durable but blocks out shifts except for me its on the street .unless the car is close to dead cold then it shifts good and constant fluid swaps improve it as well but still not predictable enough to shift it aggressively.

I have never taken it to the track because of the LS7 clutch , the car went 11.9's for the guy I bought it from , I was at the track that day and impressed with how well it ran for a bolt on car but he added the ls7 clutch before I ended up with the car , the stock clutch gave up the ghost on him around 215k , I bought it at 224k - it looses an eternity to every shift and I know how to flatfoot shift I just know better than to try that with this clutch. He built a nice car and I still enjoy it and got a good deal but a better clutch will be a welcome addition someday.

I am glad it is working well for you mappinsj , I don't wish troubles on anyone I hope it continues to work out for you I just have a sour taste over it so try to at least let people know it may not be all sunshine and roses.
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Old 03-07-2017, 06:25 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by scotty2000ss View Post
You're right about how well the LS7 clutch drives no doubt about that. The issue I had was after a few hard runs it would lock me out of high rpm shifts. I had to let the car cool off for an hour. Who wants to deal with that?
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Originally Posted by murphinator View Post
same here regular driving is fine/stock feeling and durable but blocks out shifts except for me its on the street .unless the car is close to dead cold then it shifts good and constant fluid swaps improve it as well but still not predictable enough to shift it aggressively.
Are/were both of you on stock master cylinder?
Im curious to narrow down who is having real issues and who is having issues due to not moving enough hydraulic fluid with that particular clutch.
Saying this because again Ive never had any issues at all hard/speed shifting at redline/WOT when the car was bolt-ons or now with 433rwhp on a full weight car. With that being said I haven't been to a drag strip since the clutch has been in but ive done plenty of runs elsewhere up through 4th with no issues and quite a few auto-x's in the dead heat of summer.
Before the tick MC on the stock clutch with just bolt ons I would get a mushy peddle by the time i hit 3rd and after running I would have to pump it a few times for it to return to the top, and than it would randomly lock me out of some gears at redline after being hot. After the tick MC on the stock clutch and now on the LS7 clutch I don't have any of those issues at all. The only reason I would change it out would be maybe a for a slightly lighter setup and only if I could keep stock like drive ability.
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Old 03-07-2017, 06:28 PM   #50
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For the Rick master to overstroke the slave, the rod has to be adjusted way far out. If you have it level with the brake pedal it won't do it. If you have it at stock height it can. Also when it happens your bellhousing will vomit some fluid. Typically when it fails it's pretty catastrophic meaning almost no warning.
Well thats good to know. Didn't have any fluid vomit out and the clutch peddle was about even with the brake peddle, followed the instructions and put it out just enough to fully disengage the clutch, which seemed further out than what some were saying on here. Some were talking about the peddle being like half the height of stock which is way off from where I was, which was close to where stock height was at.
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Old 03-07-2017, 07:08 PM   #51
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Are/were both of you on stock master cylinder?
Im curious to narrow down who is having real issues and who is having issues due to not moving enough hydraulic fluid with that particular clutch.
Saying this because again Ive never had any issues at all hard/speed shifting at redline/WOT when the car was bolt-ons or now with 433rwhp on a full weight car. With that being said I haven't been to a drag strip since the clutch has been in but ive done plenty of runs elsewhere up through 4th with no issues and quite a few auto-x's in the dead heat of summer.
Before the tick MC on the stock clutch with just bolt ons I would get a mushy peddle by the time i hit 3rd and after running I would have to pump it a few times for it to return to the top, and than it would randomly lock me out of some gears at redline after being hot. After the tick MC on the stock clutch and now on the LS7 clutch I don't have any of those issues at all. The only reason I would change it out would be maybe a for a slightly lighter setup and only if I could keep stock like drive ability.
I would also like to see this narrowed down and would be equally interested to know how many are using the steel flywheel vs the aluminum.
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Old 03-07-2017, 08:02 PM   #52
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I put the tick master in. It helped but didn't solve it. Especially after I put ET streets on. 3 passes and it wouldn't even shift into second.
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Old 03-07-2017, 08:07 PM   #53
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You're right about how well the LS7 clutch drives no doubt about that. The issue I had was after a few hard runs it would lock me out of high rpm shifts. I had to let the car cool off for an hour. Who wants to deal with that?
I shifted the ***** out of my car at WOT the other night. probably 25 WOT shifts in 40 minutes. Not a single damn "lock out"

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I would also like to see this narrowed down and would be equally interested to know how many are using the steel flywheel vs the aluminum.
+1 for steel here.
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Old 03-08-2017, 10:44 AM   #54
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I shifted the ***** out of my car at WOT the other night. probably 25 WOT shifts in 40 minutes. Not a single damn "lock out"



+1 for steel here.
Did you do a 10 second burn out and launch at 5500? Doing pulls on the highway is completely different.
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Old 03-08-2017, 11:09 AM   #55
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stock hydraulics , steel flywheel (stock ls7) , Kirban shifter here. Mine shifted pretty well for the first month or so after I bought the car with the ls7 installed well before I bought it.
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Old 03-08-2017, 12:06 PM   #56
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Did you do a 10 second burn out and launch at 5500? Doing pulls on the highway is completely different.
So why would the heat/abuse cause the clutch itself to have issues? Would it be the pressure plate fingers losing strength so the clutch wont disengage? What do you think the deal was?
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Old 03-08-2017, 01:04 PM   #57
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So why would the heat/abuse cause the clutch itself to have issues? Would it be the pressure plate fingers losing strength so the clutch wont disengage? What do you think the deal was?
I'm sure the heat was the biggest factor. The unit is also self adjusting from what I've read which is another problem.
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Old 03-08-2017, 01:58 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r View Post
For the Rick master to overstroke the slave, the rod has to be adjusted way far out. If you have it level with the brake pedal it won't do it. If you have it at stock height it can. Also when it happens your bellhousing will vomit some fluid. Typically when it fails it's pretty catastrophic meaning almost no warning.
Again, depends on the clutch. For the Quartmaster Optimum RR I have it adjusted about a full inch below the brake pedal. The engagement is effectively an on/off switch on the street and doesn't slip easily unless it's at ~3k.

If it comes apart again the stock master is going back in as soon as I rig up a good way to adjust the pedal stop.
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Old 03-08-2017, 03:21 PM   #59
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Again, depends on the clutch. For the Quartmaster Optimum RR I have it adjusted about a full inch below the brake pedal. The engagement is effectively an on/off switch on the street and doesn't slip easily unless it's at ~3k.

If it comes apart again the stock master is going back in as soon as I rig up a good way to adjust the pedal stop.
Texas Speed sells a stock master with an adjustable throw...
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Old 03-08-2017, 04:34 PM   #60
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Or just order a smaller bore tilton master cylinder like 3/4 or 5/8 and swap out the 7/8 that comes with the tick.
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