Can't disconnect master cylinder line from slave
#1
Can't disconnect master cylinder line from slave
I'm trying to swap the clutch MC and I can't for the life of me disconnect pressure line the "quick" disconnect from the slave. I've tried using screwdrivers, fuel line disconnect tools, and I can't get the line to disconnect from the slave. Is there a special tool or does anyone have any tricks to get this line off? I've moved the plastic connector part of the quick disconnect seemingly as far as i can, but it won't come loose. Any suggestions?
#2
9 Second Club
The plastic sleeve does look well pushed in, but you might also need to give the line a little push in at the same time in case there is some pressure in there preventing it from releasing.
There shouldnt be, but there might.
There are proper tools for engaging the plastic sleeve, but I've found a very long pair of pointy nose pliers works great. Straight, angled, whatever suits you.
You can sort of slide them in and use the taper of the nose itself to engage the plastic sleeve and then as a lever to push it right in
But they're handy tools to have anyway
There shouldnt be, but there might.
There are proper tools for engaging the plastic sleeve, but I've found a very long pair of pointy nose pliers works great. Straight, angled, whatever suits you.
You can sort of slide them in and use the taper of the nose itself to engage the plastic sleeve and then as a lever to push it right in
But they're handy tools to have anyway
#3
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
I had a heck of a time trying to get mine off so I ordered this tool from WS6store. With the tool I was able to disconnect the fitting in a matter of seconds:
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=5383
I’d recommend cracking open the bleeder if you have a speedbleeder or can access the factory bleeder.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=5383
I’d recommend cracking open the bleeder if you have a speedbleeder or can access the factory bleeder.
#4
I had a heck of a time trying to get mine off so I ordered this tool from WS6store. With the tool I was able to disconnect the fitting in a matter of seconds:
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=5383
I’d recommend cracking open the bleeder if you have a speedbleeder or can access the factory bleeder.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=5383
I’d recommend cracking open the bleeder if you have a speedbleeder or can access the factory bleeder.
#6
Perhaps my problem is I'm not pulling hard enough on the line to pull it out of the slave. Do you really have to pull all that hard to get it out, or should it more or less be easy to release? I didn't want to pull too hard to prevent damaging the line. Does it require a firm yank to get the line out?
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#9
I've worked on cars for 25+ years and this ain't my first rodeo, but this damn hydraulic line is making me question my choice of hobbies in life.....
#10
9 Second Club
It should be easy to get a 1/4 drive 11mm socket onto the bleeder, although yes a hole in the tunnel will make that easier
Can you remove the plastic sleeve to see how badly fucked it is ? Because with it in the position in the photo...ie fully pressed in, the clutch fitting should release.
In fact...it almost looks a little out already. What happens if you press the clutch pedal at the minute ?
And what job are you actually trying to do ?
Can you remove the plastic sleeve to see how badly fucked it is ? Because with it in the position in the photo...ie fully pressed in, the clutch fitting should release.
In fact...it almost looks a little out already. What happens if you press the clutch pedal at the minute ?
And what job are you actually trying to do ?
#12
I tried using a 7/16 on a swivel with a 1/4 ratchet and there's so little room to work i couldn't get it on the bleeder.
I'm changing the clutch MC to hopefully cure a sinking clutch pedal issue. I have no leaks that i can find so I'm starting with the MC. I'm reusing the hydraulic line & reservoir and only replacing the MC itself.
I've already disconnected the clutch pedal from the MC and unbolted the MC from the firewall so I haven't tried pushing the clutch pedal while simultaneously trying to remove the hydraulic line, but I can hook it back up and give it a shot. I've ordered the tool he's using in that video but it hasn't arrived yet.
I'm essentially following along with the video below and planned on doing the drill mod while I had it out.
I'm changing the clutch MC to hopefully cure a sinking clutch pedal issue. I have no leaks that i can find so I'm starting with the MC. I'm reusing the hydraulic line & reservoir and only replacing the MC itself.
I've already disconnected the clutch pedal from the MC and unbolted the MC from the firewall so I haven't tried pushing the clutch pedal while simultaneously trying to remove the hydraulic line, but I can hook it back up and give it a shot. I've ordered the tool he's using in that video but it hasn't arrived yet.
I'm essentially following along with the video below and planned on doing the drill mod while I had it out.
Last edited by JT2000WS6; 06-12-2018 at 07:39 PM.
#14
9 Second Club
I've never had to open the bleeder to do this in the 15 years or so I've been using the LS engine etc.
If the hydraulic system is working, there should not, there cannot be any pressure in the system. But if he's taking other parts apart and interfering with them...perhaps that scenario could arise.
