LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

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-   -   LT1 T56 on LS1 (https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1917056-lt1-t56-ls1.html)

landstuhltaylor 03-18-2019 12:19 PM

LT1 T56 on LS1
 
Just posting this up so that people know there is another option. Front plate is not modified, input shaft has not been touched. Modern Driveline adapter bracket with a jack screw to set height and a Tilton bearing. McLeod pilot bushing to make up for the difference in input shaft length. My specific clutch splines do line up with the M29 input shaft splines so there should be no issue there.

https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...20&oe=5D4E31B9

red95T/A 03-23-2019 08:32 AM

Are you going to use an LS bell housing? What do you do about the input shaft being to short/ pilot bearing?

red95T/A 03-23-2019 08:36 AM

I have an opportunity to buy an LT1 T56 for 150.00 but by the time I buy all the swap parts I could buy an LS version. I have done the LS swap on a nv3500 but seems like the LT T56 is different from what I have read.

Mgill 03-23-2019 08:48 AM


Originally Posted by red95T/A (Post 20068328)
I have an opportunity to buy an LT1 T56 for 150.00 but by the time I buy all the swap parts I could buy an LS version. I have done the LS swap on a nv3500 but seems like the LT T56 is different from what I have read.

Should have jumped on it for $150. Input shaft is $150, mid plate $275, and bell housing $250. That ends up being much cheaper than any ls1 t56 I've found. I'm currently doing that swap now. Got an lt1 t56 for $700. The trans just can't be from a 93, then it gets complicated.

landstuhltaylor 03-23-2019 02:45 PM


Originally Posted by red95T/A (Post 20068326)
Are you going to use an LS bell housing? What do you do about the input shaft being to short/ pilot bearing?

I am reusing the bellhousing from my existing LS1 T56. The Mcleod pilot bushing 8617 makes up for the difference in input shaft length if you install it with the smaller diameter on the transmission side. It sits in the larger diameter portion of the crank which is already closer to the trans, and is then 0.400" longer than the stock pilot on top of that.

landstuhltaylor 03-23-2019 05:01 PM

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...9e1190231f.jpg

red95T/A 03-24-2019 06:58 AM

So with the throw out bearing you are using and the pilot bearing the only thing I would have to change would be the bell housing right?!

red95T/A 03-24-2019 07:08 AM

Do you have part numbers for the pilot, throw out bearing and slave you are using?

landstuhltaylor 03-24-2019 07:35 AM

I am using all LS1 clutch hydraulics. The throwout bearing is something I worked on with Modern Driveline and has some of their own specific parts that you can only order through them. I would advise contacting Paul Coffey at extension 4000 or Paul@theiremail as he is who I dealt with on this and was very familiar with what I was doing.

Tick master setup with a 3/4" Tilton master instead of the normal 7/8" (this would depend on what clutch you use)
Tilton 6000 series throwout bearing, 44mm piston, with a threaded collar and the McLeod adapter plate (I believe it's the Tilton 60-6231 but not 100% sure, MD took care of it)
McLeod 8617 pilot bearing
Quartermaster Optimum RR 7.25" twin disk clutch
LS1 bellhousing
LT1 M29 T56

That's the entire setup that is on the car. You will need to measure the clutch stack height in order to determine what height the release bearing needs to be. I had to use the small diameter 44mm piston instead of their normal setup because of the small diameter clutch. The complete throwout bearing assembly complete with lines and remote bleeder came to $420. It may not be the cheapest way to go but it was my only rules-compliant option to get shorter gearing in the car.

A lot of these parts that are on that list were already in the car with the LS1 T56. The only changes are the pilot, throwout bearing assembly, and the LT1 T56.

louieace1 04-14-2019 11:07 PM

97 t56
 

Originally Posted by landstuhltaylor (Post 20068698)
I am using all LS1 clutch hydraulics. The throwout bearing is something I worked on with Modern Driveline and has some of their own specific parts that you can only order through them. I would advise contacting Paul Coffey at extension 4000 or Paul@theiremail as he is who I dealt with on this and was very familiar with what I was doing.

Tick master setup with a 3/4" Tilton master instead of the normal 7/8" (this would depend on what clutch you use)
Tilton 6000 series throwout bearing, 44mm piston, with a threaded collar and the McLeod adapter plate (I believe it's the Tilton 60-6231 but not 100% sure, MD took care of it)
McLeod 8617 pilot bearing
Quartermaster Optimum RR 7.25" twin disk clutch
LS1 bellhousing
LT1 M29 T56

That's the entire setup that is on the car. You will need to measure the clutch stack height in order to determine what height the release bearing needs to be. I had to use the small diameter 44mm piston instead of their normal setup because of the small diameter clutch. The complete throwout bearing assembly complete with lines and remote bleeder came to $420. It may not be the cheapest way to go but it was my only rules-compliant option to get shorter gearing in the car.

A lot of these parts that are on that list were already in the car with the LS1 T56. The only changes are the pilot, throwout bearing assembly, and the LT1 T56.




wondering what flywheel you used on this set up, got a 97 camaro t56 and also could i use just a plain regular clutch instead of a fancy twin or other triple stacks clutches that cost thousands of dollars, just want to drive n not be racing

ElQueFør 04-16-2019 01:32 AM

Have you got a chance to run this LTx box behind and LSx yet? Very interesting.

landstuhltaylor 04-30-2019 11:32 AM


Originally Posted by louieace1 (Post 20080594)
wondering what flywheel you used on this set up, got a 97 camaro t56 and also could i use just a plain regular clutch instead of a fancy twin or other triple stacks clutches that cost thousands of dollars, just want to drive n not be racing

Quartermaster button flywheel (part of the clutch assembly) which is bolted to the OEM automatic flexplate


Originally Posted by ElQueFør (Post 20081169)
Have you got a chance to run this LTx box behind and LSx yet? Very interesting.

Not yet. Started the engine for the first time this weekend and need to start street tuning it probably next week.

AMP-D 04-30-2019 05:01 PM

Jason at TDP has designed an adapter to mount the LS factory slave to an LT mid plate which should save a couple hundred bucks on a conversion over the convention methods of mid plate, input shaft and bell housing.

ElQueFør 05-01-2019 04:32 AM

I'm glad to see that the options for sticking a manual behind an LS have grown to what they are.... Wasn't that long ago that a guy didn't really have the options that we have now.

landstuhltaylor 05-11-2019 08:36 PM

Just an update to this. It is running now although it only has street miles on it so far for tuning. First time driving it in anger will be next weekend but so far it has been flawless.

landstuhltaylor 06-01-2019 09:31 PM

It's run on course now, night and day difference. Not worth it for most people I imagine but it's a solid 1 second faster on an autocross course within the ESP ruleset. Aside from the Hoosiers I don't think I've done anything that has made this big of a difference.

ElQueFør 06-03-2019 12:57 AM

What do you mean when you say night and day difference?


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