New Spec 2+ installed... Now hard to shift gears.
07-20-2006, 11:30 PM
#1
New Spec 2+ installed... Now hard to shift gears. I just installed my Spec 2+. Grabs well with a little chatter but nothing too bad. We used the shim and had the flywheel resurfaced. But the clutch pedal is no stiffer than the stock clutch.
My problem is that when the car is running, I have a very hard time shifting gears. It's obvious that it is not fully disengaging. When sitting still, it clunks before even going all the way into gear. And when moving, I have to ease it and let it fall into the gears.
I've tried the mighty vac with no luck. And I've not been able to get the socket on the bleeder, but will continue to try.
Other than bleeding, is there anything that sounds like I am messing up? Like am I just screwed and need an adjustable master cylinder?
My problem is that when the car is running, I have a very hard time shifting gears. It's obvious that it is not fully disengaging. When sitting still, it clunks before even going all the way into gear. And when moving, I have to ease it and let it fall into the gears.
I've tried the mighty vac with no luck. And I've not been able to get the socket on the bleeder, but will continue to try.
Other than bleeding, is there anything that sounds like I am messing up? Like am I just screwed and need an adjustable master cylinder?
07-20-2006, 11:47 PM
#2
you cant get on the bleeder because of the shim.. it moved your bleeder forward towards the bell housing
(I speak from experience when I installed my 3+)
It does sound like you need to bleed that line. I bled mine, the same way I bleed my brakes ( some one pumps, valve open, pump and hold, close valve)
Do you have updated slave and updated master with drill mod?
(I speak from experience when I installed my 3+)
It does sound like you need to bleed that line. I bled mine, the same way I bleed my brakes ( some one pumps, valve open, pump and hold, close valve)
Do you have updated slave and updated master with drill mod?
07-21-2006, 12:32 AM
#3
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I'm in the same situation. Resurfaced stock flywheel, installed 2+ with shim and have been having the same symptoms since. Thought I got it correct by bleeding with a mityvac from the slave but the problem has since come back. I'm getting burnt out from trying different bleeding techniques with poor results. I got a new master and slave, guess I might have to call Spec or loose this clutch.
07-21-2006, 07:06 AM
#4
Originally Posted by GR33N GoblinM6
you cant get on the bleeder because of the shim.. it moved your bleeder forward towards the bell housing
(I speak from experience when I installed my 3+)
It does sound like you need to bleed that line. I bled mine, the same way I bleed my brakes ( some one pumps, valve open, pump and hold, close valve)
(I speak from experience when I installed my 3+)
It does sound like you need to bleed that line. I bled mine, the same way I bleed my brakes ( some one pumps, valve open, pump and hold, close valve)
Originally Posted by GR33N GoblinM6
Do you have updated slave and updated master with drill mod?
So do I have to pull this stupid thing loose from the bell housing again? Please say no, 'cause I have the factory torque arm on here and it's a pain to mess with.
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07-22-2006, 02:32 PM
#9
LEt it break in for about 700 miles. The 3+ longer then all of my stg 3's but now shifts good. My clutch did exactly what the thread starters is doing untill I gave it a good breakin and then started hammering on it .
This may sound like bull **** as it is what I said when Spec told me to break it in for a little longer then I am use to with the spec 3. I talked to matt at spec for this info.
This may sound like bull **** as it is what I said when Spec told me to break it in for a little longer then I am use to with the spec 3. I talked to matt at spec for this info.