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99’ Z28 Needs Clutch!! (Maybe?)

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Old 09-25-2018, 11:48 AM
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Default 99’ Z28 Needs Clutch!! (Maybe?)

So I recently bought as titled above a 1999 Camaro z28 with a six speed manual. I’m having a problem where if you try to shift to second fast or even slightly fast it grinds and doesn’t want to go in and sitting still, if you push in the clutch and put it into gear it grinds then too. I bled the clutch last night and it didn’t change a thing, so I’m wondering if it needs a new clutch or maybe just something in the slave? The clutch grabs fine and doesn’t feel like it’s slipping but idk.
Old 09-25-2018, 01:17 PM
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And if it’s the clutch, what’s the best clutch kit for the price?
Old 09-25-2018, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by lukenessmonster
And if it’s the clutch, what’s the best clutch kit for the price?
Monster!
Old 09-26-2018, 12:10 PM
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Read this. Also, how did you bleed the clutch?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...drill-mod.html
Old 09-27-2018, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmyp3353
Read this. Also, how did you bleed the clutch?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...drill-mod.html
I put the car up on our lift at work with someone sitting in the car, opened the bleed screw, and had him push the pedal down to the floor, then tightened the bleeder screw back up before he released the pedal.
Old 09-27-2018, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by lukenessmonster
So I recently bought as titled above a 1999 Camaro z28 with a six speed manual. I’m having a problem where if you try to shift to second fast or even slightly fast it grinds and doesn’t want to go in and sitting still, if you push in the clutch and put it into gear it grinds then too. I bled the clutch last night and it didn’t change a thing, so I’m wondering if it needs a new clutch or maybe just something in the slave? The clutch grabs fine and doesn’t feel like it’s slipping but idk.
That sounds exactly like a worn out pilot bearing / bushing to me. My 99 TA had the same issue and got harder to get into gear. If it is the Pilot bearing and goes on long enough it will wear the synchronizers.

My pilot was toast. The stock clutch also pictured had ~155,000 miles and seemed ok but it had gotten hot and was about done for all in all. It held up with with 418 whp for ~120,000+ miles. A friend let his go for several years and the pilot was almost gone in places. His car popped out of gear and made nasty grinding sounds.


That's my .02, best wishes with repairs.
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:46 AM
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Thanks for the advice, I’ll pull the trans down when I have some free time and see if the pilot bushing/bearing is bad, even if it isn’t that I pretty much have to pull the trans anyways if it needs rebuilt or needs a clutch. How would you tell if it did damage a synchro other than tearing the trans apart?
Old 09-27-2018, 09:45 PM
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There maybe other ways to test but the only one I know of is replacing the pilot and seeing if that fixes the issue. I've been told it driven a lot with the issue it will wear the synchronizers but if caught early and fixed they are usually ok. We caught mine fairly early just after the TA got a new rear end. I had RPM Transmission Magnum level 6 already on order so I really don't know what shape my T56,'s synchronizers were in when the transmissions were swapped.
Old 10-20-2018, 09:45 PM
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Finally got the trans pulled tonight! Had a lot of trouble with the slave line, it didn’t want to come off. Looks like the previous owner put a luk clutch in it but I’m not sure what kind yet. Are these supposed to have a pilot bushing or a pilot bearing? Mine has what looks like a bearing but I have taken the clutch off yet to see.

Last edited by lukenessmonster; 10-21-2018 at 12:06 PM.
Old 10-20-2018, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by lukenessmonster


I put the car up on our lift at work with someone sitting in the car, opened the bleed screw, and had him push the pedal down to the floor, then tightened the bleeder screw back up before he released the pedal.
I'm not sure if you did it wrong or just worded your post wrong. When you bleed the clutch it's the same as bleeding brakes. You have someone depress the pedal and then you crack the bleeder open and close it and have them release the pedal. If you open the bleeder before the pedal is depressed it will sometimes pull air into the line before the pedal is depressed and you really don't make as much progress getting it bled.
Old 10-21-2018, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
I'm not sure if you did it wrong or just worded your post wrong. When you bleed the clutch it's the same as bleeding brakes. You have someone depress the pedal and then you crack the bleeder open and close it and have them release the pedal. If you open the bleeder before the pedal is depressed it will sometimes pull air into the line before the pedal is depressed and you really don't make as much progress getting it bled.
I probably did word it wrong, bc like you said is exactly how I did it. But when I bled the clutch nothing but fluid came out, there was no air.
Old 10-21-2018, 07:42 PM
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google drill mod to clutch master cylinder
Old 10-22-2018, 07:35 PM
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So... I pulled the clutch today and it was completely wasted. Hot spots all over the flywheel and pressure plate with a lot of wear on the actual friction material. Ordered a new one to put in with a new pilot bearing and everything so hopefully that will fix the problem. Also, looks like someone rebuild this trans at one point but idk.




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