Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

I have had this problem before I did the drill mod. So I did the drill mod and replaced the fluid with new fluid. The first run trying to shift from 2-3 the clutch pedal layed on the floor and it would barely engage. 3-4 the clutch would not engage, layed on the floor. I had to hold it near 4th and wait for the gate to open. So before and after the drill mod with new fluid on an 02 car and it still does the same thing. Driving normal it is fine, no problems. Yes the first run the fluid turned a darker color.

I read that the flexplates heat up to fast and cause the teeth to seperate when the car is at a high rpm. After the rpm's drop down the plate will align and let the car shift. Any more info on this? If this is the case, where can I get an upgraded flexplate? I don't think it's the MC because it shifts fine, normal driving. Also the clutch still has a good grabbing point. Car has 52k on it. No performance mods.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Read the manual trans FAQ at the top of this section.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/510788-manual-transmission-faq-look-here-first.html
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
lots of stock clutch guys have these problems.

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

this happens due to slippage. The clutch gets hot and will boil the fluid. every stock clutch I have replaced only have 3 small place on the PP and flywheel that show wear. Those spots are right at the end of the struts/springs. The actual friction area is about the size of a silver dollar each

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

I am the second owner and the Ford dealership (I know) that I bought it from gave me a warranty against anything breaking. Will GM (if need be) replace the parts with the stock ones or can I ask to upgrade to the LS6 clutch and so on? I mean Chevy won't be paying for it either way.

Ranger

As Wrencher point to, spent $10 and invest 60-90 minutes to get you clutch fluid pristinely clean. Be sure to do the pedal pushes, 20 fast ones, between each change. That gives the slave some serious agitation to help dislodge the accumulated goo. Once the fluid is returned to a pristine state, report back. May not work for you, but if it does, it's a cheap, easy path to a normal pedal. Then, a simple procedure for keeping it that way. Taking Care of Your Clutch


Ranger

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

Ranger thanks for the input. I have already flushed the master with fluid until the reservoir ran clear. I did this about 7 times and did the pedal pump. The first run to a high rpm gave me the same flat clutch as before. That's why I was wondering if the flexplate has something to do with it. It is basically made of tin and could flex under a high rpm to the point of the teeth seperating and might not return to position until the rpms have gone done.

Ranger

When you make a run through the gears and the pedal hang now, what color is the clutch fluid. If it contains any murkiness, e.g. is not crystal clear, then you've got more work to do to get the slave cleaned out.

If the fluid still crystal clear after the pedal hangs, then your issue is not degraded clutch fluid. But it's worth a little effort to eliminate the possibility of the fluid issue, because all other solutions are more intrusive and expensive.

Ranger

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

Yeah after the runs the fluid was clear again. Any other suggestions?

TheLS1Kid

iTrader: (12)

I have the same exact problem. I originally thought it was the master. I replaced that with no luck.

Don't waste time replacing one thing at a time.

Buy new hydraulics, disc, pressure plate, and flywheel.

I recommend the LS7 clutch.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

Well first off, M6 cars have a flywheel, not a flexplate. I also wonder if it is a heat problem because I am experiencing the same thing....only acts up when i get on it...normal driving is fine.

My pedal stayed on the floor for about 10 mins the other day. It would still disengage the clutch, but it had less than 1" of travel.

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

I feel dumb now. I meant the flywheel getting too hot and causing the teeth on it to seperate. Is the hydraulic system counted as the clutch assembly or is it seperate. I have a warranty for the transmission but not the clutch assembly. Anybody run an aftermarket flywheel with stock clutch? To think about it, this happened right after doing the drill mod. I read somewhere that the drill mod could cause problems with too much fluid passing through at one time and causing the pedal to hang up. So many problems.... if it is the clutch I think a Ram would be nice.

TheLS1Kid

iTrader: (12)

They hydraulic system is NOT counted as the clutch assembly.

I'm sure you could run an aftermarket flywheel with the stock clutch, as long as it is an LS1 aftermarket flywheel. I don't know why you would want to do that though.

My buddy has a RAM in his 408 Trans Am and he loves it, so I suppose a RAM would be a good choice.

Good luck.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

what teeth are you referring to? can you explain what you mean a in a little more detail? im sorta confused.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Ryan, the only teeth on a flywheel are the ring-gear teeth and they cannot seperate. I assume that you are making a reference to the diaphragm fingers that actuate to engage and release the clutch. I just wanted to make sure those reading understood what you were refering too. As a side note heat effecting the diaphragm is not common. The most likely cause of the described issue is a slave cylinder that is no longer functioning properly. It is certainly possible for bad fluid to lead to this as well but if the fluid has not clouded or darkened with use it is more likely a Slave problem. I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!!

BigKap94z

iTrader: (47)

My Flywheel looked exactly like what is described here when removed last week, symptoms were also just like what is being described. New clutch, and slave fixed the problem. Also the clutch removed was an LS6 clutch and new slave that had been in for approx. 5k miles, and started slipping in second gear burnouts/hard shifts at about 1k miles.....then the pedal issue arouse soon after.

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

So is there an aftermarket slave that can be purchased not from Chevy that is better? Also, is there a slave cleaner fluid or you have to flush the system over and over. My fluid is clear so maybe it's build up.

x99sscamarox

I have this same exact problem that 99sleeper is experiencing. I replaced the master and slave cylinder along with the fluids. My clutch will stick after driving it hard and the fluid will still be clear after doing it.