best cam for a daily driven car
02-02-2009, 12:25 PM
#62
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This is a guy in our car club and the guy that tuned his car tuned mine. He has the same heads on his car I do and does not have an underdrive pulley. Of course gears make a difference to and I can not remember if he had 390's in it then. He put down 370 and with an under drive pulley and a little more tuning it is believed he would put down 375-380. Now with 243 heads there is no reason you can not put down another 15 hp. I am not saying every car is like this but it is possible.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...am-dynoed.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...am-dynoed.html
02-02-2009, 12:56 PM
#65
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I have seen 385-390. Depends on supporting mods. I agree with the guy above. You can get a cam from Patrick G. that sounds stock, probably drives close to stock and makes impressive power. I just didn't have the money to go that route.
02-02-2009, 02:37 PM
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i have the ls6 cam, no lope, smooth idle with my A4 600/700 rpm idle. negative is the dyno #s . i called lunati and should have listened to them. they recommended 565 lift, 221 dur on a 115 lsa. again i have an auto which i didnt want to lose any stock drivability. the web guys will say tr224 which i would not go lower than 114 lsa for a daily driver. just my 2 cents. good luck. cheers!
02-02-2009, 06:42 PM
#69
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GMPP Hot Cam : 219/228 @ .050 .525/.525 120 lobe centerline
GMPP ASA cam : 226/236 @ .050 .525/.525 110 lobe centerline
Just like anything else in the cam world, a bigger cam makes more power higher up in the rpm spectrum at the sacrifice of lower end power. It often isn't that much of a difference in the duration and lifts we're discussing. But if your gearing isn't set up for the raised powerband, you'll DEFINATELY notice it -tune or no tune. Its better if you're running a 6 speed because you can dictate shifting manually. The LS6 makes its power smoothly right out of idle. The Hot Cam pulls hard from about 2300 to 5600 or so. It's a little sad with a 6speed in 5th and 6th gear on the highway because you lose enough torque under 2000 to notice it. I agree with the rest of the guys that a good custom tune will "make a difference". I dialed as close as I could with the DiabloSport... and it is fairly limited.
I haven't tried the ASA..
02-03-2009, 03:15 PM
#70
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Man I honestly did not know this was such a huge topic with ls1's. I had a 92 gst before this, and the verdict was simple. Everyone seemed to agree comp 101100's were the best street cam. I never had to tune my car for them and according to comp the powerband was from 2500-6500 (the car had a redline of 7000). I ran stock springs/retainers.
I didn't realize so many people had a different idea of a street car. I drive my car over 120 miles a day, alot of in traffic. My car has 138k on it, a cam that makes power above its redline does not appeal to me, neither does a cam that makes the car sporratically die.
So from the majority view a custom grind, hot cam, or ls6 seem to be at the top of the list?
Also to the person that asked me why I do not go with nitrous, my answer is the cost. I was looking in the parts classifieds (already bought three things from here and only had the car a week) and nitrous is expensive. I have seem cams as cheap as 150 bucks, it just seemed illogical for me to have to spend at maximum 3x the cost of a cam and pay 50-60 bucks to get my bottle refilled.
I will eventually figure something out, most likely go with a custom grind since that is what everyone says. If these ls6's really are that cheap I might have to look into that. I figured it would be a good time to replace my oil pump and timing chain while I was at it.
I didn't realize so many people had a different idea of a street car. I drive my car over 120 miles a day, alot of in traffic. My car has 138k on it, a cam that makes power above its redline does not appeal to me, neither does a cam that makes the car sporratically die.
So from the majority view a custom grind, hot cam, or ls6 seem to be at the top of the list?
Also to the person that asked me why I do not go with nitrous, my answer is the cost. I was looking in the parts classifieds (already bought three things from here and only had the car a week) and nitrous is expensive. I have seem cams as cheap as 150 bucks, it just seemed illogical for me to have to spend at maximum 3x the cost of a cam and pay 50-60 bucks to get my bottle refilled.
I will eventually figure something out, most likely go with a custom grind since that is what everyone says. If these ls6's really are that cheap I might have to look into that. I figured it would be a good time to replace my oil pump and timing chain while I was at it.
02-03-2009, 03:51 PM
#71
Man I honestly did not know this was such a huge topic with ls1's. I had a 92 gst before this, and the verdict was simple. Everyone seemed to agree comp 101100's were the best street cam. I never had to tune my car for them and according to comp the powerband was from 2500-6500 (the car had a redline of 7000). I ran stock springs/retainers.
I didn't realize so many people had a different idea of a street car. I drive my car over 120 miles a day, alot of in traffic. My car has 138k on it, a cam that makes power above its redline does not appeal to me, neither does a cam that makes the car sporratically die.
