Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

Im going to have my trans rebuilt at a local shop from quite a few referrals.I bought a stg 2 rebuild kit from Tick with the following upgrades:

- 5/6/reverse bronze pads
- 1/2 inner cones
- new snap rings
- bronze isolator cup
- timken bearings
- 3/4 steel fork

Currently i have a monster twin disc lt1-2 clutch and a tick master cylinder. My clutch is a yr old and has worked flawlessly till now with more power my trans makes all kinds of rattle noises both at idle and driving, I get a vibration at speeds above 80mph.I just recently started having issues of being locked out of all gears. I spoke with monster and both agree i could also have a hydraulic issue and would be best to go to a stock master cylinder and change to a better fluid.Should also make driveability much easier in traffic. Ive already upgraded my driveshaft 3 weeks ago and checked axles to make sure my issues were not rearend related. My trans has close to 160k on it so its due for service ..hopefully this will breathe new life into it for awhile.

Is there any recommended fluid to use on a rebuilt t56 with the bronze pads over stock dex 3 fluid?

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

Got my kit from Tick today.I gotta say..these guys have been great so far with answering every lil stupid question I had via email very promptly.Place my order thursday morning and got it this afternoon all the way in my igloo in canada.

As happy as I am to have this here fast enough that i can get my t56 rebuilt hopefully without needing any other hardparts. For the $1000+ for the stg 2 kit i got..sure doesnt look like much in the box lol. Im sure it will all be worth it when i can mildly bang some gears again.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Encounter something similar and will share .02

Be sure to do a new pilot bushing/ bearing and throw out bearing.

My stock 99 TA's stock T56 started having go into gear issues and the local shop is pretty sure it's the pilot bushing/bearing and the pressure plate may also be part of the issue.

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

Ill have it looked at but I know that my pilot bearing and throwout bearing were replaced last yr at the sametime the lt1-s was installed.But who knows..maybe something isnt happy in the clutch area.Ill know more when I hear back from the trans shop

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

Good news,the trans shop called me today and my car is ready for pickup.The rebuilder checked over and serviced everything as I requested. He flushed my clutch fluid since i knew it had dot 3 in there and it also had air in the system.The pilot and throwout..slave etc were all mint and had 0 signs of improper wear. the trans internal bearings on the other hand needed to be replaced..but my gears were in good health..fluid needed to be flushed in the trans.All in all he said yes the trans was overdue for a rebuild but the stage 2 kit i got was the perfect kit for the parts needed to fix it. The inner cones and bearings especially. Ill post up once i drive it back home and can maybe lay into some power.Just happy nothing majorly was wrong

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Red bull, thank you for the follow up. That's good news.

My TA goes to RPM Transmission tomorrow for a similar upgrade and new clutch.

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

What clutch are you going to use and how much power is infront of it?
I should be doing the stage 3 rebuild with the current power Im making but I just cant invest in doing another driveshaft etc for the viperized upgrades.

I love my monster clutch..and monster has been an amazing company to stand by their product a yr later when i had concerns..Steve offered to help me out if anything wasnt right clutch wise.

z-maro

iTrader: (18)

What clutch(s) were you running before the lt1-s? Good to hear you are happy with it, I'm considering one of them when my stock clutch goes (New H/C/I build) and am looking for something a little lighter weight/lower MOI. Did you go with the standard or light weight flywheel, and do you notice any difference in how fast the engine revs?

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

Before this i was n/a and had an ls7 clutch and made 390whp on my cammed lq4 at the time.I used the standard flywheel always since i do drive on the street alot in traffic.revs felt like stock as it should.

Sadly i didnt get far with picking my car up today... I was excited to borrow my friends srt-10 ram and drive it to pick up my car..vlog a bit and run him on the hwy ride back to work. I got my car ..fired it up and headed to drive to work.Within 2-3 blocks Im stuck cant get into any gear and coasted off into a dead end street. I called the trans shop to say i havent made it far at all from there and the car will not shift and im still hearing noises from the trans area at idle which i requested to be checked.The noises change tone when I clutch in/out but cant get into gear with the car running.I was ssured that the clutch and hydraulics looked fine and performed flawless during the roadtest prior to me picking up the car and that maybe the noises I was hearing is exhaust rattle..which Ive never had an issue with since its all vbanded. I shut the car off and we bump started the car in gear and I limped it back to the trans shop. Now i cant say for sure how indepth the clutch/hydraulics were looked at or serviced like I was promised and im not bashing anyone or any product..all i know is..something is still very wrong and i was hoping that when the trans was out..all would be revealed to me as i asked to be fully checked that way whatever was broken or worn..id replace before having the car put back together.

I can say that the trans itself felt great..for the short drive..the rattle noises i would hear under gear load were gone.the bronze shifter cup made a very direct positive feel to the shifter itself. To help expedite a speedy recovery i emailed steve at monster clutch to break the news of my woes and ask for advice of what he thinks could still be my culprit.Though to his expertise..this sounds very odd symptom based on the description ive given and from what ive been told everything seemed to be ok. i asked about just simply buying a whole new clutch kit and sending back my current lt1-s for inspection but steve wants to work with me and the trans shop to dissect things deeper first which i respect.

