what adjustable master cylinder should i get
04-07-2008, 07:43 PM
#1
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what adjustable master cylinder should i get i put a spec stage2 clutch in last fall and my pedal engagement is on the floor. i need to get it back up top so its user friendly. as soon as i start taking the pedal off the floor it takes off. its not fun to drive and can't shift fast either. did anyone else use a spec stage2 and have the problems?
what adjustable master should i go with?
what adjustable master should i go with?
04-07-2008, 11:10 PM
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yes you do have to use a shim with the spec clutch. i installed it behind the slave. it didn't help much though and now when i push the pedal in i have to have it all the way to the floor in order to shift. i was gonna attempt to bench bleed it in car and see where that gets me. i still have full travel of the clutch pedal but no engagement until down low
04-08-2008, 07:39 AM
#6
I had the same exact issue you did with the same exact clutch. Installed the shim, properly bled, installed the RAM adjustable master and the clutch was still dragging. It ruined my clutch. I then replaced nothing but the pressure plate, friction disc, and flywheel, and it now works perfectly (went with a Textralia).
The adjustable master works well for most people, but my issue was most likely with the clutch itself, so it didn't help me (although, it's nice to have it now).
The RAM is basically a stock OEM piece with an adjustable rod welded on. I recommend it since most clutch manufacturers seem to recommend the OEM master and nothing else.
Regarding your quesion about grinding: the "eye" on the rod end that the little stud slides through from the pedal itself is too wide on the RAM units, so you just need to grind it down to make it thinner (I would say less than an 1/8 of an inch or so, just a guess as I didn't measure when I did it). Otherwise, the stud doesn't push out the other side of the hole far enough and the retainer clip won't clip on to hold the rod to the pedal.
The adjustable master works well for most people, but my issue was most likely with the clutch itself, so it didn't help me (although, it's nice to have it now).
The RAM is basically a stock OEM piece with an adjustable rod welded on. I recommend it since most clutch manufacturers seem to recommend the OEM master and nothing else.
Regarding your quesion about grinding: the "eye" on the rod end that the little stud slides through from the pedal itself is too wide on the RAM units, so you just need to grind it down to make it thinner (I would say less than an 1/8 of an inch or so, just a guess as I didn't measure when I did it). Otherwise, the stud doesn't push out the other side of the hole far enough and the retainer clip won't clip on to hold the rod to the pedal.
04-08-2008, 09:55 AM
#7
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I had the same exact issue you did with the same exact clutch. Installed the shim, properly bled, installed the RAM adjustable master and the clutch was still dragging. It ruined my clutch. I then replaced nothing but the pressure plate, friction disc, and flywheel, and it now works perfectly (went with a Textralia).
The adjustable master works well for most people, but my issue was most likely with the clutch itself, so it didn't help me (although, it's nice to have it now).
The RAM is basically a stock OEM piece with an adjustable rod welded on. I recommend it since most clutch manufacturers seem to recommend the OEM master and nothing else.
Regarding your quesion about grinding: the "eye" on the rod end that the little stud slides through from the pedal itself is too wide on the RAM units, so you just need to grind it down to make it thinner (I would say less than an 1/8 of an inch or so, just a guess as I didn't measure when I did it). Otherwise, the stud doesn't push out the other side of the hole far enough and the retainer clip won't clip on to hold the rod to the pedal.
The adjustable master works well for most people, but my issue was most likely with the clutch itself, so it didn't help me (although, it's nice to have it now).
The RAM is basically a stock OEM piece with an adjustable rod welded on. I recommend it since most clutch manufacturers seem to recommend the OEM master and nothing else.
Regarding your quesion about grinding: the "eye" on the rod end that the little stud slides through from the pedal itself is too wide on the RAM units, so you just need to grind it down to make it thinner (I would say less than an 1/8 of an inch or so, just a guess as I didn't measure when I did it). Otherwise, the stud doesn't push out the other side of the hole far enough and the retainer clip won't clip on to hold the rod to the pedal.
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04-08-2008, 10:03 AM
#8
I would give Jeremy at Spec a call. If there are any possible solutions or troubleshooting methods, he will be the one that knows and can help you out. I would imagine if there is actually a problem with the clutch, he'll want you to pull it, take and send pictures, and then probably send the clutch itself to him. This is the process I've seen used before to troubleshoot Spec clutch issues. Good luck with it.
The worst part for me was that I really liked the feel of that clutch, the way it drove, and how it held the power. When I pulled it, it also seemed to be holding up very well wear-wise. I was more upset about that than the money, to be honest.
The worst part for me was that I really liked the feel of that clutch, the way it drove, and how it held the power. When I pulled it, it also seemed to be holding up very well wear-wise. I was more upset about that than the money, to be honest.
04-08-2008, 10:08 AM
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I would give Jeremy at Spec a call. If there are any possible solutions or troubleshooting methods, he will be the one that knows and can help you out. I would imagine if there is actually a problem with the clutch, he'll want you to pull it, take and send pictures, and then probably send the clutch itself to him. This is the process I've seen used before to troubleshoot Spec clutch issues. Good luck with it.
The worst part for me was that I really liked the feel of that clutch, the way it drove, and how it held the power. When I pulled it, it also seemed to be holding up very well wear-wise. I was more upset about that than the money, to be honest.
The worst part for me was that I really liked the feel of that clutch, the way it drove, and how it held the power. When I pulled it, it also seemed to be holding up very well wear-wise. I was more upset about that than the money, to be honest.
04-08-2008, 10:13 AM
#10
I've heard of people running two shims, but don't know the results. That's basically what the point of the adjustable master cylinder is: to move the engagement point of the pedal. I would give the adjustable master a shot. If your current master is fairly new, you can probably sell it and cover some of the cost anyways.
04-08-2008, 10:19 AM
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I've heard of people running two shims, but don't know the results. That's basically what the point of the adjustable master cylinder is: to move the engagement point of the pedal. I would give the adjustable master a shot. If your current master is fairly new, you can probably sell it and cover some of the cost anyways.
04-08-2008, 11:30 AM
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No, not really, I did have to grind down the side of the ball part of the rod end to make room for the clip that holds the rod to the clutch pedal, but this was in a C5. I'm sure they use the same rod end for the F-body version, I know the clutch pedal itself is different though.
04-08-2008, 11:39 AM
#13
No, not really, I did have to grind down the side of the ball part of the rod end to make room for the clip that holds the rod to the clutch pedal, but this was in a C5. I'm sure they use the same rod end for the F-body version, I know the clutch pedal itself is different though.
