Clutch pedal firm, but won’t return all the way
#1
Clutch pedal firm, but won’t return all the way
I replaced my clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. I’ve also installed Tick Performance’s QUICK remote speed bleeder. With the bleed valve cracked, the flow coming through is fine while pressing the clutch pedal repeatedly. I got the air out of the system, and the fluid is all fresh. I have a nice firm pedal now, but for some reason, the pedal will not return all the way. It’s like it stops an inch away from returning the full distance. However, if I lift off the pedal quickly, it will spring all the way back with no issues. The last bit only seems to stick when I let the clutch out slowly. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be wrong?
Last edited by AnotherDeadCylinder; 06-01-2019 at 11:15 PM.
#3
I haven’t got that far yet. I just got the transmission reinstalled and bled the line. I didn’t put new oil in the transmission yet, car is on jack stands. If I ran into a problem and had to remove the trans again, I didn’t want to waste money on oil that would have to get drained out again. Do you think running the car and going through the gears would make a difference?
#5
So this is a late update, but I have been driving the car a good bit to see if the clutch pedal improved. The shifting feels nice a smooth, and the pedal returns fully every time, but the problem is still there a bit. That very first inch of clutch depression has no pressure. It’s a very small range, like the amount it would go down if I was resting my foot on the clutch. But upon releasing the pedal after pressing it all the way down, that last inch or so of travel hesitates on the way back up for a split second, then returns all the way with a *thud*, like it’s spring loaded. Could it be possible that the new master cylinder I put in is bad, or maybe the rod is binding up on something in some way?
#6
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So this is a late update, but I have been driving the car a good bit to see if the clutch pedal improved. The shifting feels nice a smooth, and the pedal returns fully every time, but the problem is still there a bit. That very first inch of clutch depression has no pressure. It’s a very small range, like the amount it would go down if I was resting my foot on the clutch. But upon releasing the pedal after pressing it all the way down, that last inch or so of travel hesitates on the way back up for a split second, then returns all the way with a *thud*, like it’s spring loaded. Could it be possible that the new master cylinder I put in is bad, or maybe the rod is binding up on something in some way?
#7
12 Second Club
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You still have a little bit of air in there. take your time and try lifting the front or back end of the car to work all the air out. Pump the pedal slow.
Do you have the tick adjustable master cylinder? or just the bleeder?
I would highly recommend the adjustable master if you don't have that already.
Do you have the tick adjustable master cylinder? or just the bleeder?
I would highly recommend the adjustable master if you don't have that already.
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#8
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You still have a little bit of air in there. take your time and try lifting the front or back end of the car to work all the air out. Pump the pedal slow.
Do you have the tick adjustable master cylinder? or just the bleeder?
I would highly recommend the adjustable master if you don't have that already.
Do you have the tick adjustable master cylinder? or just the bleeder?
I would highly recommend the adjustable master if you don't have that already.
#9
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I developed this kind of problem last year. Took the master cylinder apart and found all kinds of sludge in it. Must have used the wrong kind of rubber hose from reservoir to master. Cleaned and flushed the whole system, and new hose.
Still had problem with the pedal returning all the way to top. Removed the helper spring from the pedal assembly and all has been good since. Something about that assist mechanism was binding up after 20 years.
Still had problem with the pedal returning all the way to top. Removed the helper spring from the pedal assembly and all has been good since. Something about that assist mechanism was binding up after 20 years.
#10
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I developed this kind of problem last year. Took the master cylinder apart and found all kinds of sludge in it. Must have used the wrong kind of rubber hose from reservoir to master. Cleaned and flushed the whole system, and new hose.
Still had problem with the pedal returning all the way to top. Removed the helper spring from the pedal assembly and all has been good since. Something about that assist mechanism was binding up after 20 years.
Still had problem with the pedal returning all the way to top. Removed the helper spring from the pedal assembly and all has been good since. Something about that assist mechanism was binding up after 20 years.
#11
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In case someone else sees this and feels the same issue, I have to update w this: remove the spring. Removeeeeee ittttt. Omg it's night and day... Completely different feel. Ef that spring! Pain in the *** getting out, but worth every moment.
#13
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#15
I'm having a similar issue with my 2002 T/A - 80K miles and as I was coming home today, I went to shift into N but didn't, and let the clutch out pretty quick and got a good bump. Then, when I went to pull into my driveway, shifted into reverse, and noticed that the pedal wouldn't return completely. I then circled my neighborhood to see what was up, but what I noticed was that he clutch is fully engaged, not slipping or anything, but when I press the pedal to the floor it is like the pedal is starting at its normal point, but stopping at the floor only hallway through the full range, so the clutch is not actually disengaging. Glad I realized this quickly, as I left it in first and limped it home thinking I wouldn't be able to get it back in gear if I took it out.
Also, I just bought this car a few months ago, and everything has been good. I was planning on changing and bleeding the clutch fluid very soon, and it is very dirty. The M/C looks full to me. I'm hoping this is a fluid / air issue and not a fork or release bearing. Could old fluid with lots of moisture cause this? And I'll remove the spring pronto
Also, I just bought this car a few months ago, and everything has been good. I was planning on changing and bleeding the clutch fluid very soon, and it is very dirty. The M/C looks full to me. I'm hoping this is a fluid / air issue and not a fork or release bearing. Could old fluid with lots of moisture cause this? And I'll remove the spring pronto
#16
Checking back in - I went to look for the pedal spring, but didn't have time to remove it. Anyway, while playing around, I was using my hand to work the clutch pedal and voila! It snapped back into place. Now it is working fine again, but I think it was something to do with the spring and I will look to remove it ASAP. Thanks!
#17
Bruh did you ever solve this haha I know it's a year later but it's plaguing me... Like... All new slave and master from tick, shifts fine, doesn't affect that .. but sometimes it'll come up a majority of the way and then hang and then pop back up after a delay... It's so weird. Sounds just like your issue. Was hoping you'll see this and let me know if you fixed it.
Last edited by AnotherDeadCylinder; 10-28-2020 at 08:29 AM.
#18
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Clayton, bro, it's like you knew I was going to be coming back here! Yeah, a year later and I still have this issue. I actually got a Tick Master Cylinder and was planning on replacing the stock master soon, hoping that it would fix the issue. So thank you for resurrecting this post, and thank you QwkTrip for the advice! The two of you just helped improve my 2020, which is a miraculous feat to say the least. I would have never known about removing the spring and probably would have been salty af if the Tick Master had the same issue at the pedal. Bros of the Year Award to you both, thanks again!
#19
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Clayton, bro, it's like you knew I was going to be coming back here! Yeah, a year later and I still have this issue. I actually got a Tick Master Cylinder and was planning on replacing the stock master soon, hoping that it would fix the issue. So thank you for resurrecting this post, and thank you QwkTrip for the advice! The two of you just helped improve my 2020, which is a miraculous feat to say the least. I would have never known about removing the spring and probably would have been salty af if the Tick Master had the same issue at the pedal. Bros of the Year Award to you both, thanks again!