As dissappointed as i am..there isnt much I can do myself here but trust in the hands of the trans shop and monster to guide me straight..its going to be costly.Im at a point I dont care..just want it right.I hate to point fingers..I own the car so i point it at myself until i see proof its not my doing.My first race is may 20th...my car will make it there and back by then somehow! Im going to switch to a stock master cylinder..rebleed the slave Again with fluid that monster has told me to use. get replacement clutch parts or a new clutch kit by the end of next week either way.Im determined

redsscamaroboy

iTrader: (7)

It sucks you still having issues, hopefully everything gets sorted out quickly.
I have been thinking of swapping out my Tick master cylinder for a stock factory piece as I cant stand the engagement since installing the Tick unit. Mine isn't anything as powerful as your set up , I look forward to hearing how your deal works out . Good luck

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

Yea I hope to have this sorted out sooner than later. Sadly my wallet is going to be the one to suffer most as i gotta pay for another re/re to have the trans pulled plus whatever labor to get the clutch sorted out and additional parts if needed for the clutch.

I got till the 20th to have the car ready to race. I plan on switching to the stock master once I get my car home and tackle that in the driveway. Maybe sell my tick but its a few yrs old now. The stock should be a much needed blessing.I also bought a meth kit I want to install for the hot days and keep iats down when I'm hitting over 10psi.

I'll update the findings when the trans is pulled tomorrow. Fingers crossed the damage isn't severe...but my luck is never that good lol.

redsscamaroboy

iTrader: (7)

In for the results .
I'm looking at the same clutch and have a Tick master, so I'm interested in your results switching back to a stock master cylinder.
Good luck getting everything race ready bud.

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

*Update*

Well Ive finally picked my car up from the trans shop and drove it home. Turns out during the original install of my clutch.My existing arp bolts from my ls7 clutch was re-used for my lt1-s clutch which is strictly labeled not to do on the instructions was missed by the original shop last year.We figure maybe the bolts began to backout or the heads of the bolts were making contact with the clutch assembly which created my disengagement issues over time. Had the stock bolts installed for the flywheel and pressure plate and torqued to spec and all has been well.I drove home for an hr in heavy traffic without any problems thankfully.

Now do I still have an issue/rattle sound that needs investigating. The trans itself feels great with the rebuild and shifts smoothly.But I still have a rattle type of sound if I upshift a little early and at lower rpm with a heavier load coming from the shifter area only. I had a bronze shifter cup installed hoping that would stop this but apparently not. I think my pro 5.0 shifter might be the issue. Other than that i have no issues with the trans or clutch. I will be installing a stock m/c for a lighter pedal and smoother clutch engagement point for daily use which arrived as i got home today. I also have a vibration issue seperate from the trans at higher speeds I think is related to the rearend/axles or tires/rims.

Im looking more forward to getting the stock master on than anything else..right now with the tick master..the car is a light switch the requires a very steady and slight release of my tired clutch leg to prevent stalling out.The rest Ill deal with over time as things are upgraded. Ill post a video soon when the weather clears up. thanks again to Steve at Monster who absolutely stood on stand by to help me get the clutch issues sorted out with the shop performing the job...customer service on his end was priceless! i didnt even buy the clutch directly from him and he was willing to back me up a year after my purchase.

z-maro

iTrader: (18)

Glad you got your issue resolved. I'm interested to see how you like it with the stock MC.

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

I will try to get that done this weekend on my own.Right now Im fighting with a phantom sputtering issue since I got the car back. I had found a ground strap not put back on and 1 o2 sensor has started going on the fritz making the car run like garbage. Im also going to try to install my meth kit and prepare for a final retune on the dyno.

gongshow71

iTrader: (1)

After blowing thru 2 pilot bearings (within 30,000 miles) and pre-maturely wearing a clutch I have learned a lot about the hydraulic system and clutch/transmission issues with these cars.

I can not stress enough the need to measure for a clutch shim. Even if Monster Clutch Co. says that there set ups dont need it, measure it anyway. Do you want to spend 3+ hours removing and installing a set up that you dont know whether or not it needs a shim? No.

Its simple. Just type in "my clutch shim" in google and see the top result for ls1tech and it shows you how to do it.

Second, the alignment of the clutch/flywheel with the pilot bearing is essential. Even when using a clutch alignment tool I still screwed it up 2 times.

I use a Tick adjustable, stg 2 diamond clutch, 15lb diamond clutch lightweight flyhweel, and tick speedBLEEDER line. Just for reference. I put down 386rwhp and 373 rwtq. I still have a slight obstruction going into 2nd and 4th gear. Ive determined its either related to the syncros or shifter gates, but I need to study up more on the internals of a T56 before I can definitely say its something other than the clutch hydraulics or clutch shim.

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

I take it you missed that the clutch has been fixed and no more issues on that end. The trans shop and Steve from monster talked numerous times and lots of pics with measurements were made to make sure everything was to spec. And yes..that clutch does not use a shim..nor does it use arp bolts on the flywheel which was part of my problem.

The only issue i still have with the trans is the shifter itself makes a rattle sound i cant tell exactly what part of it is causing it.

The main issue I have now is who or what went wrong from when I dropped the car off ir ran perfect to now having issues with the car sputtering and running like garbage after 2 weeks.I need to fix this before next weekend.

gongshow71

iTrader: (1)

Can you tell if its internal to the trans or is it a rattle from the shifter itself? Are you using RTV sealant on the shifter base where the 4 bolts mate it to the trans?

In my experience the RTV sealant really helps with noise and vibration caused from the shifter base plate rattling metal-on-metal with the trans. I learned to live with it because its a pain in the *** to scrap off whenever you have to remove or install the shifter/trans again.

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

It doesnt feel like its internal to the trans while im driving. i dont feel vibrations that would correlate to what noise is coming from the shifter area. I havent taken the shifter off to see if it was sealed when reinstalled. When I originally installed it..I didnt use rtv on the base.

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

I also did find out what was causing my engine sputter and that was the msd 2 step box shutting down 1 of the coil packs.Glad that got resolved.