So from the majority view a custom grind, hot cam, or ls6 seem to be at the top of the list?
Also to the person that asked me why I do not go with nitrous, my answer is the cost. I was looking in the parts classifieds (already bought three things from here and only had the car a week) and nitrous is expensive. I have seem cams as cheap as 150 bucks, it just seemed illogical for me to have to spend at maximum 3x the cost of a cam and pay 50-60 bucks to get my bottle refilled.
I will eventually figure something out, most likely go with a custom grind since that is what everyone says. If these ls6's really are that cheap I might have to look into that. I figured it would be a good time to replace my oil pump and timing chain while I was at it.
I didn't realize so many people had a different idea of a street car. I drive my car over 120 miles a day, alot of in traffic. My car has 138k on it, a cam that makes power above its redline does not appeal to me, neither does a cam that makes the car sporratically die.
So from the majority view a custom grind, hot cam, or ls6 seem to be at the top of the list?
Also to the person that asked me why I do not go with nitrous, my answer is the cost. I was looking in the parts classifieds (already bought three things from here and only had the car a week) and nitrous is expensive. I have seem cams as cheap as 150 bucks, it just seemed illogical for me to have to spend at maximum 3x the cost of a cam and pay 50-60 bucks to get my bottle refilled.
I will eventually figure something out, most likely go with a custom grind since that is what everyone says. If these ls6's really are that cheap I might have to look into that. I figured it would be a good time to replace my oil pump and timing chain while I was at it.
i DD an ms4, and it is fine.. i dont mind it.. some people say it is a track ONLY cam, i disagree... all depends on who you talk to, and what you are willing to sacrifice/deal with for more power.. i will sacrifice/deal with a LOT more than most people for more power..
you can pick up a nitrous kit for about 225-300$... install it yourself.. thats your nitrous..
cam-150 (and thats dirt dirt dirt cheap)
oil pump- 120
timing chain- i think they are about 50 IIRC
push rods- 100 you would be dumb not to do this
springs- 250 depending on what cam you go with
oil/antifreeze/spark plugs etc..- 100
02-03-2009, 09:11 PM
#72
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from the majority view? no the few people that have said their opinion in here... if it were me in your position i would be going for something like a 228r... i think its a waste for an ls6, or something close to it. a cam that sporadically dies, has nothing to do with the cam.. has to do with how good your tuner is.. my car NEVER dies, has nothing to do with the cam.. its all the tuner, some people have an ms4 and cant make it 10 miles without it stalling..
i DD an ms4, and it is fine.. i dont mind it.. some people say it is a track ONLY cam, i disagree... all depends on who you talk to, and what you are willing to sacrifice/deal with for more power.. i will sacrifice/deal with a LOT more than most people for more power..
you can pick up a nitrous kit for about 225-300$... install it yourself.. thats your nitrous..
cam-150 (and thats dirt dirt dirt cheap)
oil pump- 120
timing chain- i think they are about 50 IIRC
push rods- 100 you would be dumb not to do this
springs- 250 depending on what cam you go with
oil/antifreeze/spark plugs etc..- 100
i DD an ms4, and it is fine.. i dont mind it.. some people say it is a track ONLY cam, i disagree... all depends on who you talk to, and what you are willing to sacrifice/deal with for more power.. i will sacrifice/deal with a LOT more than most people for more power..
you can pick up a nitrous kit for about 225-300$... install it yourself.. thats your nitrous..
cam-150 (and thats dirt dirt dirt cheap)
oil pump- 120
timing chain- i think they are about 50 IIRC
push rods- 100 you would be dumb not to do this
springs- 250 depending on what cam you go with
oil/antifreeze/spark plugs etc..- 100
Your nitrous kit, if set up properly, will only activate when at full throttle. And then, only when powered up and the bottle opened. 98.9% of the time, the presence of the nitrous kit is transparent. Consider it a can of whoopass in your back pocket.
In balance to what Lemons12 just put on the table, one would have to consider that Pooker is commuting 120 miles a day in heavy traffic. Unless you have an extra car to play with, reliability has to come before sheer power production. I'd rather be down a few upper end horsepower than be on the side of the highway calling a tow truck over a TUNING issue. That would really **** me off.
If you are a fanatic like the rest of us, you'll probably go through a few cams before you settle on one you really like. Hell.. you'll probably go through a few ENGINES. hahaha
02-03-2009, 09:22 PM
#73
Most of this, I agree with. It wouldn't make any sense to upgrade your cam and NOT upgrade everything else adjacent to it.
