Clutch pedal travel
#1
Clutch pedal travel
I screwed up my knees while in Afghanistan and recently reinjured my left. I will be doing a clutch and hydro job soon and I was wondering if there is a way to limit the travel of the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch, to shift gears? I'm currently rev matching more than using the clutch. Also, I picked up a Tick MC, so not sure if that matters..
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You can also go with a smaller twin disc which will have a tighter engagement window. Then have the added benefit of a faster car too.
Consider the tilton HRB also if you go this route. It will also help decrease engagement window.
Consider the tilton HRB also if you go this route. It will also help decrease engagement window.
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Usually, with leg injuries, we talk about lowering effort first, which increases the travel. I'm sure Tick could provide their adjustable M/C with the stock bore (ie: stock effort and travel) but I also expect that configuration would make it harder to set things up with the pedal closer to the floor. (Because the additional travel is needed.)
#6
I might have explained what I'm wanting incorrectly. Right now there's too much pedal travel for me, I need to press the pedal too far down from it regular sitting height / position. From the pedals sitting position, I want to press down very little, where the travel it little,, to disengage to clutch, so I don't need to extend my leg/knee out as far.
I hope that makes more sense of what I'm wanting
I hope that makes more sense of what I'm wanting
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That makes sense. Are you looking for pedal action that is more like pivoting off your heel vs. stomping down on a plunger, then?
I think a lot of us are sensitive to the effort, still. You may be solving one problem with the M/C to inherit another. At the time I installed my Tick M/C, I had normal legs/joints and the effort was difficult. (I expect a few folks here have had a similar experience. Although, I remember my calf being what really got the work-out.)
I think a lot of us are sensitive to the effort, still. You may be solving one problem with the M/C to inherit another. At the time I installed my Tick M/C, I had normal legs/joints and the effort was difficult. (I expect a few folks here have had a similar experience. Although, I remember my calf being what really got the work-out.)
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Originally Posted by RONIN LSX
I might have explained what I'm wanting incorrectly. Right now there's too much pedal travel for me, I need to press the pedal too far down from it regular sitting height / position. From the pedals sitting position, I want to press down very little, where the travel it little,, to disengage to clutch, so I don't need to extend my leg/knee out as far.
I hope that makes more sense of what I'm wanting
I hope that makes more sense of what I'm wanting
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I might have explained what I'm wanting incorrectly. Right now there's too much pedal travel for me, I need to press the pedal too far down from it regular sitting height / position. From the pedals sitting position, I want to press down very little, where the travel it little,, to disengage to clutch, so I don't need to extend my leg/knee out as far.
I hope that makes more sense of what I'm wanting
I hope that makes more sense of what I'm wanting
#12
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#13
With the tick mc you could adjust the rod further out which would make the pedal sit up higher meaning that the clutch would disengage with the pedal at a higher point. The problem with this is that if you had it adjusted out and pushed the pedal all the waywto the floor it could over extend the clutch pressure plate or slave cylinder and cause damage or disengagement issues. You could potentially add your own pedal stop further up to ensure this doesn't happen
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Smaller OD clutch. Multi-disc clutches have smaller OD,s so the pressure plates fingers don't move as far to engage or disengage.
Tilton HRB. Requires less travel than stock in order to move even the stock clutch. Also, at higher RPM, sometimes the stocker needs to go in further to disengage. i've never fully understood that, but two friends with the tilton HRB do not have this same issue. Next time my tranny comes out, the tilton is going in. Given that you want short travel, the tilton will be more consistent at all rpm and be better for preventing gear clash due to incomplete disengagement.
Tick adjustable master. 7/8 will reduce travel at the expense of more required force. 3/4" will have the same travel as stock, and same force requirements as stock. but with the advantage of being adjustable, you can run the turnbuckle all the way up for max pedal height.
Install a bump stop under your clutch pedal so that it cannot over extend. This will give you a "floor" feel, but still keep you from fully extending your leg. Raise the rear, install bump stop, adjust height to the highest point you can get the pedal and still not have the rear tires turn.
#15
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You might be able to find a clutch cover that by design better suits your needs with less travel and a softer diaphragm, but ultimately you need enough clamp to hold whatever power is needed etc. And the shorter the travel the less friendly any engagement window will be. Although with a regular organic type disc this shouldnt be a major issue unless travel was ridiculously short.
But most clutches will require similar travel to release and engage which sort of brings you back to square one.
And I would not go for a smaller diameter clutch, as that will make any engagement window even worse and have far less torque holding ability for it.
Really you might be best just looking to modify the pedal itself to a more comfortable position so you can get a good range of motion to operate the clutch as best as possible.