But yes an extension hose on the bleeder so it is more accessible in the future is always good sense. It's a shitty design from GM.
But you need to be able to operate the clutch tom see if the line is just stuck, still fully connected or maybe already released. If it is disconnected the pedal should now be rock solid.
if it's still connected the clutch should operate.
if it's somewhere in the middle...maybe the pressure in the line when you press the pedal might force it out, or maybe leak some fluid to give you an indication it is partially undone and able to come apart.
Although if really stuck, I think it's pretty easy to disconnect the line from the master ? Think it's just held in with a dowel pin ? Been a long time since I ever looked at a stock one
If the hydraulic system is working, there should not, there cannot be any pressure in the system. But if he's taking other parts apart and interfering with them...perhaps that scenario could arise.
But yes an extension hose on the bleeder so it is more accessible in the future is always good sense. It's a shitty design from GM.
But you need to be able to operate the clutch tom see if the line is just stuck, still fully connected or maybe already released. If it is disconnected the pedal should now be rock solid.
if it's still connected the clutch should operate.
if it's somewhere in the middle...maybe the pressure in the line when you press the pedal might force it out, or maybe leak some fluid to give you an indication it is partially undone and able to come apart.
Although if really stuck, I think it's pretty easy to disconnect the line from the master ? Think it's just held in with a dowel pin ? Been a long time since I ever looked at a stock one
#15
TECH Fanatic
Only once I’ve had to open the bleeder to get the line removed. There was a lot of pressure built up and would not let it release. I think the non deepwell 1/4 inch sockets are a little too short. I normally slide a deep well socket on then attach my 1/4 inch drive after that cause lack of room.
I use two flat head screw drivers to press the plastic peice in which is a very crude method. I press the line in towards the slave a bit and it comes undone. Every now and then it takes a little longer but it comes undone.
I use two flat head screw drivers to press the plastic peice in which is a very crude method. I press the line in towards the slave a bit and it comes undone. Every now and then it takes a little longer but it comes undone.
#16
A sad, pathetic update...
I reconnected the MC to the clutch pedal and it still compresses with no leaks coming from the hydraulic line, so it appears to still be connected.
I received the tool from WS6 project today and tried using it. All it did was tear the plastic piece that it's supposed to push in and the line still won't disconnect. The line will spin, but it will not move a bit in or out at all.
I've never had such a difficult time with something so simple in my life. I've replaced fuel lines before. I've replaced multiple a/c compressors and corresponding coolant lines before. I know how these fittings work. This thing flat out will not budge.
My next step, or Plan B if you will, is to suction out the reservoir, clamp off the rubber line going to the MC, then remove the reservoir. Then try to drop the MC from the bottom and take the pin out of the hydraulic line on the MC side and just leave the braided line in the transmission. I don't see any other way to get this done. Then feed the new MC back from the bottom back into place.
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I reconnected the MC to the clutch pedal and it still compresses with no leaks coming from the hydraulic line, so it appears to still be connected.
I received the tool from WS6 project today and tried using it. All it did was tear the plastic piece that it's supposed to push in and the line still won't disconnect. The line will spin, but it will not move a bit in or out at all.
I've never had such a difficult time with something so simple in my life. I've replaced fuel lines before. I've replaced multiple a/c compressors and corresponding coolant lines before. I know how these fittings work. This thing flat out will not budge.
My next step, or Plan B if you will, is to suction out the reservoir, clamp off the rubber line going to the MC, then remove the reservoir. Then try to drop the MC from the bottom and take the pin out of the hydraulic line on the MC side and just leave the braided line in the transmission. I don't see any other way to get this done. Then feed the new MC back from the bottom back into place.
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#17
9 Second Club
That picture speaks volumes.
You've butchered the **** out of the plastic sleeve. No wonder it isnt releasing.
Rip the plastic sleeve out, get a new one and use it to release
You've butchered the **** out of the plastic sleeve. No wonder it isnt releasing.
Rip the plastic sleeve out, get a new one and use it to release
#18
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
Damn, sorry to hear that tool didn't work for you. As mentioned I would get another sleeve, Tick sells them fortunately:
http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-ma...-c5-corvettes/
http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-ma...-c5-corvettes/
#19
Damn, sorry to hear that tool didn't work for you. As mentioned I would get another sleeve, Tick sells them fortunately:
http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-ma...-c5-corvettes/
http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-ma...-c5-corvettes/
Once I pull the old sleeve out how would I get the new one in? Do I have to cut it to get it around the line and then slide it in to disconnect?
Sorry for the dumb questions but I've never had to deal with one of these lines before and I don't want to eff up the slave.
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