Clutch Problems pleasseee help :(
11-07-2007, 05:36 PM
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Clutch Problems pleasseee help :( Ok this problem is driving me insane and i seriously need help on it....i just had a brand new clutch flywheel and all the works put in along with a new slave cylinder and didnt touch the master because they said it was fine...anyways the clutch feels great and drives like a dream. but when it comes time to race i sail through 1st and 2nd fine then when 3rd or 4th comes i all of a sudden have a great lack of pressure in my clutch which isnt even enough to engage into gear. the line was bled and there was no air in it and everything was fine. clutch and flywheel n everything is totally healthy along with the slave and master. If you know exactly what the cause is and you can pinpoint it then please let me know because ive heard enough remedies and they're not doin so great so i figured the pros are here so please help me if you can. Thank you. ,Mike Black 2000 Ws6
11-07-2007, 05:50 PM
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1) Did you do the drill mod?
2) If you have longtubes, you might be cooking the fluid in the line and may want to wrap the line with heat-reflecting tape and zip-tie it away from the primaries.
3) How was the master cylinder certified to be "fine" (I've had them go bad and it's hard to tell the difference with a bad slave)?
2) If you have longtubes, you might be cooking the fluid in the line and may want to wrap the line with heat-reflecting tape and zip-tie it away from the primaries.
3) How was the master cylinder certified to be "fine" (I've had them go bad and it's hard to tell the difference with a bad slave)?
11-08-2007, 08:40 AM
#3
You would think the shifting problems would be in the lower gears rather than the higher ones as is your case. This sounds like more of a transmission problem not a clutch one. The clutch doesn't know what gear you're in or which one you want to select next. It just engages or disengages the transmission with/from the engine regardless of what the gear is.
11-08-2007, 11:45 AM
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im not sure but what i think im going to do is buy an aftermarket adjustable slave cylinder because the car went in the shop all yesterday and they said everything was fine and i asked what was the only component that they didnt replace and they sed the master cylinder because it was working fine. but i think im just gunna go with a new master cylinder and see where it goes from there
11-08-2007, 12:47 PM
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im not sure but what i think im going to do is buy an aftermarket adjustable slave cylinder because the car went in the shop all yesterday and they said everything was fine and i asked what was the only component that they didnt replace and they sed the master cylinder because it was working fine. but i think im just gunna go with a new master cylinder and see where it goes from there
just make the stock one adjustable or get a new one and make it adjustable
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11-08-2007, 02:06 PM
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You would think the shifting problems would be in the lower gears rather than the higher ones as is your case. This sounds like more of a transmission problem not a clutch one. The clutch doesn't know what gear you're in or which one you want to select next. It just engages or disengages the transmission with/from the engine regardless of what the gear is.
11-08-2007, 03:52 PM
#9
The temp of the fluid in a manual isn't nearly as important as it is in an auto. That's why autos have trans fluid coolers while manuals don't Compare the viscosity of the fluids between manual and auto. What about the shifter forks on 3/4 or their syncros. If the syncro is broken you'll never be able to select that gear.
11-08-2007, 05:28 PM
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The temp of the fluid in a manual isn't nearly as important as it is in an auto. That's why autos have trans fluid coolers while manuals don't Compare the viscosity of the fluids between manual and auto. What about the shifter forks on 3/4 or their syncros. If the syncro is broken you'll never be able to select that gear.
11-09-2007, 09:29 AM
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well the reason why im so confused is because the car drives like a dream its the ls7 zo6 clutch and its great when im drivin around every gear is just fine because its a brand new level 3 race tranny from texas speed but the second i start hittin gears by the time i get to 4th sometimes 3rd gear i have not even enough pressure in the clutch to shift so im forced to flowshift without the clutch. Which is why what the LS1 Kid said before about the fluid getting hot by that time that its just inefficient to create pressure is maybe the most possible scenario, also because when i was trying to diagnose it i noticed that it happens whenever i ride out a gear to a high rpm (not that i ever do exept for when im racing, i just figured id test it). ive heard some remedies about wrapping the line in a high-heat-resistant material to keep from frying the fluid but has anyone heard of this? Again i appreciate everyones input on the situation. -Mike
11-09-2007, 10:21 AM
#14
Gee sounds like a candidate for the drill mod to me.
The restrictor in the line prevents the fluid from traveling back to the master quickly. Shift 1-2 is fine because most of the time, you waste feathering the launch before the shift, 2-3 maybe 1/2 to 2/3 of the fluid returned but depending on the hydraulics may just be enough to get the clutch to disengage. This will BEAT on your syncros, in time will grind those gears. When you get to the 3/4 shift, you've got crap back in your master, the slave is still partially engaged causing you to ride the clutch, you push in on the master, but since there's nothing there and mostly in the slave, you feel nada on the pedal pressure compared to the previous gears.
