Getting trans in...
11-04-2017, 05:33 AM
#1
Getting trans in... So... I'm frustrated and a little lost. Went to install my trans after I got home from work. Was a royal pain getting it up there (don't have a trans jack so I had a bottle jack up front and my floor jack in the back) but I did. After much struggling I was finally able to get the splines lined up. Was able to confirm this visually and via the fact that the output shaft wouldn't spin.
However, like many, I was stuck with about 7/8" of space between the trans and the bell housing. I measured as far around the trans as I could and the gap is even on all sides. I hooked the master cylinder up to the slave and was able to wiggle it about 3/8" further. This to me says that I have everything aligned correctly and that the input shaft is inside the pilot bearing.
Being unable to push it on any further, I hand-threaded the bolts in, and very carefully started turning them. I know this isn't how its supposed to be done, but I honestly couldn't think of any other way to get it that last half inch or so.
As I was pulling the trans on, I noticed that the alignment dowels aren't lining up correctly. They seem shifted to the drivers side a hair, and it's hard to tell, but possibly a little low.
These are the exact same parts that came off the car originally. Original trans, bell, etc. Only new parts are clutch assembly and pilot bearing.
Anybody ever run into this? Any advice?
However, like many, I was stuck with about 7/8" of space between the trans and the bell housing. I measured as far around the trans as I could and the gap is even on all sides. I hooked the master cylinder up to the slave and was able to wiggle it about 3/8" further. This to me says that I have everything aligned correctly and that the input shaft is inside the pilot bearing.
Being unable to push it on any further, I hand-threaded the bolts in, and very carefully started turning them. I know this isn't how its supposed to be done, but I honestly couldn't think of any other way to get it that last half inch or so.
As I was pulling the trans on, I noticed that the alignment dowels aren't lining up correctly. They seem shifted to the drivers side a hair, and it's hard to tell, but possibly a little low.
These are the exact same parts that came off the car originally. Original trans, bell, etc. Only new parts are clutch assembly and pilot bearing.
Anybody ever run into this? Any advice?
11-04-2017, 10:50 AM
#3
typically this is because the disc is not dead nuts centered. The input shaft goes through the spline but the tip catches the edge of the pilot bearing on that last 1/2". Using bolts to "pull" the tranny in often causes the input shaft tip to trash, or at least score, the pilot bearing. This is why it is not advised you pull the tranny in with the bolts. The tranny not lining up to the dowel holes indicates the disc was not centered exactly
only right fix is to pull tranny back out, loosen PP bolts and use the alignment tool again to center disc. I find holding "straight in" pressure on alignment tool then tightening a few PP bolts enough to hold the disc there vs just letting the disc "hang" on the tool works best. Also run fingers around disc/PP edge and they should be = all the way around vs 1 side being "slightly" off
only right fix is to pull tranny back out, loosen PP bolts and use the alignment tool again to center disc. I find holding "straight in" pressure on alignment tool then tightening a few PP bolts enough to hold the disc there vs just letting the disc "hang" on the tool works best. Also run fingers around disc/PP edge and they should be = all the way around vs 1 side being "slightly" off
11-05-2017, 11:19 AM
#6
Staging Lane
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Purchase a steel clutch alignment tool. Forget the plastic ones. I had a similar problem. The plastic alignment tool went in, the steel alignment tool did NOT. Turned out the clutch splines were bad.
11-05-2017, 04:06 PM
#7
Happy
Been there on not getting the clutch disc centered dead nuts.
yeah that pilot is now dead.
I use this "blind hole puller" I get at Autozone from their "load-a-tool" deal. Plug & play on getting pilot bearing out # 27128
Been there on not getting the clutch disc centered dead nuts.
yeah that pilot is now dead.
I use this "blind hole puller" I get at Autozone from their "load-a-tool" deal. Plug & play on getting pilot bearing out # 27128
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11-08-2017, 04:38 AM
#10
Until the freeze plug on the back of the crank pops out instead of the bearing...
Does anyone have an old input shaft or metal alignment tool they'd be willing to let me borrow? Getting this thing aligned with the plastic tool is a pain in the ***. (Course I'd be willing to pay >>)
Does anyone have an old input shaft or metal alignment tool they'd be willing to let me borrow? Getting this thing aligned with the plastic tool is a pain in the ***. (Course I'd be willing to pay >>)
11-08-2017, 10:03 AM
#11
11-08-2017, 10:10 AM
#12
TECH Enthusiast
11-09-2017, 02:45 AM
#13
11-12-2017, 08:38 PM
#14
I tried the Ram Clutches metal alignment tool from summit with my RPS twin disk and could not get the clutch discs to slide more than a 1/2 inch up on to the splines one at a time. They went onto input shaft on my t56 just fine when i lapped them, so I returned mine and order one from quarter master but I havent checked to see if this one is any better.
11-13-2017, 03:22 PM
#15
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On mine, I took a carbide bit and opened the dowel holes 0.005” so they were not press fit. I also crack the bleeder which helps it just go on and get the surfaces mated up.
11-22-2017, 06:32 PM
#16
TECH Senior Member
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So...disk alignment tools are nice, but there are other ways to align the disk. When I was a teenager and clutch kits didn't come with alignment tools, I got really good at aligning the disk just by feel. You tighten the pressure plate just enough to hold the disk in place, but loose enough to still let it move. Then feel all the way around the circumference of the disk and how far it is from the edge of the pressure plate. Once you get into it and do it, you will be surprised how accurate it will be.
Also, when installing a trans, I always like to have a spare slip yoke on hand and make sure to put the trans in 4th gear. This will allow you to move the input shaft from the back.
Lastly, never, ever....I mean ******* never...use bolts to bring the trans to the engine. When everything is aligned right, the trans will slam right in. If it doesn't then something is hanging up and should be fixed.
Andrew
Also, when installing a trans, I always like to have a spare slip yoke on hand and make sure to put the trans in 4th gear. This will allow you to move the input shaft from the back.
Lastly, never, ever....I mean ******* never...use bolts to bring the trans to the engine. When everything is aligned right, the trans will slam right in. If it doesn't then something is hanging up and should be fixed.
Andrew
12-02-2017, 02:49 AM
#18
Whoop. Forgot to update this
Quarter master tool is awesome. no play in it whatsoever (vs the plastic piece allowing me to push the disk almost 1/2" off center)
Trans slid in. almost lol. Took a bit of fighting and wiggling and pushing, but went in about 20x easier than the first time.
I had a tiny sliver of a gap when I was done. I'm talking like a millimeter.
Quarter master tool is awesome. no play in it whatsoever (vs the plastic piece allowing me to push the disk almost 1/2" off center)
Trans slid in. almost lol. Took a bit of fighting and wiggling and pushing, but went in about 20x easier than the first time.
I had a tiny sliver of a gap when I was done. I'm talking like a millimeter.