Gotta Love the T56
02-12-2007, 05:48 PM
#1
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Gotta Love the T56 You might have covered it a million times. I just joined yall forums and I checked it out before I did it. But My clutch pedal is sticking to the floor. Do I need to bleed the line? And also To change my tranny fluid. Would you run Royal Purple? I do all my work myself and I am a really good gearhead I have no plans on drilling a hole in my floorboard though. Appriciate the help.
2000 TA
Slightly Mods.
2000 TA
Slightly Mods.
02-12-2007, 05:59 PM
#2
Bleeding the hydraulics would be a good first place to start...it is certainly the cheapest of your options. A search for the "drill mod" on here might be something to look into as well...the stock braided lines have a restriction in them that is sometimes blamed for this condition.
As for the tranny fluid, I've used regular Dex III, Mobil 1 ATF, Specialty Formulations MTFGlide, and Torco ATF. I like the Torco I have in now, but it was pricey. Just use whatever you're comfortable with. The people that rebuilt my T-56 (T-56 Rebuilds, a board sponsor) don't recommend the Royal Purple anymore if I'm not mistaken...not sure on the reason for that though.
www.installuniversity.com has some good write-ups on the drill mod and such...it is under LS1 Vehicle Install Documents, and again on the top left, Install Documents, scroll to the bottom under the Transmission subtitle.
As for the tranny fluid, I've used regular Dex III, Mobil 1 ATF, Specialty Formulations MTFGlide, and Torco ATF. I like the Torco I have in now, but it was pricey. Just use whatever you're comfortable with. The people that rebuilt my T-56 (T-56 Rebuilds, a board sponsor) don't recommend the Royal Purple anymore if I'm not mistaken...not sure on the reason for that though.
www.installuniversity.com has some good write-ups on the drill mod and such...it is under LS1 Vehicle Install Documents, and again on the top left, Install Documents, scroll to the bottom under the Transmission subtitle.
02-12-2007, 10:20 PM
#5
From my searching the majority say to try bleading your clucth master cylinder if you still have the problem replace the clutch master. Honestly I don't think the drill mod will help but I would still recomend doing it. I have the same problem my clutch pedal always felt alittle different after a wot run. Since I installed my headers the pedal started sticking and I have problems hitting 2nd at wot. I have a new master on the way and plan on changing it this weekend.
02-13-2007, 06:54 AM
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Headers have a way of overheating the hydraulic fluid in the release system. I have found that proper insulation of the line goes along way to bring the system back correct operation.
02-13-2007, 02:35 PM
#7
Originally Posted by calhoon
Headers have a way of overheating the hydraulic fluid in the release system. I have found that proper insulation of the line goes along way to bring the system back correct operation.
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02-13-2007, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by calhoon
Headers have a way of overheating the hydraulic fluid in the release system. I have found that proper insulation of the line goes along way to bring the system back correct operation.
Seems like it would be so much less headaches, stupid hydraulics.
02-14-2007, 06:49 AM
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02-22-2007, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by calhoon
Cables are old a clunky. Properly installed, hydraulic releases are by far the best. If you check Ford dumped the poorly performing cables for the new'05 & beyond Mustang.
The cable clutches on the 99-04 Mustangs had great feel and few problems.
02-22-2007, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
That won't have enough of an impact to create a stuck pedal...
josh
02-22-2007, 02:25 PM
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Raghead
If you really knew what you were talking about you would know the years of adjustment problems that those old ( yep clunky) cables caused. They were a tad older than '99 ..try Maverick days! ( '70s)There is a whole aftermarket industry selling upgrades to those to make them work right. Hydraulics are the only( modern) way.
If you really knew what you were talking about you would know the years of adjustment problems that those old ( yep clunky) cables caused. They were a tad older than '99 ..try Maverick days! ( '70s)There is a whole aftermarket industry selling upgrades to those to make them work right. Hydraulics are the only( modern) way.
02-22-2007, 07:31 PM
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IMHO, GM should've stuck with the Z-Bar 
I never missed a shift or had a stuck pedal in my 70 T/A
I'd powershift that thing like no tomorrow without any issues
On the other hand, when it was my daily driver, my left leg was twice the size of my right
I never missed a shift or had a stuck pedal in my 70 T/A
I'd powershift that thing like no tomorrow without any issues
On the other hand, when it was my daily driver, my left leg was twice the size of my right
02-22-2007, 10:08 PM
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I agree with snake eater. I used to want to change to hydraulic on my 55, but hearing all the problems you all have with these, I am glad I did not. You can make the old Z bar systems work perfecly with a far better feel with heim joints and have perfect operation. The left leg problem is easy to cure with a good light variable pressure plate and a sintered iron disk. I like diaphram units for the quick clean disengagements or an adjustable Long style pressure plate. I don't know what some people like about the cable clutches. I think they provide no feel at all, and an adjustment nightmare. Tto each his own though. Some people can feel certain leg motions better than others. Best luck to all. There is nothing more anoying than an improperly disengaging clutch.