Do this enough times and you will destroy the clutch and your syncros.
If heat was the issue, sitting in traffic, stop light to stop light, the pedal would change characteristics, sometimes soft, sometimes firm, on a hot day and bumper to bumper it'd be over. The clutch reservoir would change color or show some particulate as it boils the fluid.
The restrictor in the line prevents the fluid from traveling back to the master quickly. Shift 1-2 is fine because most of the time, you waste feathering the launch before the shift, 2-3 maybe 1/2 to 2/3 of the fluid returned but depending on the hydraulics may just be enough to get the clutch to disengage. This will BEAT on your syncros, in time will grind those gears. When you get to the 3/4 shift, you've got crap back in your master, the slave is still partially engaged causing you to ride the clutch, you push in on the master, but since there's nothing there and mostly in the slave, you feel nada on the pedal pressure compared to the previous gears.
Do this enough times and you will destroy the clutch and your syncros.
If heat was the issue, sitting in traffic, stop light to stop light, the pedal would change characteristics, sometimes soft, sometimes firm, on a hot day and bumper to bumper it'd be over. The clutch reservoir would change color or show some particulate as it boils the fluid.
11-09-2007, 01:58 PM
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ive definately heard about the rediculous restrictor that GM put in the master and its just another one of those things that GM made that make you say "wtf for?" the cars a beast so let it be a beast right? but anyways, slade i heard to do the drill mod and remove the restrictor i need to buy another master cylinder to put in its place. sounds a little bit ummm well...pointless to buy another? i read a 6 page step by step illustrated forum on how to install and uninstall the master so i have a good idea on how to do it, the only thing that im really curious about is, can i do the drill mod and just remove the restrictor then stitch up the wound and be done? or if there are further steps that have to be done can you fill me in on them so i can fix this nightmare and tear apart this rich boy with a mustang again lol (he thinks he'll take me with a 75 shot 
stupid mustang owners 
stupid mustang owners
11-09-2007, 02:51 PM
#16
Either way the old master is coming out, you could replace with a new one for piece of mind or if you think it's ok, just drill mod the old one and reinstall.
It's fairly straight forward, I was actually able to do this by myself with the tricky part getting the master back in with the u-bolt.
I actually got a newer 01-02 master, one of the things I liked about it was that they redesigned the locking mechanism for the hose to the slave. They added a lip on the quick disconnect release that REALLY helps in removing/installing it.
The only thing I would advise you to do is to gravity bleed the master while it's out. I kept pumping the master to squeeze fluid through it then did some funky tilting to release the air into the reservoir area. I refilled to the brim then hung it up overnight, in the morning, I found air back in the reservoir. Never hurts to be overly cautious about getting that air out.
It's fairly straight forward, I was actually able to do this by myself with the tricky part getting the master back in with the u-bolt.
I actually got a newer 01-02 master, one of the things I liked about it was that they redesigned the locking mechanism for the hose to the slave. They added a lip on the quick disconnect release that REALLY helps in removing/installing it.
The only thing I would advise you to do is to gravity bleed the master while it's out. I kept pumping the master to squeeze fluid through it then did some funky tilting to release the air into the reservoir area. I refilled to the brim then hung it up overnight, in the morning, I found air back in the reservoir. Never hurts to be overly cautious about getting that air out.
11-09-2007, 02:51 PM
#17
Is this restrictor one-way only in that it only restricts the fluid on engagement to prevent hard launches protecting the drivetrain? If so it isn't going to effect disengagement(shifting). The clutch master cylinder has a fluid resevoir(as does a brake master) so there is sufficient fluid in the resevoir to keep the master full of fluid as well as the hose between the master and slave full and the slave itself even when activated(clutch disengaged) full of fluid. Repeated quick shifting isn't going to run the resevoir dry. The restrictor being one-way changes the rate at which the fluid flows into and out of the master.
11-09-2007, 04:01 PM
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I've had the same problem you have for about a year.
I'm just tired of replacing **** so I'm just going to buy a whole new clutch assembly. I already have the drill mod so I know thats not my problem. I think its a bad pressure plate to be honest.
I recommend you to do the drill mod like stated above. That should fix your problem especially since you have a new clutch.
I'm just tired of replacing **** so I'm just going to buy a whole new clutch assembly. I already have the drill mod so I know thats not my problem. I think its a bad pressure plate to be honest.
I recommend you to do the drill mod like stated above. That should fix your problem especially since you have a new clutch.