Light weight clutch options for LS1/M3
08-25-2008, 12:03 PM
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Light weight clutch options for LS1/M3 Looking for a light weight clutch. I read the two other threads about this.
I'm building an E36 M3 with an LS1 which will be used for track days and some street driving. It should put down 400rwhp, weigh in right at 3000lbs.
I already have a Fidanza Al. flywheel, weighs about 12lbs
What's available and will the combination of Al. flywheel and Al. clutch make it undriveable on the street (not a daily driver)? I am guessing throttle response and acceleration will be improved and I won't care about low speed driveability.
I see Spec and Centerforce have lightweight options.
What about the durability of these clutches?
I posted this in the road race forum, but I don't think that sees a lot of traffic.
I'm building an E36 M3 with an LS1 which will be used for track days and some street driving. It should put down 400rwhp, weigh in right at 3000lbs.
I already have a Fidanza Al. flywheel, weighs about 12lbs
What's available and will the combination of Al. flywheel and Al. clutch make it undriveable on the street (not a daily driver)? I am guessing throttle response and acceleration will be improved and I won't care about low speed driveability.
I see Spec and Centerforce have lightweight options.
What about the durability of these clutches?
I posted this in the road race forum, but I don't think that sees a lot of traffic.
08-26-2008, 01:23 PM
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I can help ya with this. I have a Tilton 5.5" triple disc in my Camaro I've been runnin since last fall. I got tired of all the **** "bolt-in" clutches and figured out how to bolt a real clutch in it. I weighs 17 lbs flywheel and clutch ***.
08-26-2008, 04:53 PM
#4
From what I know of Tilton, they don't design street friendly clutches, and I can assure you that at 17 lbs, it was not designed to be driven on the street. There are a few light(er) clutches out there...my RPS assembly weighed in at 37 lbs, I think the Tex Exo-Skel weighs about the same, and there are other RPS models that weigh a little less.
Unfortunately, light-weight clutch setups don't come cheap. My RPS was $1200-ish.
Unfortunately, light-weight clutch setups don't come cheap. My RPS was $1200-ish.
08-26-2008, 05:54 PM
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depends on what you call street friendly. If you want a normal street friendly stock feeling clutch then no this aint for you. If you want a clutch that won't stick to the floor at high rpm's, makes your faster, lighter and is rebuildable so you don't have to pay $1200 for a new clutch (alot of aftermarket clutches cost that) every time ya need one. You can just replace the disk or the plates in this one. I have the sintered iron one. They also make composite style disks that could be more "streetable". My car is a dailydriver.
08-26-2008, 06:07 PM
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What about the spec and centerforce "lightweight" options?
Those are in the $500 range.
This car is not a full on race car yet and the fact that I'm still in the build stage for this car I have to keep a budget somewhat in mind. A $1200 clutch is not in the cards yet, maybe I'll step up to one these later.
Those are in the $500 range.
This car is not a full on race car yet and the fact that I'm still in the build stage for this car I have to keep a budget somewhat in mind. A $1200 clutch is not in the cards yet, maybe I'll step up to one these later.
08-27-2008, 05:34 AM
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If you are going to do track days (roadcourse stuff) those clutches will not allow you to shift at sustained high rpm's. Their pressure plates are'nt strong enough from my experiences. I never had a spec slip but what happens is at high rpm's the clutch release will get closer to the floor and not giveing the clutch peddal enough travel to release the disk, then it won't let you shift or shifting will be very notchy. Most people here usually start replacing their hydraulics then and start bleeding their clutch constantly and usally ends up with just a temparory fix at best. The hydraulics are not the problem most of the time.
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08-27-2008, 07:14 AM
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Crap, very good point, yea I experienced that some in the 99' TA I had. I did all the hydraulic stuff, drill mod, bleed, new master, new slave......and it still didn't shift perfect all the time. Why exactly does the pedal stick to the floor?
So how much $$ is one of the multi plate clutches like the tilton?
Can I use the Fidanza flywheel I have or do I need a new/different one to go with the clutch?
If I want to drive it on the street is it going to be a bitch? with on/off engagement/disengagement
If I can truely justify it I'll suck it up and spend the money so I won't be disappointed later by have a less than sufficient clutch set up.
So how much $$ is one of the multi plate clutches like the tilton?
Can I use the Fidanza flywheel I have or do I need a new/different one to go with the clutch?
If I want to drive it on the street is it going to be a bitch? with on/off engagement/disengagement
If I can truely justify it I'll suck it up and spend the money so I won't be disappointed later by have a less than sufficient clutch set up.
If you are going to do track days (roadcourse stuff) those clutches will not allow you to shift at sustained high rpm's. Their pressure plates are'nt strong enough from my experiences. I never had a spec slip but what happens is at high rpm's the clutch release will get closer to the floor and not giveing the clutch peddal enough travel to release the disk, then it won't let you shift or shifting will be very notchy. Most people here usually start replacing their hydraulics then and start bleeding their clutch constantly and usally ends up with just a temparory fix at best. The hydraulics are not the problem most of the time.
09-02-2008, 05:51 AM
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It's kind of a custom install. I don't us e the stock hydraulic release bearing anymore. I use one from Quarter master with an adapter I modified and I made a peddal stop or you'll push the thrust bearings out of your engine.. I think your project is cool 'cause I worked on Bmw for 15 years at ptg racing. I should be a good engine for that chassis.
07-03-2011, 04:56 PM
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Bringing this back up.
Have been running car with al fidanza and spec 3+ clutch.
Looking to rebuild engine and upgrade clutch to something more road race oriented...really don't care about streetability anymore.
Clutch suggestions? I want instant throttle response!
Have been running car with al fidanza and spec 3+ clutch.
Looking to rebuild engine and upgrade clutch to something more road race oriented...really don't care about streetability anymore.
Clutch suggestions? I want instant throttle response!
07-03-2011, 09:34 PM
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It revs like a ****. Really freed up the tq down low. I made to many changes to know what did what at the track. If you already have a lightened spec then you can take another 20# off for this setup....and the MOI is much better. A definet seat of the improvement and no more clutch issues.
07-05-2011, 07:13 AM
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I'll look up my parts list for you guys. Cost, well for me the clutch and discs was free. The hydrualic release bearing, adapter, and button for the clutch was about $400-500. You'll also need a auto flexplate and a little machining done to get -3 threads on your quick disconnect.
