Can you diagnose this?: clutch hydraulics
#1
Staging Lane
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Diagnosed! McLeod clutch hydraulic issue
Two weeks ago: Rebuilt McLeod master cylinder, reinstalled and bled the whole system with the front elevated. After excercising it a bunch it firmed up for a 10 minute test drive and was firm the next morning. Then...constant problems with low engagement and varying engagement.
Today, bleed #1: Bled it again with the car perfectly level. Went GREAT! Super-firm pedal, no softness at all. Went for a test drive and it stayed ROCK SOLID until about 10-15 minutes of city driving. Then it got soft with an engagement near the floor.
Today, bleed #2: Tried bleed again with driver's side inclined (considering position of bleed screw). Got it rock solid again, but then 5 minutes into the test drive it GOT SOFT AGAIN!
I have run out of ideas. I can still "pump it up" during driving which normally indicates air in the system. I don't think there is air initially in the system after bleeding because the pedal is PERFECT until I drive it around awhile. There is no fluid in the master cylinder boot and no seal fragments in the reservoir.
I need some serious help before I totally lose it. I need to race the car on Oct 7 and then going to MFBA Road America the next week.
Today, bleed #1: Bled it again with the car perfectly level. Went GREAT! Super-firm pedal, no softness at all. Went for a test drive and it stayed ROCK SOLID until about 10-15 minutes of city driving. Then it got soft with an engagement near the floor.
Today, bleed #2: Tried bleed again with driver's side inclined (considering position of bleed screw). Got it rock solid again, but then 5 minutes into the test drive it GOT SOFT AGAIN!
I have run out of ideas. I can still "pump it up" during driving which normally indicates air in the system. I don't think there is air initially in the system after bleeding because the pedal is PERFECT until I drive it around awhile. There is no fluid in the master cylinder boot and no seal fragments in the reservoir.
I need some serious help before I totally lose it. I need to race the car on Oct 7 and then going to MFBA Road America the next week.
Last edited by Machine; 09-30-2006 at 11:45 PM.
#4
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Since air is getting in, you have a bad seal somewhere. It can only be the slave or master--as you know. I believe with the master, it's possible for the fluid to blow back and forth past the seals without actually leaking out of the system.
#6
Staging Lane
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Thinking the same thing, I just insulated the lines and it didn't resolve it. I think it must be the MC seal. I occassionally am having firm pedal, but rarely. It seems to come out of nowhere, which makes me think it isn't air.
#7
Staging Lane
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Insulating the line didn't help....but I do have some new information!
If I push the pedal to the floor and reeaaally slowly let it back up, it will sometimes have a firm pedal for the next depression.
This is my theory: The cylinder cup is getting tilted/jammed on the return. Keeping pressure on the cup from the top side keeps it oriented properly and helps give it a better chance to return.
What to do?:
Should I try to get a finer cylinder hone to reduce the friction on the return?
Should I try to stretch the spring or go back to the original?
Should I wait it out and hope that the cylinder cup wears itself in?
Comments?
If I push the pedal to the floor and reeaaally slowly let it back up, it will sometimes have a firm pedal for the next depression.
This is my theory: The cylinder cup is getting tilted/jammed on the return. Keeping pressure on the cup from the top side keeps it oriented properly and helps give it a better chance to return.
What to do?:
Should I try to get a finer cylinder hone to reduce the friction on the return?
Should I try to stretch the spring or go back to the original?
Should I wait it out and hope that the cylinder cup wears itself in?
Comments?
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#8
Staging Lane
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Well, I think I figured out what has been going on with my McLeod master cylinder.
The piston is galling.
http://www.americanconscience.com/im...eod piston.jpg
I re-honed the cylinder, put the old piston back in, and took it for a test drive. It is better but not perfect. It still "sticks" occassionally, even after I spent a lot of care with a cylinder hone and follow-up with a fine-grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel (to hopefully plateau the surface to remove any high spots from the hone).
I'll give it a couple days to see how it goes. After that, I think I will give it up and go with a different brand.
Does the piston really need to be this tight at the front edge? I wouldn't think that it is necessary, since the cylinder cup is doing the work. Thoughts?
The piston is galling.
http://www.americanconscience.com/im...eod piston.jpg
I re-honed the cylinder, put the old piston back in, and took it for a test drive. It is better but not perfect. It still "sticks" occassionally, even after I spent a lot of care with a cylinder hone and follow-up with a fine-grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel (to hopefully plateau the surface to remove any high spots from the hone).
I'll give it a couple days to see how it goes. After that, I think I will give it up and go with a different brand.
Does the piston really need to be this tight at the front edge? I wouldn't think that it is necessary, since the cylinder cup is doing the work. Thoughts?