can anyone PLEASE help me?
05-21-2008, 09:39 AM
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can anyone PLEASE help me? is there any one willing to help me bleed my damn clutch? im in chicago heights illinois,at my work(huge shop)??? if not help with advice will be cool, new clutch spec 3, new flywheel, slave. ive got a full throw of the clutch now but im guessing too much air still. not a nuff to push the clutch all the way in, it feels spongy?
05-21-2008, 12:24 PM
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Do you have someone that can work the pedal? If so, it's not too bad. Use a 1/4 inch drive breaker bar and an 11 mil socket on the bleeder.
This is from Textralia...
First off, clutch bleeding is a two man job. You need one person under the car, and one person in the car. Step one, feet of the pedal, and the Master cylinder topped off with fresh clean fluid. There is no sense in filling the system with dirty contaminated fluid. So, clean out the master cylinder and put in fresh fluid if you have not done so already.
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch, and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
This is from Textralia...
First off, clutch bleeding is a two man job. You need one person under the car, and one person in the car. Step one, feet of the pedal, and the Master cylinder topped off with fresh clean fluid. There is no sense in filling the system with dirty contaminated fluid. So, clean out the master cylinder and put in fresh fluid if you have not done so already.
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch, and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
05-21-2008, 01:00 PM
#4
Do you have someone that can work the pedal? If so, it's not too bad. Use a 1/4 inch drive breaker bar and an 11 mil socket on the bleeder.
This is from Textralia...
First off, clutch bleeding is a two man job. You need one person under the car, and one person in the car. Step one, feet of the pedal, and the Master cylinder topped off with fresh clean fluid. There is no sense in filling the system with dirty contaminated fluid. So, clean out the master cylinder and put in fresh fluid if you have not done so already.
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch, and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
This is from Textralia...
First off, clutch bleeding is a two man job. You need one person under the car, and one person in the car. Step one, feet of the pedal, and the Master cylinder topped off with fresh clean fluid. There is no sense in filling the system with dirty contaminated fluid. So, clean out the master cylinder and put in fresh fluid if you have not done so already.
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch, and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
That said, MAKE SURE you keep an eye on the reservoir fluid level and keep it topped off in between every 2-3 cracks of the bleeder or it will run dry and you will suck up air into the system. Good luck.
05-21-2008, 03:11 PM
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the vac thing would be great but i now have two persons.....n i still cant get this bi--h, im getting pretty pissed, later today ill try again but till than i need more dot 3....and a beer. how hard should a spec 3 feel?
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05-21-2008, 07:04 PM
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also ive tryed three different people too help? maybe im stupid...dunno but the new clutch works but the hydrolics feel like there air powered? and it engauges right off the floor! i just cant get it too bleed? i feel like taking a sledge to it
05-21-2008, 09:09 PM
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OK guys got the wacky vac...im going to do it first thing in the morning? if it works ANYONE in(chicago land)ever needs help pm me and id gladly take a ride to help lend a hand...
05-22-2008, 09:13 AM
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no im using a new gm stock fly. the only clutch part that im re using is the master cylinder...and i left it in and did not drain any fluid out. im going to try the miyt vac around noon soooo......well see
05-22-2008, 01:34 PM
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just an update, the mity vac works great but there has to be a poop load of air in it? the pedal got stiffer tho, but not much, the bubbles are steadly coming out and pressure is steady too.
05-23-2008, 09:35 PM
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you got it, im guessing the fluid was bi passing and just moving thru the master, once i finnaly took it down i pumped the fluid out of the master and it was black, nasty black, and after two quarts of fluid. after im done im going to do a huge wright up on everything that people like me need to know
05-23-2008, 10:09 PM
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Good luck with MC install. A long extension and a deep well 13mil makes life a little easier, but I'm old and don't like getting upside down under the dash. Also, if you can get someone inside the car to help line that thing up it will help too.
A write up on this stuff would be great...
A write up on this stuff would be great...