Here's how to bleed the clutch without getting under the car.
04-18-2006, 01:57 PM
#41
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So I'm gonna give this a try, one quick question, I'm going to be removing all the lines and emptying the fluid so i can replace it and do the drill mod........
Can i put the lines back empty and then fill it with fluid through the resevoir, then bleed the system using the mighty vac method?
Can i put the lines back empty and then fill it with fluid through the resevoir, then bleed the system using the mighty vac method?
04-18-2006, 05:23 PM
#42
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I would like to see the design of the master cylinder piston and seals. It surely is not a leather cup like used to be used to pump up Coleman stoves. 
But seriously I bet they are just o-rings, which makes you wonder how they can flip. After all chevy has a TSB on it using the mityvac. This doesn't mean its foolproof but it probably means its ok. I just had the drill mod done and my car was pressure bleed from the slave. Unfortunately my clutch engagement had moved lower to the floow so i did some research and put 12 hg on the mityvac and two huge bubles came out within two partial strokes of the clutch. Now my clutch works as before like new. Caution is always a good thing but maybe this should be added to the myths like !fra causes heat soak of the manifold or using 5 and 6th gear causes carbon build up unless your over 2500 rpm and going 90+.
Lets see some logic and proof!
But seriously I bet they are just o-rings, which makes you wonder how they can flip. After all chevy has a TSB on it using the mityvac. This doesn't mean its foolproof but it probably means its ok. I just had the drill mod done and my car was pressure bleed from the slave. Unfortunately my clutch engagement had moved lower to the floow so i did some research and put 12 hg on the mityvac and two huge bubles came out within two partial strokes of the clutch. Now my clutch works as before like new. Caution is always a good thing but maybe this should be added to the myths like !fra causes heat soak of the manifold or using 5 and 6th gear causes carbon build up unless your over 2500 rpm and going 90+.Lets see some logic and proof!
04-18-2006, 05:50 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by anarchy99
This little tool works great for bleeding your M6. A guy in my local f-body club makes them and it makes bleeding everything super easy. It cost him $48.00 to make them and he sells them for $50.00.
04-18-2006, 11:08 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
Give me info now!
Yes, I want one also, but long enough to run up beside my reservoir.
Country Boy, I love your sig........ I feel and say the same things, everytime when I have to work on my car too.
Last edited by FRDnemesis; 04-18-2006 at 11:14 PM.
04-18-2006, 11:17 PM
#45
Hey, you can get a cheap vac pump from Harbor Freight for $19.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474
I get a lot of cheap tools for my pit/travel box there. I don't have to worry about losing my good tools at the night night drags or being stolen in pit!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474
I get a lot of cheap tools for my pit/travel box there. I don't have to worry about losing my good tools at the night night drags or being stolen in pit!
04-19-2006, 02:15 PM
#46
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ok, so my pedal engagement moves up and down and sometimes the pedal goes to the floor and i pull it up and it comes right back up...a shop said the slaves sticking.....new slave though...soooo i used the mighy vac and as i push the pedal to the floor the vacuum starts to go away...pretty much to 0....so then i release the pedal and it goes back up to 12-15"...i figure its workin since i see the fluid level change a little....i continue doing it slowly and the pedal went to the floor and pressure slowly bleeding to 0 again...no change in fluid level....just losin pressure....now i dont know how well this mighty vac i bought is workin cause its oozin some fluid out of the handle area but i give it a squeeze to raise the vacuum back to 10....then when i pull the pedal up it goes from 10" to 20".....am i missing something??? it seems like i might be screwin it up or my system is in bad shape....my master/slave were replaced w/ mcleod adjustable and new slave at same time, not much use out of them for a few months though cause car was getting new motor....im gonna go test drive and try it again later though...maybe the car just has to "walk it off"....then ill bleed it again
04-22-2006, 03:09 PM
#47
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I read about this clutch bleeding method and it made a hell of a lot a sense, especially after spending some quality time back and forth underneath the car bleeding it the conventional way. So I went out and bought one. In a word, this vacuum pump method is THE ****! I could not believe all the air still left in the lines and this way is CLEAN. Simply AWSOME!!!! & worth the 50 bucks (Autozone was closed so I went to Advanced and got the Actron pump).
The car drives awsome with the Fidanza and the Spec 2+. Now for a 500 mile breakin, hope I can keep my foot out of it.
The car drives awsome with the Fidanza and the Spec 2+. Now for a 500 mile breakin, hope I can keep my foot out of it.
04-22-2006, 05:21 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by rare bird
I read about this clutch bleeding method and it made a hell of a lot a sense, especially after spending some quality time back and forth underneath the car bleeding it the conventional way. So I went out and bought one. In a word, this vacuum pump method is THE ****! I could not believe all the air still left in the lines and this way is CLEAN. Simply AWSOME!!!! & worth the 50 bucks (Autozone was closed so I went to Advanced and got the Actron pump).
The car drives awsome with the Fidanza and the Spec 2+. Now for a 500 mile breakin, hope I can keep my foot out of it.
The car drives awsome with the Fidanza and the Spec 2+. Now for a 500 mile breakin, hope I can keep my foot out of it.
I was suprised. That, however, did not fix my pedal sticking problem. So I bought a new slave, master, clutch/fw/pp, and we'll see how it is after I install it. 
06-12-2006, 03:50 PM
#51
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OK I have a question. I tried this today and got no bubbles to come out. The vacuum system itself whould not hold pressure. After trying it the second time and relieving pressure I took the tube out and some bubbles came up through the tube. After doing this 3 times I went out for a test drive only to find out my clutch engages further back then normal. The clutch was replaced right before I bought the car about 5 months ago. I dont know whats wrong with the car. Should I replace the master or slave? Any suggestions are welcomed.
-Thanks Brandon
-Thanks Brandon
06-12-2006, 07:31 PM
#52
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So your saying the clutch engagment is higher up now? This could be due to the fact that you got all the air out. Is the clutch working better now?
06-13-2006, 01:49 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by lt1_man
Yeah it engages further back now. The clutch feels better its just that it engages further back. What can I do to change that?
-Brandon
-Brandon
06-13-2006, 01:52 PM
#55
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By getting rid of all the air in your system, it gets rid of the mushy feeling at the top of the pedal. When you get rid of this it means that you will have better response from your clutch pedal because it will be engaging and disengaging at the top of the pedal travel.
06-13-2006, 04:13 PM
#56
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Yeah when the pedel is almost all the way out that is when the clutch engages. I guess it just threw me off because all of the other cars I drive that are manuel engage alot sooner.
-Brandon
-Brandon
06-15-2006, 06:25 PM
#57
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I thought engagement at the point of pedal release is a sign of wear out clutch? WOW this is a new concept for me... My engagement point is and always been at the middle. Can a bad slave lead to clutch engagement point moving futhur out?
06-15-2006, 08:26 PM
#59
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There are some factors to consider. Has the flywheel ever been cut? Whats the thinkness of the flywheel? Type of clutch disk? Did your clutch setup require shims? Air in the system?
As long as the clutch grips well and has no slipping (of course depending on the type of clutch and hp) you should be fine. You can't always go by what you have verses the next guy.
As long as the clutch grips well and has no slipping (of course depending on the type of clutch and hp) you should be fine. You can't always go by what you have verses the next guy.
09-13-2006, 07:39 PM
#60
Carquest has a vaccum bleeder kit similar to this for like $70, but well worth it. Its not plastic and has a quality gague on it, also a 3 year warranty as well. I use the hell out of that thing, perfect for bleeding the system on LS1's, takes one person and no time at all.