Your nitrous kit, if set up properly, will only activate when at full throttle. And then, only when powered up and the bottle opened. 98.9% of the time, the presence of the nitrous kit is transparent. Consider it a can of whoopass in your back pocket.
In balance to what Lemons12 just put on the table, one would have to consider that Pooker is commuting 120 miles a day in heavy traffic. Unless you have an extra car to play with, reliability has to come before sheer power production. I'd rather be down a few upper end horsepower than be on the side of the highway calling a tow truck over a TUNING issue. That would really **** me off.
If you are a fanatic like the rest of us, you'll probably go through a few cams before you settle on one you really like. Hell.. you'll probably go through a few ENGINES. hahaha
Your nitrous kit, if set up properly, will only activate when at full throttle. And then, only when powered up and the bottle opened. 98.9% of the time, the presence of the nitrous kit is transparent. Consider it a can of whoopass in your back pocket.
In balance to what Lemons12 just put on the table, one would have to consider that Pooker is commuting 120 miles a day in heavy traffic. Unless you have an extra car to play with, reliability has to come before sheer power production. I'd rather be down a few upper end horsepower than be on the side of the highway calling a tow truck over a TUNING issue. That would really **** me off.
If you are a fanatic like the rest of us, you'll probably go through a few cams before you settle on one you really like. Hell.. you'll probably go through a few ENGINES. hahaha
i dont usually think of tuning as a problem.. i have an amazing tuner, car drives near stock like..
02-04-2009, 12:09 PM
#74
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if your worried about cost that worries me because you have to upgrade your springs with any significant change in cams. on the dyno i was dissapointed with the hp of the ls6 cam. i paid for installation. ps i've heard/ seen stock cam & stock springs top out/ bounce / float around 5800 rpm so you cant upgrade the cam without improving the springs. think of it as an insurance policy.
02-04-2009, 10:49 PM
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I do not mind changing springs and retainers, pushrods etc. I feel confident enough to do it, but how in the world am I supposed to get a spring compressor on the valve springs on the back of the engine? Jeez I can barely fit my hand back their. Will I have to drop the motor some or do they make a special valve spring compressor for the ls1?
02-04-2009, 11:18 PM
#76
I do not mind changing springs and retainers, pushrods etc. I feel confident enough to do it, but how in the world am I supposed to get a spring compressor on the valve springs on the back of the engine? Jeez I can barely fit my hand back their. Will I have to drop the motor some or do they make a special valve spring compressor for the ls1?
you do NOT have to drop he motor or anything like that..
02-05-2009, 09:44 PM
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Valve springs at the back, especially #8 cylinder is a B$TCH!!! I used a generic spring compressor that has a small twist handle and 2 clamps that look like "J's". Actually, I ended up making my own and it worked better. The other one worked good too, but took forever to tighten/loosen. Rent or borrow an air compressor. Any parts store has the adapters that screw into your spark plug hole. I had to use a swivel and a small hose extension with the adaptor in the plug holes for #5,6,7 and 8.
If you do a cam, dont forget the gaskets for the water pump, timing cover, front oil seal in the timing cover, crank bolt, push rods, etc. Good luck getting the crank bolt torqued to 250ft-lbs by yourself.
I have a TR224 from Texas Speed. I love it, but even with that small cam, I wish I would have put in a converter.
341 whp, 345 tq with Pace Setter coated LT's, full exhaust, cam, TSP hardened push rods, Comp 918 springs, SLP lid, Trans Go shift kit. You'd be up ~15hp with a manual trans.
Took me 3 days for everything. If you have a manual car, go with a 228 cam. If you have an auto, I would go with..
1. Converter (if auto) or Lingenfelter launch control for manual
#LNC-001
2. push rods, 918 springs & Comp or Yella Terra ADJUSTABLE 1.8/1.85 rockers
or if you want to swap a cam...
3. GMPP Hot cam.
All in this order. With a Yank/Precision 2800 (or launch control), exhaust and a tune, you'll run low 12's.
I'd recommend Pace Setter LT's and an exhaust with anything you do. The Pace Setters fit PERFECT. I only had a problem with the pass. side O2 sensor being close to my trans and was difficult to put in.
If you do a cam, dont forget the gaskets for the water pump, timing cover, front oil seal in the timing cover, crank bolt, push rods, etc. Good luck getting the crank bolt torqued to 250ft-lbs by yourself.
I have a TR224 from Texas Speed. I love it, but even with that small cam, I wish I would have put in a converter.
341 whp, 345 tq with Pace Setter coated LT's, full exhaust, cam, TSP hardened push rods, Comp 918 springs, SLP lid, Trans Go shift kit. You'd be up ~15hp with a manual trans.
