ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

ok i am so pissed at this point im about to set my car on fire? is a spec 3 clutch too much for a bolt on car? 358rwhp? THE PROBLEM...new EVERYTHING for the clutch...clutch of choice was a spec three, so i just installed it and i could not get the damn thing completely blead so i gave it to the shop. they said that the took the clutch out to see what was up??? and told me the clutch was bad (driven fcking 21 miles???) with no clutch...no way its bad!!! and now they want to install a center fart on my car for another 340 or something, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE help me out. im about to kill someone

P.S. its a nice shop but they know nothing about f-bodys or ls-anything, so no it was not speed inc., strait line, or the other in naperville...

please help

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

oh...did i mention im just about broke?

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

its all on the install...

i have the following..

SLP LT's, cats and Y
front brakes name unknown (and badly need replaced)
SLP LS6 intake
PnPed TB
SLP Lid with whatever filter came with it...(not paper)
SLP CAI
SLP MAF
!EGR and !AIR and afun wire mod
SFC and a STB
Magnaflow Catback
Spec 3
i did have 3:73's but just blew my 10 bolt,,(right after i installed my headers)
and some bald *** rear tires

so basicly,,im not even a full bolt on car yet, my Spec 3 works great, other than i have some chatter upon inital take off (i sux at driving stick, so i tend to slip it a bit) BUT it hooks like a dream, im very happy with my Spec 3, installed by Nate at Nasty performance (was in there b4 i bought it)

i am a firm believer (from ex) that folks that dont know much about the LS series, or even the F-bodys in general,usually do not give you the best service you could get. this is just my op, and im no expert by any means

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

yea i should of just did that from the start...good shop

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

oh man,,just wait till you gotta start shoppin for a new rear end......

also,,its not impossible to drive as a daily driver or in town (my car really only sees about 3000 miles a year, so im not the hardest on it either) but is more demanding than that of some of the other punier clutches out there. The Spec 3 is a kevlar puck so it will grab and mean it. Hope you get it worked out and get to enjoy it for what it really is.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

by dumb luck i have a newer stock rear from my last car so i can afford one break...but perfer not to...lol but i just want my car back its been like 3 weeks man im diein

the duke

iTrader: (7)

I just installed a spec 3 in my car this week and new slave and New ram adj master. the bleeding process took longer than the install. I would say that the shop has never bled a f-body. they are a biiiaaaccchhh. there is no way the clutch is bad. put the spec back in and take your time bleeding.

Oh and make sure you are doing the bleed procedure correct. or try a mighty vac I've herd good things about them.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

how much dot 3 did you go thru? i gave up after quart and a half, the guy said the clutch wore on one side only? i still thinkl hes an idiot! when i drove it there i got stopped maybe by 7 or 8 lights, out side that i shifted soft with out the clutch

the duke

iTrader: (7)

Iwent through just over two quarts i belive. all i know is its a pain and its took a lot of patiance.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

yea ill get my baby back and try it again, just im a loser owned by my gf so i get no help, might just let speed inc do it

LSWONGTO

iTrader: (3)

When I first got my car back I had to bleed the fluid a few times cause it was grabbin on the floor but now its fine (been a year ) and handles 457rwhp/429rwtq with ease. Good luck bro.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

thanks man i hope tomorrow they can get it back together than i can show them how many bubbles the mity vac will pull form the hydrolics. kinda sad that im paying them and telling them whats wrong....i mean the shop car they had was a 9 second chevelle??? i guess you REALLY need to kno about the f bods...

98 SNAKE EATER

When you say "new EVERYTHING for the clutch", did you also replace the hydraulics?

Did you install the supplied shim?


BTW, here's a video of my T/A which is practically stock (Catback/K&N/Spec3) scratchin 4th on DR's

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40PhUOUpXrg



Rick


98 Aztek T/A WS7 (FOR SALE!!)
70 Ram Air IV T/A
97 FZJ80 Locked
00 Lifted G16E
GhettoChopper
94 Mitsubishi MiniCab (SOLD!!)

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

sweet..

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

yea man absolutely everything master, slave, line, flywheele, clutch, both bearings, and shim ! everything, ill checkh out the vid later im on a pos work computer...

98 SNAKE EATER

OK when you say you "could not get the damn thing completely blead", what exactly did you mean (explain in detail)

Did it just bleed air?

Was the clutch not disengaging properly?

Hard to go into gear?

What method did you use for bleeding?

Are you sure you used the most updated GM hydraulics and not older off the shelf dealer parts (or even $h!ttier aftermarket hydraulics)?

Sorry to hit you with all the questions, but the more details we know about the install, the more helpful the response will be

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

these questions only help explain the prolem better...so thanks for asking...but first off i just got back from the shop and i myself checked out the clutch...its perfect, the flywheel is bad tho. not sfi app. so i have a sfi on the way. but there (clutch guy) is a fcking idiot. but here it go

i blead it by drip bleed first, i.e. open bleeder keep pedal pressed keep fill dot 3 with no chance of air getting in.

second two person, duh...like breaks

third, mity vac...but the air bubbles would not stop??? all the hydraulics are for a 2002 and from gm.

also i did the first gear test, rev in first with clutch in. it did role! and the clutch is still mushey, and engauged right off the floor

98 SNAKE EATER

Believe it or not, it's actually normal for it to move slightly when revving in gear, even with the clutch pedal fully depressed...

It has more to do with the internal rotating mass than the clutch assembly though...

Now if you do this test and it moves more than just slightly (and keeps going), then it would be a disengagement issue

As for the low pedal, mine initially had a low engagement, but went to about mid-pedal after a few short trips around the block and has stayed there eversince


I'm kinda confused on your flywheel issue though

Did you use a new stock unit or other? (I have a Spec Billet steel in mine)

How exactly is the flywheel bad? (did it get chewed up??)





Rick

V8Rumble

iTrader: (9)

Hey, don't feel alone - when I lived in Houston I took my car to a "stealership" because I couldn't figure out a problem that it had with running rough. As it turned out, neither could they, but they damn sure kept the $80 (or whatever it was) diagnostic charge...

I wound up figuring it out myself, but I learned that (99% of the time) I might as well just keep the money & do it myself...

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

thw fly was a new autozone stocker...i kno autozone ewww...but as they removed the new flywheel the the flywheele sprung off the right side as they took it off, but it was fine