Took me 3 days for everything. If you have a manual car, go with a 228 cam. If you have an auto, I would go with..
1. Converter (if auto) or Lingenfelter launch control for manual
#LNC-001
2. push rods, 918 springs & Comp or Yella Terra ADJUSTABLE 1.8/1.85 rockers
or if you want to swap a cam...
3. GMPP Hot cam.
All in this order. With a Yank/Precision 2800 (or launch control), exhaust and a tune, you'll run low 12's.
I'd recommend Pace Setter LT's and an exhaust with anything you do. The Pace Setters fit PERFECT. I only had a problem with the pass. side O2 sensor being close to my trans and was difficult to put in.
Last edited by sherm6998; 02-05-2009 at 09:58 PM.
02-05-2009, 10:49 PM
#78
Valve springs at the back, especially #8 cylinder is a B$TCH!!! I used a generic spring compressor that has a small twist handle and 2 clamps that look like "J's". Actually, I ended up making my own and it worked better. The other one worked good too, but took forever to tighten/loosen. Rent or borrow an air compressor. Any parts store has the adapters that screw into your spark plug hole. I had to use a swivel and a small hose extension with the adaptor in the plug holes for #5,6,7 and 8.
If you do a cam, dont forget the gaskets for the water pump, timing cover, front oil seal in the timing cover, crank bolt, push rods, etc. Good luck getting the crank bolt torqued to 250ft-lbs by yourself.
I have a TR224 from Texas Speed. I love it, but even with that small cam, I wish I would have put in a converter.
341 whp, 345 tq with Pace Setter coated LT's, full exhaust, cam, TSP hardened push rods, Comp 918 springs, SLP lid, Trans Go shift kit. You'd be up ~15hp with a manual trans.
Took me 3 days for everything. If you have a manual car, go with a 228 cam. If you have an auto, I would go with..
1. Converter (if auto) or Lingenfelter launch control for manual
#LNC-001
2. push rods, 918 springs & Comp or Yella Terra ADJUSTABLE 1.8/1.85 rockers
or if you want to swap a cam...
3. GMPP Hot cam.
All in this order. With a Yank/Precision 2800 (or launch control), exhaust and a tune, you'll run low 12's.
I'd recommend Pace Setter LT's and an exhaust with anything you do. The Pace Setters fit PERFECT. I only had a problem with the pass. side O2 sensor being close to my trans and was difficult to put in.
If you do a cam, dont forget the gaskets for the water pump, timing cover, front oil seal in the timing cover, crank bolt, push rods, etc. Good luck getting the crank bolt torqued to 250ft-lbs by yourself.
I have a TR224 from Texas Speed. I love it, but even with that small cam, I wish I would have put in a converter.
341 whp, 345 tq with Pace Setter coated LT's, full exhaust, cam, TSP hardened push rods, Comp 918 springs, SLP lid, Trans Go shift kit. You'd be up ~15hp with a manual trans.
Took me 3 days for everything. If you have a manual car, go with a 228 cam. If you have an auto, I would go with..
1. Converter (if auto) or Lingenfelter launch control for manual
#LNC-001
2. push rods, 918 springs & Comp or Yella Terra ADJUSTABLE 1.8/1.85 rockers
or if you want to swap a cam...
3. GMPP Hot cam.
All in this order. With a Yank/Precision 2800 (or launch control), exhaust and a tune, you'll run low 12's.
I'd recommend Pace Setter LT's and an exhaust with anything you do. The Pace Setters fit PERFECT. I only had a problem with the pass. side O2 sensor being close to my trans and was difficult to put in.
no need for a shift kit on a budget build..
no need for rockers..
exhaust i agree is a must..
02-05-2009, 11:06 PM
#79
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Actually, there are other stock idle cams out there. As mentioned above, our CheaTR series of cams offers stock like idle and drivability with a substantial increase in power with or without headers. The LS1 CheaTR spec's are: 214/230 .601"/.578" 117LSA. This cam would be great in any daily driver.
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
I am with him on this. Full bolt on cars have been around 400rwhp with the cheater. I ran this cam also awesome power and fast revving great nitrous cam also. Sounded stock also that's why I changed it wanted the lopey sound. I made 420rwhp and 415rwtq with this cam full bolt ons with some crappy ls6 heads. Another member of a local car club made 401rwhp with cam and bolt ons with this cam.
02-06-2009, 10:53 AM
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i think what everyone here is telling you is dont do this upgrade half A$$. please save your money until you can pick a good cam (probably $350) plus upgrade springs. new ls6 springs are only good to 570 lift, anything over you need better springs. just my 2 cents.